xj550 Clutch Slippage

Last week I noticed my clutch had started to slip if i were trying to accelerate or lets say going up a hill. The RPM's would climb and the power to the wheel went away.
Back off the throttle and the clutch would then catch in again.

I put her on the center stand last night thinking I would drain the oil and remove the clutch cover to then inspect.

When I drained the oil, not much came out... prob less than a quart!
I had checked the window just the previous day and it looked like an acceptable amount.

1981 xj550, 11,000 miles, last oil change approx 3k miles ago last summer
Obviously if the wet clutch were no longer wet, that might explain the slippage.

I am trying to avoid actually cracking the case open if I dont have to.

Ideas?

My gut says that even if this were the case, Ive burnt the clutch up now, or just slicked it up, wither way if its been slipping cause it was dry, then I am still gonna need to crack her open to clean the discs before I put new oil in... then at least I know what they look like and will know if I really need to replace the discs/springs.

Sounds like I already have my answer

 

Yes, it does.

Need to check the oil before and after every ride.

The clutch may be all done even though not worn out. Clutches react to ageing the same way brake shoes and pads do, they dry out and get all hard and crumbly.

BE CAREFUL take notes pay attention taking the clutch apart. 550 clutches have some intracacies the others don't; assymetrical plain plates and a "clutch boss spring" located inside one of the friction plates. Let me know if you get it apart and then realize you didn't take good enough notes.

 

Ok, I got new friction plates and scotch brighted the steel ones.
Using BigFitz's awesome diagram I started to put it back together...

This is where I am at and confused about.
I put all the plates back in per the diagram which shows 6 plain plates, I have 7.
This put the last one at the 2oclock position where your pic shows a 6th at 12oclock, not showing a 7th.
Hmmm...

Ok, i moved on... putting the (dont know what to call it... the inner cover with pull rod and bearings over the assembly and then inserted the 5 springs/washers and screws.
I tightened the screws down.

At this point I thought I was all ready to put the final outer clutch cover and gasket on.

I noticed that all the plates were sittin there all loose.
Touch the pull rod and it also is all loose, I can push it in a bit, its just flopping around in the hole.
Sure ok once the cover goes on and the pull rod is attached to the "rod" that is mounted in the outer cover and that is adjusted properly, this may keep the pull rod from being able to go in as that is not what its supposed to do anyways. Out not in

Follow me here?


Dave

 

You need all 7 plain plates, the diagram (from the factory book) just stops giving you instructions after the 6th. I put it 90* from the 6th one myself.

The friction plate with the bigger ID and the goofy spring ring goes in the 3rd position in from the outside. You should have 7 "normal" friction plates and the one special one for a total of 8.

First thing in is a friction plate, then a plain plate, then a friction plate, etc. The last piece you put in before the pressure plate will be a friction plate.

Be sure you line up the dot on the pressure plate with the dot cast into the edge of the clutch basket.

The pull rod will be a little "floppy" but the stack with the pressure plate installed should be tight.

 

After replacing the clutch in my 550 I have a few questions myself.

Is putting the steel clutch plates in at 90 degree angles necessary/ the best way to balance the basket?

Does the primary gear bolt need to be tight before putting the basket on? I can't find a torque spec.

Do I need a replacement gasket for this? Can I just use oil resistant gasket silicone?

Thanks,

Mstubbs

 

The steel plates go in at 72* intervals all the way around; see: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html They DO NOT go at ninety degrees to each other.

Is your primary gear loose? The torque spec for it is 36 ft/lb.

I would highly recommend a new gasket, simply because it's easier to remove than old sealer and there are some hard-to-reach areas on that cover's mating area on the motor.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll get in there and see how it goes. I'm hoping that the loose primary gear isn't indicative of greater transmission problems. It's the reason I'm in there.

 

Is it loose on the shaft, or are you talking about the free-play if you grab the gear and turn it back and forth with the clutch basket out? Because it WILL have a considerable amount of free play when tight on the shaft, you're turning the whole shaft and there is quite a lot of slack in things with the motor off.

What is "the reason you're in there?"

How about start a new thread with your actual issue and let's make sure you're on the right track. It's good you're rebuilding your original clutch; but if you're trying to cure the 550's inherent primary/clutch/trans "rattle" that's not going to fix it. But you could make it worse if you don't assemble the clutch correctly.