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XJ600/FJ600 51J Project Advice

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Ciarán, May 12, 2020.

  1. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Good work - I alwsy felt that the XJ600 'deserved' the 550 (Seca) tank - looks much better. What catches my eye now is the footrest mount that looks to big and intrusive. Perhaps that can be modified or a substitute made.

    I went the other route and put the 600 engine into a 550...
     
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  2. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    I agree re the footrest mounts. I hate them on mine too.

    Tonight I'm going to make a rough template of this rear brake https://www.carpimoto.it/en-IN/5218_20516143-Brembo-Rear-Caliper-P32F.htm to check for clearances.

    I think the stock rear brake had a distance between the mounting face on the caliper and dead centre of 34mm. This brake has 26mm. By my reckoning an 8mm spacer would work.

    Want to have a good think about it before I spend a cent on it though.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2020
  3. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    hi again Ciearan,
    i replied to your P.M..
    so after a holiday i picked up your thread questions.
    to start with your left handlebar, the washer E.T.C. near the left grip was on the earlier models, it was for a handlebar operated choke lever, with a cable to the carbs.
    check if your carbs have the manual choke lever on the left side, if so ,then none of the stuff is needed
    as for the plastic cap with the yamaha lettering on, it's just pressed in, that then reveals 2 screws that hold the rest of the plastic cover on
    stu
     
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  4. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    Thanks a million. I figured out that pressed in cap last night. Had planned to do work on it today but gardening and cooking dinner got.in the way unfortunately.
     
  5. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    I like that - bin the rear footpegs and mounts, chop the sticky out bit off the chainguard an you're nearly there...
     
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  6. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    I get the impression that rearsets are hard come by for this bike but I think a few companies make universal ones that might work - think I've seen some universal Joker Machine rearsets and maybe some Tarozzi ones.

    For me, while I love the look of rearsets compared to the XJs standard set up - they'll have a knock on impact on how I fit on the bike. It would mean I'd have to find a way to mount different handlebars and at a minimum trim (if not completely remove) the fairing.

    I kind of want to draw some inspiration from vintage endurance racers but do something a bit tamer. Maybe if I get the bike fully roadworthy and performing well I'll push on and fit a sportier fairing and look at clip ons etc.

    But yeah, @GoCrazy that could work really well on yours. In the long run I hope to try and make a simple (simple design but I'm sure I'll find it a nightmare to make if I get that far) metal chain guard for the XJ.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2020
  7. GoCrazy

    GoCrazy Member

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    IMG_20200810_094129.jpg @Ciarán my side covers are custom made from fibreglass. Pretty Simple job I would say, although a bit messy.

    I am going to make custom rear set, but first I want to take the bike to the road. Rear sets are not a top priority.

    I am on vacation now, but just pefore I left I had picked up tripple trees from powdercoating :)
     
  8. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    @GoCrazy I'm looking forward to seeing more stuff from you. I may steal some ideas from you down the line.

    I did a few hours work today:
    • I made a bit of a mistake the other day and ended up having a bit of a fight to get a piston out of the rear caliper but after a lot of head scratching I succeeded. Rear brakes are in very nice condition actually but I'm out of brake cleaner. I have picks arriving in the next few days (to clean out behind the seals) as well as some other odds and ends - tools wise.
    • I had the bars off and did a quick rattle can job on them as well as the scuffed clutch lever (I'll replace it down the line to an adjustable one matching my new brake lever). I'll be busy for a few days but that'll allow the paint to cure a bit (I will get them painted properly in future but I just wanted to see how they'd look freshened up).
    • I got the bike hooked up to a trickle charger (should have done that sooner!).
    • Removed the naff plastic chain guard. I'm determined to try and make a very simple metal one down the line (perhaps with some Simpsons inspired speed holes).
    So my priorities for now are:
    • Getting more brake cleaner and making sure I have the calipers gleaming
    • Sourcing a rebuild kit for the front brakes - I'll be replacing one or two pistons at a minimum so the TRK kit will be better value in the long run - just have to wait for it to be restocked (spoke to a sales rep and they are restocking it in the next few weeks). When I'm buying that I'll also source a rebuild kit for the rear master cylinder.
    • Getting the rear wheel off and refurbished
    • Refitting both bars, switchgear (I fully intend to replace the switchgear down the line), and controls.
    • Finding a way to get the bike's weight off the front wheel - I bought a paddock stand for the front that just doesn't want to work.
    • Fit my new clutch and throttle cables.
     
