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xj 550 master cylinder

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by ting, Jun 1, 2008.

  1. ting

    ting New Member

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    hi i have an xj550 and the front brakes keep locking on,so i dismantled the master cylinder to give it a clean and when i rebuilt it the fluid does not want to come in to the break lines? also is their supposed to be two holes in the master cylinder because on mine their appears to be one hole and something that might be a hole but it is solid and i dont want to break it through, i have taken off the brake hose from the cylinder and the fluid still does not come when you pull in the break lever is it possible that this blocked hole is causing the problem ?this hole is situated closeset to the brake line .or is their a special way to bleed this system
     
  2. TheBostik

    TheBostik Member

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    You have to pull the brake lever, cover the bleed screw hole, then release the brake lever. You have to cover the hole to keep the fluid from going back out of the line.

    When it's all the way down into the caliper you'll know because when you push the lever it'll squirt out the bleed screw hole.



    If you bleed the brakes again after a ride it'll make sure there were no air bubbles trapped in the line. You'll have a rock solid brake.
     
  3. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    two holes, this is from a 750 but i would think its the same
     
  4. jswag5

    jswag5 Member

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    im having the same problem, tore down, cleaned, flushed refilled, still an issue, it cured the problem for about 2 weeks, but its back. Plus, does anyone know the minimum thickness for the front rotors, mine have been slightly warped from the lock issue, being forced to ride out of traffic with the brake locked, and where can i start to look for a place to regrind.


    When i rebled i had the same no fluid issue, i hooked a long CLEAR, emphasis CLEAR, hose up to the vaccum system on my car. CAUTION!!!!! if you use this method be prepared to pull the vacuum line off in a hurry if you get any brake fluid bubbles close to the car vacuum system.
     
  5. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Polock....great picture! That should be on a sticky somewhere.


    Disc Brake Rotors:


    br1) OEM and aftermarket front and rear disc brake DISC BRAKE ROTORS, brand new units exactly replace damaged or worn out originals.

    Original OEM units exactly replace your originals.

    High-performance aftermarket EBC Rotors not only fit correctly, but also feature a cross-drilled disc with over-lapping holes to prevent disc "ridging" as the pads and disc wears. This spiral "birds-wing" drilling pattern promotes maximum rotor cooling efficiency (not to mention cool looks!) as well as being significantly lighter than the stock rotors.....and on models that use an offset center hub, these floating-design (riveted hubs) provide significant weight savings over the stock rotors, helping to improve both the handling and braking characteristics of your bike. Their precision-ground HSPR low-carbon steel is basically fracture-proof.

    Rotors should ALWAYS be replaced in pairs, or adverse and dangerous braking response could result.

    And ALWAYS replace disc brake pads when installing new rotors!

    The minimum thickness for original rotors is as follows (these specifications do NOT apply to aftermarket rotors). The maximum allowable "runout" or warpage is 0.15mm high-to-low for all models, all rotors:

    4.5mm for all XJ550 models, all XJ650RJ Seca and XJ650 Turbo models, all XJ700 models, and all XJ750 models.


    NOTE: original rotors are next to impossible to "resurface" once they warp or get gouged deeply....they're made of a hardened steel material that typical brake re-surfacing machines simply cannot cut, at all. The only way to "re-surface" them is to use a flywheel grinding machine (what's called a blanchard grinder) and even with those, if your bike has a rotor which uses an offset center hub (which is basically all of them, except for XJ650 Turbo models, XJ700 models, and 900RK models), then you aren't going to be re-surfacing them......at least, "successfully re-surfacing" them, that is!



    Original Rotors:



    HCP745LH OEM front Disc Brake ROTOR, left side, fits all XJ750 Maxim and 750 Midnight Maxim models.
    $ 309.00

    HCP745RH OEM front Disc Brake ROTOR, right side, fits all XJ750 Maxim and 750 Midnight Maxim models.
    $ 339.00



    Aftermarket High-Performance Rotors:


    NOTE: all floating-hub design rotors come with a natural finish to the central hub section, which you may wish to paint black (or gold in the case of Midnight Maxim models) in order to duplicate the original color scheme of stock rotors.


    HCP4137 Aftermarket front Disc Brake ROTOR, left side, spiral drilled cooling holes with a fully-floating, riveted hub design, fits all XJ650RJ Seca models, and all XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models.
    $ 195.00


    HCP4138 Aftermarket front Disc Brake ROTOR, right side, spiral drilled cooling holes with a fully-floating, riveted hub design, fits all XJ650RJ Seca models, and all XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models.
    $ 195.00
     
  6. jswag5

    jswag5 Member

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    those are some hefty prices!
     

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