wierd ticking, knocking noise

When I start my bike (85 maxim 700) it makes a ticking noise, almost like the noise you hear on a bicycle at low speed when there is a stick in the spokes....kinda a metal on metal tick. any ideas?

 

An update. The noise is more of a clanking noise....at first I thought there was something loose on the bike, like a metal cover rattling against something else. That isn't the case. I checked oil, it is fine, and still it rattles. I guess rattle would be the best way to describe the noise. You can hear it very clearly when it is idling, and after running (at speed) the noise goes away. It will come back, if you stop the bike, or sometimes while accelerating. Any ideas? Help!

 

Guess!!!
Valves but now its clanking..thats worrysome
My .02

 

If it is valves, is that something I could learn to do, or take it in?

 

If that is indead the problem then it can be done with some time and experience.
Do you have mechanical knowledge?
Haynes manuals can show all parts, but if you search some of the forums there might be existing posts.

Someone needs to give their opinion on the possible prob, at least before you start tearing the engine apart.

Knowedge is power

 

How many miles on the maxim. Your cam chain tensioner might need to be manually adjusted. Or worst case scenario, cam chain replaced. The mileage should tell us which.

 

I have 17100 miles on it....was running fine until 2 days ago...just came up with that knocking out of the blue. Having read around, I am wondering about the possibility of bad gas...will try that cure today with a fresh tank, and some octane booster. What do you think?

I will try to isolate the location of the noise tonight, and let you all know more; as well as answer any more questions.

-tim

 

reset the cam chain tensioner. it is easy to do and will eliminate that possibility.

 

OK.

17,000 -- Possibly a loose Cam Chain ... if you have a Manual Adjuster I'd go there first.

Valves. (Some noises are GOOD)
Check the Valve Clearances. The Feeler Guage is the most simple to use of any hand tool.

U-Joint.
A bad U-Joint is the Ventriloquist of Automotive Technology.
The noise happens one place and you hear it all over the bike.
Do a little research on U-Joints and then check yours by putting the bike on the workstand ... selecting second gear ... rocking the rear wheel to and fro.
If it's a Johnny Be Goode and sounds like "Ringing a bell" ... you win this weeks most miserable job to do during riding season.
(It ain't that bad! But it still sucks to have to do one)

Something that is supposed to be tight ... ain't!
Always fun hunting for a loose something or other.
Probe the engine while its making the noise and pinpoint the prpoblem to someplace closer than: "On the bike"

Bad gas ... Pinging???
Possibly.
The easiest fix of them all.
$2.89 ... $2.99 ... $3.09 <~~ Guess which one you should try for a tank-full???

Be "Very Tank-full" if that's all there is too it!

 

The collars that hold the exhaust pipes to the head will make interesting noises if loose.

Seems like the nuts on those studs only exist in one of 2 states:

1) Siezed so tight that you will be spending $$$ with the machinist to get what's left of the studs out after you try to loosen them.

2) Laying on the shoulder of the freeway because if they ain't in state #1 they jump right off.

When you consider the RPMs we turn on these things it's amazing we aren't spewing fastners like a fountain when we go down the road.

 

So here is the update today:

Last night my brother and I searched for the root of the problem. Used the ol' fuel line as a stethascope trick, and narrowed the sound down to the valves (he thinks, maybe something else, just not sure.) I don't have that much mechanical experience on motorcycles, though I am great with directions and great tearing stuff apart and putting it together again. (That is why I am in engineering!) So he is suggesting for me to compression test it, which I will do after work today (bummer not riding today, perfect day here in Washington state, no rain, lots of sun.) What do y'all think?

Cam chain reset...How do I do that? Is it easy? Do I need an special tools?

Valve Clearances...Feeler Guage....what is it? How do I use it? What am I looking for?

Not bad gas, though...Put premium in with octane booster. More horseys, same sound.

Collars to the exaust pipes...that is what I was hoping it was....but I cannot get them to move at all....so no go on that.

What else?

 

An 85 has an automatic tensioner. Very easy.

1) Remove the crankcase cover (left side) and rotate the engine through 2 normal revolutions

2) Then quickly reverse direction and the tensioner should take up slack on the chain.

Basically you force the chain to slacken and the tensioner will extend to take make the chain tight again.

Done.

 

I understand how to rotate the engine through two revolutions (with the starter?) How do I go backwards?

 

On the 81 550, it is a manual tensioner. Grab a 12mm deep socket and a 10mm regular socket and get to work. You will also need a 6" (minimum) extension. The 12mm deep socket will take care of the lock nut and the 10mm one will loosen the bolt.

1) remove left side cover and rotate engine until the tick mark on the crank lines up with the C on the block.

2) Loosen cam tensioner locknut

3) loosen cam bolt

4) tighten bolt

5) tighten lock nut

6) re-install carbs, tank, and side cover.

Ride.

 

don't use the starter. Take the left side cover off (you will see the coil pick-ups under there). There is a square shaped part in the middle of the pick-up plate. You put a wrench on that and turn two revolutions clockwise by hand. Then reverse directions on the wrench. Do this by hand manually...No starter involved. You can make it turn easier by removing the plugs.

 

Okay, will do.

I still think it is the valves, though. The cam would cause it (in my understanding, anyways) to run bad in all cylinders; whereas I can definately hear one that has the noise.

 

yes, perhaps, however adjusting cam chain tension is much easier than opening the valve train up and checking clearances.

 

I figured that checking compression would be easier, too. I will do the cam adjustment, don't get me wrong.

What should my compression readings be?

 

What size spark plugs do I have? 14, 16 or 18mm? I am looking at compression testers, and am stuck....

 

I'm not sure on the XJ700 compression readings...my guess is higher than 100 is what you want, but don't quote me on that.

As for the size, I believe the 700 is 14mm.