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XJ motor switch out

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Dstrong77, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    IMHO a used engine is going to need to be split too. Replace the 30+ year-old alternator chain guide, and rebuild the starter clutch before either give any trouble.
     
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  2. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    I have the shifter cover off it appears the stopper is not operating properly it's somewhat shifts up but is really hard to shifts down. The spring on the rear shaft with the loop is not connected and spins around easily. I have inspected the hole above shift drum and there is no plastic impeading movement. Will post video and pics
     
  3. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    I have a video i will post on YouTube and het link
     

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  4. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    Any suggestions?
     
  5. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    Looks like a broken torsion spring!
     

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  6. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The gears have to be moving in order to shift (until all the gears line up). There are no synchronizers.

    The little roller is supposed to be touching the shift drum, but is not.
    That broken spring will cause the problem you have.
    Chacal has replacements in stock. Start a conversation with him and you can be riding before next weekend.
     
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  7. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    Well Im bout as happy as I could be. I think ill get replacement friction plates since the oil is out.
    You guys have been so helpful! I am so thankful! I will reach out to Chacal. Thanks again everyone
     
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  8. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    Ok I have my spring installed and the arm is working properly. I am attaching a picture of the position of the shift drum in the position that I believe is neutral. I cannot find a diagram that shows what position it should be in. Once the spring is installed I have the same issue that I have had since I got the bike. It is hard to go into gear. I believe since it was hard to go in gear for so long I had been stomping up and down on the control that is how I ended up breaking the spring. When I shift to first I can usually get it to go with a few clicks. Bringing it up to second is a challenge because I feel it click as I up shift however it doesn't actually engage unless I keep trying then eventually it will. Which makes me think its internal again. Either shift forks or worn dogs. I have not reassembled it yet as I am interested to see if my shift drum is in the correct position for neutral right now (pic) Would anyone be able to tell from this pic if the shift drum is in the correct position for netural. I will take another video tonight to show whats going on. The outside of the shift drum where the stopper pushes against has some larger rounded tabs and then 2 smaller rounded tabs. I believe the space between the smaller tabs is neutral, The wheel spins freely there. I am able to shift down and the gear engages from that neutral position however getting up past that neutral position to the gear above is where my trouble lies. Any suggestions?
     

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  9. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure someone who is more familiar can say for certain, but I believe that is neutral. Just looking at how mine was from when I was tearing my engine down it appears correct. Are you able to spin the transmission in between shifts? It needs to advance a little between changes to allow the roller and selector to engage before advancing to another gear. Your grooves there do look a little worn, but I don't think it would cause too much, if any, trouble.
     

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  10. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    yes it does move between shifts. Ill get the video up tonight to show exactly whats up. From your pic would you be in 1st gear there?
     
  11. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    I didn't take note to be sure, but I believe that it is in first gear in the picture.
     
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  12. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Correct.

    Make sure that you are moving the rear wheel a bit when you are trying to shift. As I mentioned before the gears do not have synchronizers, and will not shift unless they are moving so they can line up properly. Once they are all lined up the transmission will shift freely without needing to move the rear wheel.

    I'm looking forward to the video so we can see what's going on. Get as close in as you can so we can see what the shift drum and pawl do as you move the lever.
     
  13. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    Once I put everything back together and tried shifting with the forward controls I wasn't getting enough torque on the shifting lever with my forward controls I was able to shift fairly easily without the linkage just using my hand. i'm reassembling now, putting oil in it and tightening those linkages as far as possible.
    Now I believe loose linkages on the forward controls cause me to overwork that torsion spring on the pawl stop. I do not have the original shifting lever otherwise I would just put that on and test it on the road but I feel pretty good about it now and will report back tomorrow. And yes checking the linkages was the first thing suggested when I came to this forum with my problem. I tightened all the screws originally but I did not extend the adjustable linkage to make it tighter I have done that now and will see how it goes. If not I'll pull the cover off and get video. If you look at the original video I posted you might be able to tell how much play was in the forward control
     
  14. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    I just got back. It was absolutely the linkage. Bike shifts like a dream now. Thank you for all your help. I truly appreciate it!
     
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  15. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The linkage wouldn't have caused the spring to break. The shifing mechanism has ravel limits built into it. The spring broke because it was old and had been through all of the cycles that it could take.
     
  16. Dstrong77

    Dstrong77 Member

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    True but since there was so much play in the linkage it caused me to stomp on the controls to get it to engage the gears. Which added to the old worn spring finally breaking. I think had i tightened the linkage when i bought the bike i could of prolonged the springs life. Maybe not.
    Now everything is tight and i can shift with much less force. I am back in love with this bike. On a seperate note. I rebuilt the carburetor about a month ago. I changed out one of the Jets and the jet that was in the rebuild kit had a different number and then the one that was in my carburetor. I believe since I have a 4 into 1 exhaust that it was jetted. Now I have backfire when letting off the throttle in low gears. I think I'm going to need to open up the carbs and stick the other jet in. There was no backfiring before I rebuilt it. At that point I didn't know different exhaust would require new jets that werent in the kit. Lesson learned
     
  17. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Ya, rejetting is needed. You are lean on the pilot circuit.
     
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