XJ 750 J front/rear wheel removal help

Okay, taking both wheels off the bike for tire change/brake check on this new-to-me bike.

Got the bike on centerstand (what a biyatch) and front stand on brake calipers (Pit Bull stand). Removed split pin and spindle nut. Released speedo box retaining nut and pulled speedo cable. Loosened fork pinch bolt on right hand side (none on left hand side, though Haynes XJ manual shows there is one?) and have pulled front mudguard retaining bolts and mudguard.

So I can't get the spindle out. First off, which way does it come out (I'm pulling on the right hand side that has the pass-through hole in the spindle) and how much pressure is needed? The pinch bolt is slack and I can turn the spindle about 10 degrees, but the speedo box is sticking to it (and staying within the index ridges on the left fork) and seemingly preventing it from coming out.

Am I doing something wrong? I'm going to start on the rear wheel or figure out what's wrong with my turn signals for the time being. The weather is going to be in the 60's the rest of the week here in Atlanta!

Thanks guys!

 

the side that has a cross hole in it. Stick an allen wrench of screw driver through it so you can wiggle and pull.
Same when ya get to the rear. Undo all the nut THEN undo the pinch bolt and out it comes, away from the nut end.

 

Alright, trying this but it still seems stuck tight. Pulling on the spindle and banging with a hammer a bit doesn't seem to budge it. Any suggestions? Like I said, it turns freely about 10 degrees but I'm wondering if it's somehow still stuck on the speedo box? I'm pretty new at this sort of thing.

Also, where do I get new split pins when I reassemble it?

 

Put my efforts on the rear wheel instead, got the spindle out fine but I think I forgot to disconnect the brake arm (got the torque arm though) so the wheel wouldn't come off. Perhaps I'm personally challenged but I don't really see how the thing comes off - there is no diagram in the manual and the only nut I see on the long thin arm doesn't seem to want to move at all.

Oh, and when the two plates around the drum brake were jostling a fine dust came out. Is this asbestos and do I need a mask to pull this? Does it make it funnier if I told you I am a cancer researcher?

 

Oh, and does it matter if the bike is parked in neutral or 1st when removing the rear wheel?

 

CENTER STAND USE

I read a good instructional on how to operate the center stand.
I was having trouble until I used their instruction.

Standing on the left side with one hand on the left hand grip and the right hand on the left side of the grab bar... apply pressure to the center stand foot peg while lifting with the right hand and pulling back with the left.

After the first few times the action will get way easy with little effort.

 

Yeah I was following the guide but it was still a pain and I needed a neighbor to assist. I'm a big guy but I think the problem is the surface on my driveway. Instead of planting the base of the centerstand to leverage on (like good blacktop would) it just digs a furrow into the cement and skids backwards. Maybe a hard surface of some sort laid below the stand would help, I'm not sure.

 

Unless you axle rods are rusted in place, mine came out with very little effort when I first got my ride last summer. Loosened everything (both sides) and inserted (oem) screw driver into the hole in the axle and wiggled/pulled them out.

I'm not sure how the center stand "digs into cement" unless it is crumbling, but look at my center stand link. I was clueless and tried it the first few times on grass (DOH!!).

 

It is very old cement and we've had some unusually frequent freezes and thaws, so it's really easy to scrape into it with a 500 pound bike. I did follow your link and it got me most of the way there. I suppose practice will help.

I put some WD40 on the front spindle hoping that's what it is. The threaded end was very rusted underneath the spindle nut. I'm thinking that is what is making it stick to the speedo box (which is supposed to stay on the front wheel, right?). Shouldn't the front spindle turn freely within the speedo box?

 

Hey guys, did I skip any steps in disassembling the front wheel? This thing is still stuck on here and I'm running out of ideas.

 

You said the axle is/was rusty. It's very possible that it's rusted solid into the spacer inside the wheel that sits between the bearings. It might also be rusted to the speedo drive but more likely the spacer tube.

DO NOT pound on it with a hammer, you may end up damaging or displacing a bearing.

WD40 is useless as a penetrant; and when nothing else works---

Get some Kroil: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ Best $12 you'll ever spend.

 

Thanks, I've used that before for cleaning silencers but I never thought of using it for the designed purpose, haha. I'll quit beating on it too.

 

WD40 is useless as a penetrant; and when nothing else works--[quote bigfitz]

It does have it's uses I thoght Fitz would be interested in # 5, Schooter #8 & Len #39...........

 

I use the Kroil also really good stuff spray it on and watch it creep into whatever you are working on

 

Use the "Hole" drilled into the end of the Axle.

Get a Hardened Bolt, some washers and a Nylock Hex Nut.
Bolt a short length of CHAIN (looped) on the end of the Axle.

Attach a Heavy Duty "Slugging Hammer" to the Chain.
Make sure the Pinch Bolts are loose.

Take a strain on the Axle with the Slugger.
Slide the Weight and give the Axle some Heavy Impact blows with the Slugger.

When the Axle comes out, ...
Shoe-shine Sand the rusted area back to a well finished bare metal shine.

Use an Anti-Seize Compound coating on the Axle when you replace it.

 

HEHE i just went threw this step like 4 weeks ago and let me tell you it was a pain in the BUTT front wheel was not as bad as the back my brakes were rusted stuck so be prepared to do alot of pownding with a hammer and WD-40

 

The Axle only needs to be "Broken-loose" and then it will come-out.
Breaking it loose ... is the trick.

A time-honored "Old School" trick usually works pretty good.

Take an extra-large, hardened Bolt to the Grinder and put a "Domed" end on it that will fit the Dimple on the end of the Axle.

