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XJ600 (Seca II) carb questions

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Roadrunner, Oct 1, 2010.

  1. Roadrunner

    Roadrunner New Member

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    Recently acquired a pristine 2900-original-miles Seca II. It's a 1996 model. Only things wrong with it, at least that I know about, is that it's sat unused for the last 10 years. So rusty tank and sludge in carbs. The question(s) I have are these:

    * I note from various internet references that these bikes changed a bit in the engine department over the years. They started out 40-some hp and ended up 60-some. Were these carburetion changes or carbs/tuning/parts. In other words, are the engines all the same and just carbs different?

    * Related to the first question, I am contemplating cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. However, I have access to a very nice, and relatively cheap, set of carbs for a Seca II from 1993. Would these work on my '96?

    * My bike was sold and owned in California. Does it have different carbs and/or fuel system than 49-state bikes?

    * Where might I find details of my carburetors, such as the exact size and part number of all the jets. I'm wanting to purchase some replacements but can't seem to locate exactly what to buy.

    * Do these bikes really benefit from the Dynojet upgrade to carbs? I've read differing reports. If it's worth it, I may just do that rather than rebuild the stockers.

    Thanks much
     
  2. ktec

    ktec New Member

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  3. Roadrunner

    Roadrunner New Member

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    Ktec,
    Thanks much. Exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. Now just need to find the small 'cap bolts' (or whatever they're called) such as you see in pic 19 (and others). Previous owner messed with those and broke two of them off with the threads remaining inside the carb body. Yeech. Where's my microscope...?
     
  4. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    The Carbs can be Cleaned no matter what condition they are in.
    The Parts are all aluminum, brass and bronze.

    Your Bike comes with Fuel Supply Plumbing most of us do not have to be concerned with.
    You have a Fuel Pump that needs to be free of contaminants.
    That means you are going to hve to do something about the Tank.

    The Carbs off another SECA II should bolt right on.

    Your BEST move would be to acquire a Factory Service Manual.
    Particularly, for the Chapters on Cleaning the Fuel System.

    Before you make any Modifications to the Bike, ... get it running GOOD -- Stock.

    There ARE Performance Enhancing Kits. But, they are intended to INCREASE Stock levels of Performance. You can't expect to be able to add Performancne Mods to a 10 Year sitter without getting the Bike back to PEAK Stock Performance, first.

    Just restoring your Bike to a good running situation after the vacation it had is going to be one huge formidable task.
     
  5. zombiehouse

    zombiehouse Member

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    If it sat for 10 years you are going to need to cleans the carbs no matter what. Even getting another set off Ebay will require that you clean them too. Can't get around the carb cleaning. It isn't really that hard of a job. It is just a little time consuming. Contact Chacal on this forum and he should have anything you might need for the rebuild. You can click on the XJ4ever ad at the top right of the page.
     
    Timbox likes this.
  6. Roadrunner

    Roadrunner New Member

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    RickCoMatic and Zombiehouse,
    Excellent advice, excellent thoughts. I've actually restored another bike years ago that had sat, as well as several old Datsun Z cars, so I'm no stranger to the agonies of getting sludged up fuel systems viable again. On the good side, the previous owner DID remove the carbs and partially disassemble them himself. So they are not extremely goopy. The 'bad' is that he snapped off two of the 'end caps' for the slider jets, so I'll have to extricate the brass threads somehow before putting new ones in.
    The biggest problem I found in this whole thing so far is not being able to find what model Mikunis these bikes use. I now know they are BDS26s, so now I can order a few odds and ends I need.

    Also, I have a Clymer manual now as well as a factory service manual for the bike, so lots of exploded views are going to help get everything back in the right place. I also agree that I should get this bike running properly in stock trim before trying to get exotic with new jet kits, etc.

    I think I can clean/repair/rebuild the carbs okay. The tank is another matter. As you might imagine, it is pretty nasty inside. Gas has turned to varnish and lots of rust that I can see. Again, I've dealt with this before so have a bit of experience. I bought a tank cleaner/coating 'kit' (made by Kreem) and have high hopes for that. And I think I can deal with the petcock and fuel pump. My big impediment now is the fuel filler cap. I think I'll start another thread on this, as it might impact other folks...
     
  7. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Look-up how some Members successfully removed the scale inside their Fuel Tanks by using the: "Electrolysis Method"

    You can put-together what you need to have all that rust get removed for short money.

    All you need for the Sacrificial Anode is old Coat Hangers, ... and a Battery Charger works perfectly for the current.
     
  8. Taintquitemynutts

    Taintquitemynutts New Member

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    To clean the tank i have used electrolysis or Coca-Cola or vinigar
     
  9. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    When cleaning the tank you have to choose a way. I have tried many ways and come down to Evaporust and small chains to do the trick. Keeping in mind the other ways do work but some have issues. If you electrolysis, that is taking material away from the tank that is thin in the fist place. A weaker tank is not what I think is desired.

    I would have to see how bad the tank is to chose what you could use to clean it. If it is just surface rust then maybe a Vinegar solution would work. If it is much worse than Evapo rust is what I would use. Yes it is costly, but it does the trick really well.

    As far as knocking off rust inside the tank. I used to use the old bolt and screw of the older times. If you chose to do that, make sure you count and get everything back out of the tank. You don't want to leave any bits in the tank when you are done cleaning. I now use small linked chains. That way when I take them out, just use a magnet to get the chain and outcomes all the chain now worries about leaving anything behind.
     
    chacal likes this.

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