XJ550 - Proper chain slack

Hello all - looking for expert advise on the best chain slack for my XJ550 Maxim. I've seen everything from 3/4" to 1.5". The chain that I have is a DID 50VA. I don't yet own a manual for it (I know, I know... I just bought this bike last week and I will be hitting ebay for a Clymer manual.

Besides - I find the best knowledge comes from experience. This site has been my bible for the last couple weeks and Fitz is like God from what I've been able to ascertain.

Thank you guys!

 

BigFitz is the 550 Authority.
He has one that looks like it was made yesterday.

Before you ask him about how much Slack, ... be prepared to tell him:
• How much has been taken-up by the PO.
(At what Mark is the Axle Indicator or How Much travel is left (mm's).

Include Photos.
(There's nothing like the feel of a New Chain and Sprockets)

I would recommend that you get for yourself a ... Factory Book.
Having the Genuine Yamaha Factory Workshop Manual --> specific <-- to your Bike goes a long way toward saving you a bundle.

http://www.yamahapubs.com/

 

Rick - you're another one of the holy order (in my book) - thank you for the reply!

Here are some pics I just took. At this point I took up ALL slack in the chain for the purpose of demonstrating the amount of adjustment left. The sprockets and chain are aftermarket (DID 50VA chain, not sure on sprockets) and both appear to be in good shape to me - I would appreciate your opinion of course!

I want to be sure to set the chain slack so it is neither too tight nor too loose. The chain doesn't skip at all on the sprockets. It needs a good cleaning (as you can see) - that is next on my list.

 

Why does the cotter pin in Pic 1 and Pic 3 not match ??
Why does the left adjuster bolt look bent?? is it just the picture??
The chain and sprocket look rather new - - most people are told to replace them as a set.

You should roll the rear wheel until you find the "tightest spot" on the chain, as the chain and sprocket set has tighter and looser spots as they go around (they're not perfect) then, at the mid-spot of the chain's bottom run, you adjust until you get one inch of deflection.

Let me try to find a Youtube Video . . .

 

One vote for 1" (which is where I run my XS650 as well).

RE: cotter pin - its the same one, these pics were all taken at the same time (minutes before I posted them). Just an optical illusion.

RE: Adjuster looking bent - that one you got right, it is bent slightly.

From what I can tell the PO did a few things that can only be considered *stupid*. For example, the gear shifter was put on with the pinch bolt starting from the THREADED side of the hole. He then tried to tighten it down (to no avail) and ended up stripping the bolt out (BONEHEAD!!!!). I got that sorted out. I will be sorting out the adjuster bolt when I adjust the chain. I am going over the bike from front to back and this is the step I am on (which is one of my last besides replacing fork seals and oil).

 

From the looks of those Safety Locking Tabs ... I'd say somebody did something.

You're beyond 2/3rds of the way pulled.
Go to ACE Hdwe and replace those Tension Bolts and Lock Nuts.

Your photos make me want to roll-down the window and reach-over to grab the speaker off the post.

 

I plan on doing just that Rick. You don't like my pics? I take it with your comment you are trying to say things look old? That there is well cultivated 31 years old grease and dirt my friend! I assure you however that this bike thus far has been very mechanically sound. The compression numbers are great and level; we just rebuilt the carbs, checked valve shim clearances (all within spec), performed a dynamic synch... she purrs like a kitten and jumps off the throttle. It certainly needs some more TLC before we're done but for only being $450 in I think we're doing just fine!

 

One more thing....trim that cotter pin. Snagging pant legs can get expensive.

 

LOL... Will do k-moe. But hey, don't that cotter pin look nice and shiny?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NiDFohUbYY

Chain adjust video /\ :wink:

 

OP never got a straight answer.

The book says 35mm ~ 40mm (1.4" ~ 1.6") but I've found from experience that's just a tad tight.

I run mine at at 40mm ~ 45mm and they seem to hold adjustment much longer.

Lubricate regularly, every 400 miles or so and immediately after getting caught in the rain. My personal preference is PJ1 Blue Label.

To check chain and sprocket wear:

Grasp the pin of a chain link at the 3:00 position on the rear sprocket and pull it straight rearward. If doing this exposes more than 1/2 of the adjacent teeth, then it's time for a new chain and sprockets.



And do replace the bent adjuster bolt, but you won't find one at the hardware store. Those bolts are special, they have a "too small" head so you can use two different wrenches instead of needing two of the same size. A bolt from the auto parts will have the same size head as the lock nut. You can still get the correct bolts from Yamaha or XJ4Ever.

 

Fitz - you are the man indeed! Thank you for this information. I will use your recommended slack (40-45mm). I have already grabbed some stainless bolts and nuts from the local hardware store to replace the originals. As you say, the heads are "normal size" as compared to the smaller heads of the originals. It really shouldn't matter as long as I can properly tighten the nut using a box wrench, yeah?

I really appreciate all the help guys! I have been wrenching for 30+ years and know my way around the shop but know that doesn't mean crap compared to you guys that have been wrenching these XJ's for as long as you have. All advise is welcomed (including just buying the damn $20 clutch switch ;-)

 

You're welcome.

The reason for the two different size heads is for "roadside adjustment" so you don't need two 12mm wrenches. At home in the garage it's no biggie; I've got an auto-parts store replacement on one side too.

NOTE**** You'll need to grind a "tip" onto the replacement bolt to fit into (and not tear up) the plate in the end of the swingarm. Look at the original adjuster bolt; it has a thread-free tip with a smaller diameter portion at the end. Duplicate that. You can do it with an electric drill and a file (That's what I did.)

Clutch switch: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=30354.html

 

I'm glad you pointed that out - I did notice the originals had more of a rounded end - however I used the bolts as-is (the bike hasn't moved since though). I will take 'em out and round the end on the bench grinder.

Thank you Fitz!

 

RickCoMatic: You made reference to the locking tabs. I assume you're talking about on the rear cog. That reminded me of something I've wondered about. What do you do when you've tightened the nut or bolt to the specified torque and the flats aren't aligned with the tabs? Same question for cotter pins.

 

I was trained to back the fastener off until the castellations line up with the hole of the pin. Over-torquing is the way that threads are stripped, and fasteners broken.

 

As was I. Back castellated nuts up slightly.

As for the flats not lining up with the tabs, the locking tabs are relatively soft metal. You bend/mash them up against the flats even if it means a tab ends up engaging parts of two flats on the nut.

 

Use a Drift on the Tab.
Flatten it on the Nut.
Peen the Tab down over the two flats.

 

(What we're trying to describe)

 

This is one of those, ... "You should do's"

You SHOULD use NEW Locking Tabs and Cotter Pins.

But, ... Not everybody does.

 

Agreed!!! I have a cotter pin kit I got from Harbor Freight for dirt cheap - I've had it for a couple years and it should last a couple more. The cost of cotter pins and safety tabs as compared to costing you your life... let's see, add the 2, carry the one.... yeah, its a great deal!!