Wiring help?

Hi,

I tool off the Atari unit and am going from a left and right to a single dash turn signal. Would I just simply splice the left and right together?

I also am using a brake master cylinder from a CBR600. It has two wire connections? Is this fluid level wires, or for a brake light?

Thanks!

 

Nah I rekon that will turn on both indicators, very confusing for cagers.

http://frankjohansson.com/stuff/xj550/X ... agram.html
take a look at the wiring for the turn switch on this diagram.

I think if you use the yellow/red wire for your dashboard instead, then you wont affect the actual turn signals, but your indicator light should light up when indicating (it might not "flash" tho, and I'm not convinced that the auto cancelling unit will turn it off.).

as for the brake master, I would expect it to be brake light.
The wiring diagram doesn't show fluid levels http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww12 ... iagram.jpg
are they Green with white and Green with yellow?

 

BleedingOxide - That is the best diagram I have ever seen! WOW!

I have a XJ750 though. Now sure how different that would be.

Can anyone tell me about that diode block? Can that be removed? Shortened?

Thanks!

 

You can just run both the left and right to a single dash indicator by adding a diode to each positive turn signal lead. The diodes will prevent any crossover voltage from leaking through to the other indicator.

 

Doesn't seem that all warning lights have a ground. Not the typical black wire at least.

 

If it has two terminals then one will be for power and the other for ground (The terminals are interchangeable on an incandescent lamp. An LED lamp will have the terminals marked). If there is only one terminal then the case serves as ground (this is not a common setup).

Simply removing the diode block will eliminate all of the safety circuits, and make the bike inoperable. It can be removed, but that requires a lot of time and effort, and you'll have a less-safe vehicle.

 

Maybe I can fit the diode block in the headlight case? The wires are just really long.

Can anyone tell me if the wire for the oil light would be brown/red?
Would I then just need a ground wire for the other side?

I think I almost had er' licked!

 

??

 

WOW IS RIGHT!!!!!!! It's interactive!! Who made that diagram?

Same question for my 81 650

 

I'm gonna make sure alll the electrical components are functioning just because that diagram is so amazing.

 

bigfitz will like this interactive...right up his alley...for a 550.....

Now where is the one for a Xj750 ?

 

Made by... Yep you guessed it: Frank Johansson!

Cool thing indeed, read more here:

http://www.frankjohansson.com/stuff/xj550/

 

Its great and all that you guys love the diagram, and so do I... but I still have the same questions...

"Maybe I can fit the diode block in the headlight case? The wires are just really long.

Can anyone tell me if the wire for the oil light would be brown/red?
Would I then just need a ground wire for the other side? "

Thanks to all!

 

That should be the template for every vehicular wiring diagram ever made.

 

The red/white wire is a live feed from a fuse that goes to the Oil level Light.
The black/red wire is the negative from the light that goes through the diode block to the oil level switch.

If theres enough oil, the negative cant ground so the light doesn't come on.

Dont see any brown/red wires on the diagram, must be PO.
If it runs to the Diode block (which I hide in my headlight bucket) then its the negative.

 

Ok...

I have the headlight hooked up according to the diagram, but no power!

Tail lights work, and brake lights work, but no headlight.

It should be large green, large yellow, and black.
Seems simple enough. Can someone help me figure out what might be wrong?

Thanks!

 

The headlight won't come on until the engine spins fast enough to start. The headlight relay is under the left side cover, just below the TCI. You can check for power to the relay, and for continuity between the headlight and the relay.

 

Well... that might explain things.
The tank is getting painted so it won't be running for awhile.

Their is 4 wires on the relay. I'm not sure which one to check or what it should read, much less the wire to check for continuity.

I'm not real good at this stuff obviously.

I'm not so sure I should just assume the headlight will work. It should though.


Also, the directionals do not flash. They just stay on. I haven't used the diodes yet. Is it safe to assume that is why?

 

Is the gauges and tail lights only go on when the bike is running too? Or just the headlight?

 

Just the headlight and the auxilary light. The gauge lamps, taillight, and turn indicators will all function before the engine starts.

The engine does not have to actually run for the headlight circuit to go live, it just needs to spin fast enough. You can spin the engine with the starter and the relay should close if it's working correctly.

The turn indicators just staying on could be from not using diodes with your single lamp, or it could be due to not having enough current draw on the signal relay. Typically not having the diodes installed will cause both sets of signals to flash.

Remind me what signal lamps you are using and what relay. Are you sticking with the factory system and just wiring in the new gauges with the single dash indicator?

 

On my bikes that have the latching relay, the engine has to actually fire before the headlight will come on. All it needs is a couple cyls to fire and that kicks the rpms up just enough for the light to come on.

Turn signals not flashing can indicate that your battery may be weak. They need to have enough juice going to them for the flasher to engage, too.

dave

 

Thank You k-moe! I'm at a loss here.

Everything I have is stock, relay and all.

The gauges are from a Yamaha Radian, it has a single turn lamp. They do work side to side, but just don't flash. I can hear it click on... then thats it.

Also... now my tail light and dash lights don't work. The dash lights, and license plate light run using a blue wire. It worked yesterday, so I thought maybe the bike needs to run to build up power... or something?

Brake light works though!

What would cause the blue wire to suddenly lose power, IDK?

Is there a hidden fuse maybe that is not in the fuse box?

Thanks a lot!!

 

Is the blue wire possibly a ignition switch issue?

Thanks!

 

It's possible that you could have a short or a disconnected wire in the headlight bucket......go in there and take a look.

All wires go to the the bucket eventually.......lol

dave

 

I no longer have a bucket. Just a wiring harness that leads under the tank, and the blue wire travels eventually to the rear license plate light that doesn't have power either.

 

You don't need diodes to make your indicators work properly with a single idiot light. The idiot light is simply connected between the left indicators, and the right indicators.

It works like this: When you turn on the left hand indicators, you are supplying 12 volts to both indicator bulbs, and to the idiot light. Those indicators bulbs are of course earthed to the earth wire. The idiot light bulb earths through the right hand indicator bulbs. It's like having a poor earth, so the bulb doesn't light to full brightness; it might be getting 11 volts. I expect the orange lens over it is made paler to compensate. The right hand indicator bulbs are getting perhaps 1 volt. That's not enough to make them emit light. It's a similar set up, of course, when using the right hand indicators.

 

Adding the diodes allows the easy retrofit of LED indicators (which will not work on a single indicator unless there are steering diodes installed). I suggested the diodes based on the assumption that the OP would be switching to LED indicators at some point down the road. Better to do the job now than to have to tear into it again later.

 

Ok... figured out the blue wire situation.
I forgot about the 5 amp fuse because I had that already taped up.
So it was that fuse.

What diode do I use? I bought a 12 Zoner Diode from Radio Shack. Is that the correct one?

I didn't solder it on yet, but I held it on by hand and it seemed to work, but it gets hot! Is the shrink tube good enough to cover it?

Thanks!!