Where's the brake fluid fill on a 750 Seca

Is there a picture somewhere of how to check and fill brake fluid on an 82 Seca 750? I've seen how to replace the remote master with a handlebar unit, and I've seen the unit taken off the bike--at this point both those actions seem to be pretty sensible. What I haven't been able to find is where the fluid actualy goes in, or how to verify you've got the right amount.

 

Ah yes, the dreaded cable activated Seca master cylinder. What a pain.
It's just below the auxilary light mounted on the fork tubes. It's a poor design to say the least.
You may have to remove some parts to get at it (the headlight cowl and aux. light maybe? It's been awhile)
To open it, you need to remove the cover (have fun with that) and to fill it, find a long funnel and see if you can stab it into the opening to add fluid. It worked for me last time I flushed mine out. There's a float in there that activates the warning light on your dash (if you still have the original gauge package on your bike yet. Be careful not to over fill it and spill some on the fender (kinda eats paint!) Good luck!

 

Actually, there is a hex-drive (allen key) plastic (so be careful, it strips easy!) removable filler screw on the side of the reservoir which is designed to be used for filling the reservoir.........

 

Well I never saw a cover, and I've had 2 of the 750's
If you turn your handlebars left, then look at the frame's head tube, there's a plastic cap that takes an allen wrench.
To fill, I use a 20CC syringe until full, meaning you can see fluid.

To prime from empty, which I will be doing again soon, I rig a clear 3 foot tube up to a funnel - maintain fluid in the clear tube, and using the vacuum from an idling truck, I suck the air, then fluid from the bottom 4 bleeder nibs. There is no fighting, just alot of set-up with this method. (the fluid is caught in a jar that has 2 tubes glued to the lid) I have pictures, if needed.

And YES, have rags handy.

 

Servicing that Master may be an adventure.
Procure a long Phillips Screwdriver.
If you get one with Hex Flats at the base of the Handle, ... get it.

Get an Ear Washing Syringe at a Drug Store.
Several feet of Windshield Washer Hose of Vinyl Hose that you can slip on the Nose of the Syringe.

A long screwdriver that reaches the screws that has Hex Flats on at the base of the Handle for using a Wrench is a BIG PLUS for doing this job.

Set the Screwdriver in a Fastener.
Hold the Screwdriver down and apply initial undo torque.
(( Having the Undo Torque on a Wrench applied to the Screwdriver is HUGE.))
Whack the Wrench with a Hammer Handle and the fastener will loosen.

Remove the Cover.
Use the Syringe and Hose to EVACUATE the Reservoir.
Suck-out all the aged Brake Fluid.

Use the Hose to Spray Break Kleen into the Reservoir.
Attach the Hose to the Syringe and "Wash" the Reservoir using the Bubble Stringe and Brake Kleen like a Pressure Washer.

Evacuate Brake Kleen from MC
Shoot Clean Brake Kleen into MC, ... Evacuate.

Let MC reservoir dry.
Fill 3/4 Full with Fresh Brake Fluid from unopened can.
Bleed furthest Caliper using "One Man Bleeder" until Brake Fluid coming out, ... is as clean as Brake Fluid you put in.

EAR SYRINGE:

 

List of steps:
1. buy a 6 pack
2. turn handle bars left and laugh at silly master cylinder
3.use side snips, hammer, screw drivers, and 10 mm to take it off.
4. buy an LTZ 400 mc and stainless steel brake line
5. enjoy your awesome front brakes and easy accessibility.

#Winning

also, another handy tip... you can bleed your brakes by zip tying your brake level yo your handle bars and letting it sit over night
(requires another 6 pack)

worked fine for me front brakes work great...

inb4 it doesn't work

 

Sounds like a great idea overall, but a few exceptional points made right there.

 

ALL work/maintanace on any XJ requires a full day, perferably warm and sunny AND most impotantly a 24 of beer! Well in Canada anyway.

 

Don't hold yer breath

 

Thanks. I was able to confirm that the master had fluid, so I moved on to the bleeders. The left side brake bleeder apparently had air in the line--it hissed before fluid came out, then the lever firmed up. I'll do a proper job before I actually ride it, but that should make it a lot easier to slow down if I have to take it down ramps again.

 

"how to know if your seca750 has fluid in the reservoir"

well that's about the only idiot light that DOES work on my atari... just sayin

 

At the moment, my Seca has a battery-shaped box with screws on, rather than an actual battery that provides electricity. It appears that my atari works properly once I provide electrons from an external source--and it appears to be accurate, for when the bike is running it says everything but the battery is OK.

 

well yeah, cuz your battery fluid level sensor isn't plugged into anything :lol:

honestly don't trust any of it until you've confirmed it one way or the other. pretty cool when it works. No big deal when it doesn't. A real potential PitA if you are expecting one and get the other.