What to do with my FJ600

I'm a little depressed, my 84 FJ600 wont start anymore, even with starting fulid and cleaning the carbs out again, etc. so I checked the compression and found I only have 105 psi on all 4 cylinders. So I've lost 1/3 of the normal compression and thats likely the cause of my woe's. I love this bike, its a blast to ride but I only spent $300 on the bike 2 years ago and got it running trading up to it from my 81 XJ650 maxim because parts were more readily available from the dealer for the FJ. I apparently have worn rings as the compression jumped back up to 150 when I added oil to the cylinders and re-tested.

My coil for cylinders 1 and 4 only sparks intermittantly and I don't know if its going out or just has a bad connection/ground somewhere, as well as I get the low oil light on under hard acceleration when the oil level is in the middle of the sight window which a co-worker sates could be due to worn bearings allowing the oil to flow easier. My carb boots all have holes in the vacuum diaphrams as well so thats something else against it that would cost too much to replace.

So with the fact that this bike is so old and dealer parts like the pistons and valves aren't available anymore is it even worth the effort and $$$ to try to rebuild this bike? Should I just part the bike out or sell it complete just as parts? :?:

I had my XJ650 for 10 years and this FJ600 for 2 years now, so i really like these bikes but does it make sence to continue on with this bike, or should I get something else.

 

Have you ever checked the VALVE CLEARANCES?

How about put the valves in spec, and re-test?

The "low oil" light WILL come on during acceleration, especially if you're running with the oil in the middle of the window. You need to run it full, with just a bubble showing at the top.

-You're WAY jumping to conclusions. Everything you're describing (other than possibly worn rings) is easily repairable; bad grounds or poor wiring connections are not uncommon to the series. Carb parts can be had. VALVES can be had (I've got a whole drawer full of brand new 550 valves.)

-If you're looking for excuses to give it up, just give it up. Or FIX IT and ride it for a few more thousand miles. How many miles are on the bike, anyway?

This bike doesn't sound like a "lost cause" to me. Just another victim of neglected maintenance.

 

+1 on everything Fitz says! Also $300 really isn't much at all.

 

Just give it to me . Sounds like a lost cause.

 

The valves are all within spec, and were the first thing I checked. Which is why I checked the compression with and without oil next and how I found out the rings were bad. I only paid $300 for the bike 2 years ago which is why I consider if its even worth rebuilding, because there is no real value in the bike anyways.

I would much rather fix the bike and have something to ride because it will be at least 9+ months before I can even think about getting another bike due to the cost of putting my youngest thru preschool. The bike is very fun to ride and still had great power when the RPM's get up when i finally couldn't get it started again.

If the oil thing isn't and issue and is just typical for these bikes then that is one thing in the plus side of rebuilding. I assume there are aftermarket valves, pistons, and rings still being made even though Yamaha has quit supporting those parts for this bike. I will have to call my local bike machine shop and see what they can still get. I'm not trying to jump the gun on anything but trying to just not throw good money down an hole that will need rebuilding 6 months later down the road.

The bike is just approaching 25,000 miles.

 

If all your cylinders are close, do you trust your gauge? Did you do the compression test with the TCI disconnected and throttle fully open? Fully charged battery? I would expect a well worn engine to have quite a bit of variance. Also, how much oil did you put in them to test the compression? The volume at TDC is very small (600 cc displacement = 150 per cylinder, with CR of 10.0:1 means 16.7 mL at TDC), so if you use a tablespoon (15mL) or even a teaspoon of oil (5mL) you are significantly decreasing the volume in the cylinder and falsely increasing the compression number (I've seen people post results ove 200 psi when they put too much oil in the cylinder).

I'd say the oil test is most effective with you have at least one good cylinder. That way, when all of the cylinder compressions jump due to the oil, if a low cylinder ends up matching a good cylinder with oil, then it points to worn rings.

If the engine and carbs are in that bad of a shape, you can always look for a used engine with good compression to drop in, and a used set of carbs to pilfer parts from. I'd look for those before ordering any other parts.

 

Put it out on the side of the road and I'll come get it!!!!

 

I'd cut xjz33 a little slack. He just joined the forum, and might not know of all of the great resources that a forum like this one provides. If he did, he might have not given up the maxim for the fj.

