wrinkled diaphragms

Hello guys let me start by saying I've been a long time lurker, and you've all helped me , immensely. but. i've tried searching everything under the book under my ideal circumstances and yet I'm inclined to still start another post, my first that is.

alright so I've a 1982 xj550 maxim with 45k miles and it's actually in pretty damn good shape. I'm in the process of cleaning the carbs and checking valves ect. the basics..

well, my diaphragms seem to be wrinkled, and my question is, beside the liquid nails for the pinholes, ect is there anyway to repair them without buying an entirely new diaphragm assembly. $250 bucks a pop is like 5xs what i paid for the bike. I've links of somebody cutting the slides ect and just buying new rubber. I'll refrain from posting links as I'm not sure if that violates the rules or such.

basically, I'm asking what are my options to repair the diaphragms . and ill post the links if im allowed to. basically, somebody cut the rings off the sleeve and shoved new rubber on. he never posted his results though so thats why im in limbo weather or not to do it myself.

thanks for any responses.

 

you could try this place
http://jbmindustries.com/index.html

 

Liquid Electrical Tape, not Liquid Nails. And Polock's link is the better option if you have the budget for it.

What do you mean by wrinkly? They are rolled in a somewhat accordion-like fashion so they can work as intended.

 

I'f theyre supposed to be accordion like then im less inclined to worry. I've just seen pics of, being , let me elaborate, ive seen pics of diaphragms being perfectly round, no wrinkles. I dont pretend to be an expert on carbs ect. i can upload pics of them if itll help. I rode the bike for 3 years and It ran great. so i thought. but the more i browse the more i question my bike. it never really had any power above 6.5k rpms. I had some serious sludge in the bowls, cleaned that out. i just dont want to put the carbs back together half assed and have to rip them off again.

EDIT: . i took all the rubber i saw out, and blasted the carbs with carb cleaner. I know it wasnt the best plan of action but price wise, I thought it was the best, as for the power above 6.5k I think it's the valves. im in the process of taking the head off as we "speak" right now

 

If you didn't break the rack the shaft seals are still located. Carb cleaner will ruin them. They should be replaced anyway.

Gary H.

 

no I took the rack entirely apart, and every single O-ring / gasket i took off. every piece of rubber i took off and set apart in a bin.

but, i will replace those little rings as im sure theyre not as expensive as the diaphragms.

 

Carb diaphrams can look like this


or like this



Or anywhere in-between, and still work correctly. You just don't want any holes or tears in them.

 

ahh second thought im not so sure. these diaphragms look worn as hell. acutally as i post, im almost embarrassed.

edit: the bike ran great, like super great for 3 years with these garbage parts in it.
2nd edit: every carb has the same looking diaphragm, all wrinkled ect..
3rd edit, and yes, the turd who owned it before me did infact pinch the diaphragm

 

If they aren't torn, are still supple, and don't have holes just use them as is. The wrinkles aren't a defect.

 

I'm estatic to hear that. valve clearences are up next i hope i can get this thing 100%
edit: it ran so good before this i had my clutch slipping, a crazy feeling knowing this old ass bike has so much power left in it.

 

Dids, that's what mine look like and they work fine.
i've thought about getting those new ones but changing the relationship between the diaphragm, spring and vacuum signal would change the midrange of the carb. if it ain't broke don't fix it

 

exactly my thoughts, the bike ran great for the few years I've had it. but when you rev it out above 7k ish it just feels like you're just wasting gas. Thats why I started tearing it down. Valves are up for today.

 

ta 7K you're in the main jet circuit of the carbs. take a close look at anything that has to do with that.
stock intake and exhaust?
spring for a new air filter maybe.
try this, after it's warmed up, at idle, give it some "choke" just till you feel it change a wee bit. now try that 7K again and see if it gets worse or better.
check your float levels