  9. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    hi Ciar'an
    just a point on the clutch lever, if you have the original clutch lever mount "perch". then you can see it is angled upwards towards the lever, then the lever itself had a bend in it to bring it level again, this is to allow the clutch cable to angle downwards.
    so if you try to fit an aftermarket lever on the perch ,it will point steeply upwards, (ask me how i know :() . i ended getting a perch off a honda i think, but any straight one will do.:)
    stu
     
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  10. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    Thanks a million for that. I'll keep an eye out for an appropriate set up down the line but for now the stock one will do - the cosmetics don't really matter until I have the mechanicals sorted.
     
  11. GoCrazy

    GoCrazy Member

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    Sińce you are overhauking your brakes, I would recommend replacing the master cylinder with a newer one from FZR600 or other Yamaha. The rebuild kit for FJ600 is around 50 USD.
     
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  12. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    Cheers, I took a bit of a risk and opted for a brand new nissin master cylinder. I decided to go new as I had initially thought I'd have to bin my master cylinder - meaning I'd have to buy and probably refurb a second hand unit. Buying new was a similar cost and much less hassle and got me what I wanted in terms of a remote reservoir and adjustable lever.

    IMG-20200730-WA0001.jpeg
     
  13. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    i like that lever setup a lot , i may go down that road on this project, where did you get it , and (all important) how much>;)
    stu
     
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  14. GoCrazy

    GoCrazy Member

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    I really like the design of FJ600 stock reservoir - the "coffin" shape and Yamaha logo on it. I was going to powdercoat it and polish the "Yamaha", but 50 bucks without shopping is way to much for me
     
  15. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    I got it here https://www.carpimoto.com/en-RU/Bra...B-Nissin-16mm-Axial-Brake-Master-Cylinder.htm - currently out of stock though. They have it for less in silver or grey though depending on what you want:
    https://www.carpimoto.com/en-RU/Bra...B-Nissin-16mm-Axial-Brake-Master-Cylinder.htm
    https://www.carpimoto.com/en-RU/Bra...8-Nissin-16mm-Axial-Brake-Master-Cylinder.htm

    I looked up a few reviews (their prices seemed too good to be true) but the reviews were positive. Their shipping was crazy fast too.

    Hopefully it won't provide massively different performance to the stock MC.
     
  16. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    IMG-20200823-WA0008.jpeg
    Spent a few hours on it today and removed the rear wheel. There was a ludicrous amount of crud and grease build up on the swingarm that the chain was actually rubbing on if you spin the rear wheel.

    I managed to get the rear wheel partially disassembled but met with one bolt for the disc that was truly stuck on. The head of the bolt was already a little rounded and unfortunately my efforts didn't help. Now I'm in a situation of trying to figure out how best to remove it.

    I put the handlebars and switch gear back in place and while I have power generally - lights etc. I seem to have lost ignition. She won't even try and turn over. I didn't want to get hung up on this as running the bike isn't my priority at the moment.
     

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  17. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Heat and candle wax.
    Heat the bolt, apply the wax so it melts in good, and let it cool a tad before turning.

    A 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone will work just as well (no heat required), but takes a bit longer to do the job.

    If the head is too buggered to get a good grip have a nut welded onto it. The heat from welding will break the bolt free.
     
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  18. GoCrazy

    GoCrazy Member

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    I would try welding the biggest nut you can fit on the bolt. Hammer it z few times. Alternatively, you can ask around your local shops if they have a induction heater for seized bolts, take the wheel to them. I have seen this device im action and works like a charms.
     
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  19. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Induction heater is brilliant.
     
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  20. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Heat is your friend. a MAP gas torch will get hotter than butane too. You can also try hammer and a punch (or small blunt chisel) to knock it round. Lots of smaller taps is the idea - like a rattle impact gun.
     
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