Buy a Hardened Hex Nut to Thread half-way onto the end of the Axle.
This will protect the Threads and prevent the Axle from "Mushrooming".

With the Nut on the Axle half-way, ... place the Bolt's "Domed" end into the Dimple of the Axle.

Push the Bolt into the Axle.
Strike the Bolt with a smart blow from a 5-Pound Sledge Hammer.

This maneuver is best performed by two people.
One holds the Bolt (Wearing Gloves)
The other strikes the Bolt with the Hammer.

(Trying to do it alone is awkward and does not let you get a powerful stroke on the Head of the Bolt with the Heavy Hammer)

 

Close. I live in town now; but Schooter could use #5 as well as #8 I'm sure; and as for Len didn't you mean #36?

Personally, I'm very skeptical of #29; and considering how quickly it can gum up under certain conditions, #33 could prove interesting...

Good link tho, Wiz, a lot of those are for real; and it just serves to illustrate the whole point of the discussion: WD40 is NOT a penetrant, nor a good motorcycle cable lube.

 

Neither Pep Boys nor Home Depot had any Kroil, in fact no one had ever heard of it. I got some generic penetrating lubricant and went to town. It took me about half an hour of soaking the crevices, wiggling, soaking, wiggling, etc., but eventually I was able to break the rust seal between the speedo box and the spindle. Then it still wouldn't pull out (though it turned freely) and it took another long while and a little bit of hammering on the end to knock it free.

But I got the fricking wheels off, finally.

As for the rear wheel, the problem was that the brake adjustment nut was rusted on so damn tight that trying to take it off just torqued the entire brake arm like a Twizzler. Lots of lube and a fearless heart finally broke that free.

Rear brakes had plenty of wear left, no delamination, and plenty of asbestos dust.

Thanks guys!

 

Got some Dunlop GT501s set aside at the shop, get them put on the wheels in the morning and hopefully put everything back together tomorrow before I forget what I did in the first place.

 

Kroil isn't carried OTC many places, best way to get it is on-line: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

It broke my rusted-in fork caps loose after 9 months' worth of trying every other product out there...

Glad you were able to get the axle out.

 

No Fitz I meant 39 for Len, he has 3 boats, so I figured if he isn't shipping in illegals, he must be fishing.....

 

Don't fail to prep and do maintenance.

Sand the Axle free of oxidation and use Finishing Paper to shine a nice smooth Bare Metal Finish on the Axle.

Grease the Final Drive Receiving Splines with some Waterproof Synthetic Grease.

Remove the Rod for the Brake Pad Spreading Cam.
Clean and Lube the Hour-Glass with Waterproof Grease.

If those Brake Shoes are "Original" ... Change them.

Renew the Spring on the Adjuster.
You can get a New Spring at a hardware store.
Run a Bole up the center to be able to Grind it too the right length.

 

Alright, I'll see how much of that I can reasonably get done. Definitely hear you on the axles. Receiving splines had plenty of grease but I'm sure more can't hurt. I don't think the brake shoes are anywhere near original, they have very little wear for a 31k mile bike. Just dusty.

Question - where should I get new split pins? Is that just a generic hardware store item?

 

If you mean cotter pins for the axle nuts, by all means. NEVER re-use them.

I would recommend auto parts rather than hardware store, you need automotive grade.

As for the brake shoes, dig the tip of a box knife blade into the corner of the lining where it meets the shoe and make sure the bonding is still strong; if you can pop a lining loose then it was going to fail.

 

What's the harm in reusing a Cotter Pin?

Mechanics all-over the world replace the Cotter Pin in Castle Nuts on Axle and Hubs.

If the thing is "Nasty" and looks like a Pretzel, ... sure. A new one looks nice and pretty.

You should see some of the things I have encountered over the years.
Nails, coat hanger, large pop rivets, small machine screws nutted and washered, safety wire, and things that look like safety pins.

 

Because a recycled cotter pin cannot be trusted is why.

It's a freaking DIME, if that. No reason in the world not to keep a DRAWER FULL if you work on bikes or cars with any regularity.

A recycled cotter pin is no better than a bent nail or any other bad choice.

 

I concur, Fitz, I fit new so people can see I've been there.

 

Well. ... Fellows?

If I had a DIME for every Cotter Pin reused on Axles and Hubs, in the Automotive Industry in the past 50-years, ...

I could go buy the GoldWing I've always wanted.

 

Why would you want a Goldwing ?

 

'Cause I'm an Old, Bald, XXXL, Guy that would rather be a Young, Long-haired, skinny-guy on a MV Agusta.

But my large self would look silly as hell on a MV-F4!!!

 

I wouldn't worry about it, Rick, you should see whats riding around this 'berb.

 

There ya go. CARS again. We were talking motorcycles.

First off, just because a lot of people do it doesn't make it a good practice. I'm certainly not going to recommend to a newbie mechanic to re-use cotter pins.

Further, when a car breaks, you generally just coast to the side of the road, bum out, and get on the cell phone.

Mechanical failures on a motorcycle can be a bit more disastrous.

One last point: With my helmet on, nobody can SEE that I have (a full head of, sorry) grey hair; how can they tell you're bald, Rick?

 

It's the writng on the back of his jacket, that says 'bald old fat guy inside'
Just joshing Rick, & if you changed those cotterpins nobody would know you're bald.

 

Here's me with what used to be a '83 Midnight Maxim.

Rick Massey with a restored Yamaha 750 Maxim at the Scenic Park half-way over the famous Kancamagus Highway.

 

Can I reuse old cotter pins when I install some pods?

 

I would say it's obligatory.