XJ Gas Tank Fuel Filler Plug

These are designed to help with the restoration and refinishing of fuel tanks. Specifically, when you want to keep something in or out, and don't want to use the fuel cap. For painting, it is a lot easier than masking.

Also included is a version with a port through it so that it if you are doing an interior-only electrolysis process you can use it as an insulator for the anode.

They fit nice and snug, but if you want to make a really good seal you will probably need some sort of gasket material.

Bonehead warning: DO NOT use as a gas cap while operating the bike or with any fuel in the tank. This is designed for plugging the fuel filler hole while working on the gas tank only. If you try to use this while running or operating the bike with fuel in the tank, very bad things could happen. You've been warned.

Designed using FreeCAD. Printed on FlashForge Creator Pro. File types included in zip: FCStd, stl, x3d.

The standard plug:


The anode insulator version:


Side by side:


THE FILES ARE PROVIDED “AS IS”, WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT.

 

One suggestion for the electrolysis version. A small pilot hole instead of the large hole. This way the hole can be drilled out to the size of the used rod so that the snug fit will prevent rod contact with the inside bottom of the tank and keep it vertical. A small breather hole can then be drilled, or printed off to the side for ventilation. Just an idea.

 

Sure, the beautiful thing here, in theory, is that anybody can take the design and do anything they want with it.

The prints I did have a honeycomb-like internal structure, so drilling them out might be kind of clunky. Could be done, but just not like drilling through a solid - and the inside of the holes would be rough. But I suppose who cares if you're just using it to hold an anode??

Another option would be to print it with solid fill (maybe with a pilot hole or two) and then start drilling. Then you wouldn't have to deal with the honeycomb interior. But of course would take more time and material to print.

The most elegant solution would be, of course, to modify the CAD model and rebuild. If you could specify the dimensions, shape, and positions of the holes, it would literally take about three minutes to add them to the CAD model.

 

Here's a version I made using @Huntchuks idea. I made a slot through just big enough to fit the stuff I use as an anode along with a vent hole. One improvement I would consider now is making the hole accept a tube somehow. It is currently just puking rusty goo all over the place. Would be nice if it used a hose to puke it in a bucket or something other than just all over the floor.

(FYI - the clamp visible in the photo is just to hold the anode, it is not the power source)



And in other news, the computer ATX power supply-powered electrolysis machine is working wonderfully!

 

i use an expansion plug I got at the parts store tight fit

 

That is what to use if you insert the anode through the petcock hole with the tank upside down. I alternated using the filler hole and petcock hole, to de-rust the entire tank because I didn't fill the tank to the brim. Same with acid. Half the time tank is right side up and half the time upside down.

 

Thanks so much for this and the other gas tanks files. Will be Evapo-Rusting my 750 Seca tank and these will be handy.

 

A #9 rubber stopper also fits perfectly, at least with an XJ650 Maxim.