I'm all for giving it to him straight about what needs to be done to get it back on the road and letting him decide if it's worth it. But asking him to abandon it so you can have a good deal (even jokingly) is a little cold.

How many people, come to this forum completely hopeless, but also completely unaware of the support for these bikes, only to jump in, use all the advice given, and end up with a capable bike, but also competent and confident enough to continue maintaining it themselves? I'm sure it's happened more than once, and I for one don't really sense a lack of interest on the OP's part to do what's necessary to make this bike road-worthy, only a lack of specific knowledge.

xjz33, do you have a service manual for your bike? What mechanic experience/tools to you have?

 

I'm with you ManBot. Any parts you will need are available, and can almost always be had much cheaper if you find and aquire them yourself. Best bets are forums such as this one, especially if they have an in house supplier like we do (XJ4Ever) and also online (ebay and moto suppliers).

+1 to all the advice about not being too hasty. Your compression numbers aren't low enough by themselves to keep the bike from running. It would be a little low on power but should fire right up at those levels. So something else is going on, and I'd bet it's your electrical issues which often can be easy and cheap to fix. If your rings turn out to be worn, and your comp #'s are right then you likely won't need new pistons or valves, prob just need to hone and replace the rings.

I don't agree that the FJ isnt worth much of anything. There aren't that many of them around and they are a great bike-I would gladly pay $1000 for one in road worthy shape. Don't give up on it yet. Let this site and the help you get be your guide.

 

If you look hard enough, there are free manuals on the net - of course I would never condone downloading one but you might just look to see if you approve of the content (Like I did!)

In the UK most XJ600's (As the Fj was known) are on about 50000 miles.
The worst thing is having to pay for a new monoshock!!

 

I appreciate the advice and all and no I'm not a complete novice. I have split the cases on my 88 XR600 and fixed the tranny (couple gears and a bent shift fork) and re-did the head and it runs great.

I did call my local bike machine shop and they tell me that cant get FJ600 specific valves or pistons but may be able to match dimensions if its a full restoration but otherwise said it wouldn't worth it. So at this point it appears to be sixes whether or not it makes sence to try rebuilding, even though I'd rather have it running than a pile in my garage.

I did like my maxim and it started every time hot or cold which was nice but the FJ is a much more fun bike for my tastes. I have been lurking around the site for a while but this is my first time posting.

 

Of course, we need to see a PICTURE!!

 

xjz33
Dont be so sure youcan't get parts UNITL you get ahold of Len at xj4ever and see what he can do. He is the parts gruru and can come up with stuff that you think is gone or NLA. email info@xj4ever.com and see what he comes up with. Bet you will be surprised.

MN

 

I actually don't seem to have a single picture of it myself, which seems surprising after 2 years. Friends have taken pictures of me riding it when we were all out on rides together but they never sent me a copy. I have all the bodywork removed right now as its pulled apart so it will have to wait.

I have old clymer manual that is very wrong about a lot of things as well as I have a Haynes manual on my computer which is much more helpful. I also will send in an email to xj4ever after I get the head off and take a look at what parts I might need to get it running again.

 

If you've split a case and put it all back together then your FJ issues won't be too hard for you. And the nice thing about your FJ motor is how easy it is to pull, mount it and go to town. I'm battling with a 2.0L toyota motor attached to a steel case 4-speed tranny and it's no picnic.

Your local shop is only going through standard parts channels, which is useless when it comes to anything previous 1989. Unless they are a classic specialist or a restoration shop they probably don't even know what's out there. Give up the local shop route. There are other ways to skin a cat.

from the hind legs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-1985-FJ6 ... 2d&vxp=mtr

from the snout:

http://www.pawpawcycle.com/fiche_sectio ... 84&fveh=70

Do check with XJ4Ever as well, he has more than he lists on his catalog here and you never know what he will have, plus you will never get burned by Len.

 

I still don't think there's anything seriously wrong with the motor.

Compression number that close to each other are one good sign; if they all match I'd be suspecting the test methodology or the gauge accuracy over the health of the motor. Unless it's been horribly abused, it doesn't have enough miles on it for it to be "evenly worn out."

It sound more to me like it needs to have some neglected maintenance caught up on, is all. That four-letter "W" word.