WTB: Diode block

I need the diode block for the sidestand saftey switch. Yamaha # 286883-001( I think), this is going in my V-Max but the diode is the same for most Maxims and Seca.
I Know the 81 - 82 550 Maxim and Seca
81 - 82 650 Maxim and Seca
85 - 86 Maxim and Maxim X
All use the same diode block
This part rarley gose bad but mine did, someone out there has a extra one floating around.

 

Shoot me a pm mlew, with a pic if possible. I might have that on my '81 550 parts bike.....never know.

 

Here is what it looks like, I have some from other bikes but the plug is different and the number of wires is different also.

 

Let me dig through my pile and I'll let you know! Or, you can come dig through my pile and help me work on the 550, lol, either way.

Mac

 

Well, I think I found one, but the male end shows some corrosion, and the sealed end shows a burnt spot on it possibly. It's yours though if you'd like to try it.....

 

Thats the right one but with that burnt spot its most likley bad. There are 3 diodes and a resistor in there so one on then has gotten hot. Keep it in a safe place and if you are ever near Raleigh I'll try it to see if it works.

 

I took it apart late last night to see what was wrong with it. Found one burnt diode and part of the PC board tracks was also burned. Picked up some new diodes at Radio Shack to replace them. 30 minutes later after repairs it works. Put it back in the original rubber casing with some black RTV then back on the bike. Neutral light now goes out and the side stand relay works.

 

Even better Mlew - now you need to do a complete write-up on the repair in XJ Chat so those that have the same problem can follow your lead.

 

I wanna know which diodes you used!

 

It isn't a critical digital circuit so the tolerances are proably pretty forgiving. Pretty much any 12 volt diode should work as long as it can handle whatever amps that circuit carries and you put it in the right orientation in the circuit. kind of like replacing capacitors. Get the right number of farads and then match with a cap of the same or greater voltage. in a pinch you might even e able to cheat on the farads if it is not a critical R/C timing circuit. The type of circuit will dictate the type of cap tantalum, disk, electrolitic, polyesterfilm, etc.

Same with transistors too actually. Just match the characteristics of the original or go better. I'm simplifying a little but, other than the CDI unit in these bikes I don't see anything that should not be rather forgiving unless you don't match or exceed the circuits amps/voltage.

We could probably reverse engineer much of the electronics in these bikes and produce replacment boards and/or kits, pretty inexpensively... again, my thing is mainly robotics - microprocessors, sensors and control circuits - analog to digital - but then other than the ignition all these other systems in the bike are sensors and control circuits - just not automated.

Could be a cool project to replicate the bikes electronics... I've got all the software tools for designing and laying out the boards. If i ever get around to finishing my cnc PCB milling machine I could even produce boards to order. If not they could be sent out to a PCB production plant. These days you ca pload a design and they ship you a finished product.

Not sure how much of a market for replacement boards there is.... just a thought.

 

Local Radio Shack
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062578
3A rectifier diodes, the original looked to be 1A. I had extra room so why not install ones with a little more ampacity. There is also a 8.2 Ohm resistor in there , about 1/8 watt.

 

I should have done that, it was easy to do. It was late in the evening when I did it , just did not cross my mind.