Wiring question

I've got an 82 650 maxim that had a real rough condition wiring harness and I replaced it. I've got Haynes manual, I've got the color coded wiring diagram and key from another thread on here... And I've got a wires in my headlight housing that I don't know what to do with. I hate wiring anything- bike, car, house... I just want to hook this up and move on to other things I need to do to get it running.

1/2- green with yellow trace (1), blue (2) (same picture).
3- black with double bullet connector end, in line with odometer/speedometer connection
4- light brown/tan with double bullet connector, in line with indicator light panel connector.

I know some things werent on every model, and I may have just lost whatever they go to when taking it apart.

Any assistance is appreciated, TIA

 

Green Yellow (G/Y) front brake switch - Blue (L) double bullet spare

Black (B) front flasher lights or if hooked up looks like a spare double bullet black exists

Brown (Br) double bullet one goes to front brake - other half blank

 

@Rooster53 awesome thank you. That makes sense... I forgot about the switches on the brakes. I didn't have levers on bars, forgot about those wires. Brake, spare, spare, brake. Thanks!

 

Follow-up question-

I just finished putting new wiring harness in. I replaced fuse box with blade fuse box (proper solder/heat shrink wiring connection). I cleaned all ground contacts both frame and wire. With key in off position I connected battery and immediately blew my main fuse again.

Its not the rectifier. I already replaced the rectifier.

Just looking for confirmation or correction - my next step is to test all the relays, ignition coils, etc yes?

 

Well this sucks. Both ignition coils passed primary resistance test, 2.6ohm on each.

High tension lead resistance should be 11kohm+/- 20% according to Haynes... One of them is 36kohm, the other is open line. So... I guess they're toast.

Guessing this could be what was blowing my main fuse

 

A high resistance in the ignition coils will not blow a fuse - was that measurement with or without the caps?

As for the main fuse - are you feeling a bit of deja vu?

From - https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/650-main-fuse-blowing.130948/#post-668960

"I just swapped the stock fuse box for a blade fuse box, that was no issue. One thing I did find was when I went to do so, previous owner had bypassed fuses for main, ignition, and signal; one of the latter two was still fused with inline fuse though, not sure which. The other one, along with the main fuse, was bypassed and wires were directly spliced together. I corrected that, and hooked up with fuse box.

The moment I connect battery the main fuse blows. I started with 20A as the oem box listed. Pop. 25A, 30A also both popped.

I unhooked the rectifier and left the ignition switch connected, new 20A fuse, and connected battery. No pop."

I would try disconnecting the Rect/Reg again even though you have replaced it - from there try disconnecting ignition switch

Pictures of new fuse box and battery connections might help also

 

@Rooster53 it was with caps. The bodies of both ignition coils are split open too though. One of them had a full length split. Whether they're the problem or not I'm going to just replace them. I don't like the idea of them being cracked like that.

I thought I'd just bypass all my troubleshooting with the wiring harness for that main fuse rather than searching for fault and I'd just replace it. Rather than trying to locate, unwrap, repair I figured I'd just replace the whole shebang and avoid that hassle. I'm still back to troubleshooting though apparently.

Considering the guy I bought it from used a welder to try to jump it... I won't be surprised if I have to replace anything with a wire. And that's not right even; he didn't try to jump it, the battery was busted open, he tried to run it using a welder to show it wasn't seized up. Put a little gas in each cyl, screwed spark plugs back in and tried to fire it up with the welder as power source.

In his defense, it did burp and try to run, which was enough to convince me the engine wasn't seized up, since it was trying to turn over. I just didn't realize how much I was getting into. I still won't be surprised if all the relays and stuff are shot between the age, storage condition, and trying to run it with a welder as power supply.

 

Yes yes YES.

Identified the short.

This relay (I need to check manual, but I think it's the side stand safety relay...)

Pulled it, tested it (coil bad). Then when I was testing for current with one of my DMM... The console lit up. That's the first time that has happened yet.

Dropped a 20A fuse in, connected battery and it's all good! Need to replace this baby (and one of the other little metal ones too). Looks like I bought new wiring harness and rectifier for nothing hah. Oh well, now I have spares. Oh this makes my weekend. I'm going to inspect the rest of the wiring upstream of that relay too, might even just replace the switch and be done with it. But that's where it was happening. Rectifier appears to be involved too. So there's still more digging to do but I'm narrowing it down.

 

Interesting find to note- the gauge lights come on even when key is not even in the ignition.

 

Got ahead of myself. Hah. But I still am making progress.

-Rectifier connected blows, no matter which rectifier I use, no matter what else is connected (or disconnected)
-left control switch: the headlight connector doesn't cause failure, but if the main connector is plugged in the console lights turn on even when key is not inserted. I also can't get low beams to come on all, only high/off. The blinkers also aren't working at all.
-ignition tested correct for continuity when on and off, did not see issue there.
-blinker shutoff relay did not have an impact whether removed or not
-tci did not have impact, removed or not


So those two relays that I found that were shot, they need to be replaced too but they're not at fault. That I see. Could a shorted handlebar control be responsible? There's also a ground connection that's currently not connected on one end, the other is attached to case right next to the starter motor.

Could this be an alternator issue? I'd like to think I didn't buy a second bad rectifier, I really don't think I did, so I'm hoping to find the problem elsewhere.