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xj650 brat/tracker

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by sybe, Sep 7, 2015.

  1. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    What do you guys think of my build so far?


    20150906_193951.jpg
     
  2. Bigshankhank

    Bigshankhank Active Member

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    Looks good.
     
  3. Roland russell

    Roland russell New Member

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    so far so good!
     
  4. icedog75

    icedog75 New Member

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    I like it...great start.
     
  5. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    loose the engine guards
     
    Xythin likes this.
  6. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

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    Agree with @Polock - If you're trimming the fat, the "love handles" should go under the knife too!
     
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  7. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Better yet, make a set of case guards that look more like this.

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. taggat

    taggat New Member

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    Seat looks great!
     
  9. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    thanks guys, for the advice. I worked on her some more this weekend and got the tank and the fenders primed. Just need to touch up a few bondo spots and wet sand. I want to go with a white tank and black fenders to minimize them. semi gloss possibly or mate paint and a semi gloss 2k clear.

    I plan on using the motogadget m-unit to reduce wire clutter and ditch the relays and fuse box.

    I do have questions on some of the wires coming out of the motor eg the 3 white wires coming out of the alternator. One of the wires go to the diode block. If it don't run it to anything will there be issues with the electronics?


    If your opinion would it be sleeker to convert all the wiring to weather proof bullet connectors or use the delphi weatherproof connectors? Since i removed the air box i want to keep the wires as minimal as possible but keep all the safety features

    I am also torn if i should do an oil catch/breather or just a filter any recommendations?
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2015
  10. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The voltage from the white wire is rectified by the diode within the diode block and applied to the head light relay. When the bike starts and the AC Generator outputs a voltage it energizes the head light relay, turning the head light on which is then latched by the relay. If you are getting rid of the head light relay and using the motogadget features for the headlight you will not need the wire.

    I did a quick look at the motogadget wiring and will admit to being very unfamiliar with it. I see a provision for the side stand switch, but not for the clutch or neutral switch to provide the safety interlock that allows the engagement of the starter only in safe conditions... in neutral or in gear with clutch pulled in and the side stand up.
     
  11. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    I found this diagram online that i am going to use as a template for the m-unit . The neutral and clutch cut off and kill seem straight forward. I know its not the same parts but its a start.

    I'll draw up a new diagram in case others want it.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    I found this diagram online that i am going to use as a templat
    Those are next to come off!
     
  13. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    I tried to edit the first post to include more images but its seems i cant ;(. So here i go!

    the build started in March 2015 with me just tuning the motor and checking the valve shims. I then decided while she is already apart to redo the fork seals which was a pain in the butt getting the bottom race in.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then when it got warmer outside i decided to weld on a frame hoop and start tearing into her more.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    After the seat was final I went ahead and started figuring out how the seat would get mounted down. The idea was two thumb screws and a side cover fastener tab relocated to the center of the frame hoop tail. That way the tail would pop into place and the two thumb screws would hold it down in the middle I then cut the cone shaped knob off the side cover and fiber glassed it to the bottom of the seat. I can take better pics of it if people want.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    Next was making the rear fender... I decided to buy another rear fender and weld them together to make a whole new single piece and it worked![​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  16. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    I was so proud of the fender. The test fit was spot on and then i tried the seat... Never the less It had to be cut.

    You can see the seats mounting tabs I mentioned in the earlier post and I also welded in a pan, battery box and relocated the ignition.

    I also found a place for the solenoid.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    My seat arrived and here she is from the rear and side. In the photos the seat isnt mounted. its just sitting on
    top, so it looks a little off.

    Right before the seat cam i noticed the inside of my tank getting rusty so i treated it with mauratic acid, gas rinse, degreaser followed by acetone and por-15 tank sealer. The tank was completely dry and clean.

    The por-15 didnt take and dislodge from the side of the tank when it dried. If you looked in the gas hole you saw a deflated tank. It took me 5 hours to get it out of my tank. What came out blew my mind. it looked liked Styrofoam.
    I ended up using red kote for the second try and im happy with it. Just wish it wasn't red.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. taggat

    taggat New Member

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    Good work man! I am digging that setup!
    Did you sew up that seat or ?
     
  20. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    All I did was the pan and the cushion. The leather was done by an upholster in Baltimore. Pricey but worth it.
     

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