YICS tool washer ...couldn't find today..

So, the parts list for making your own YICS widget, calls for (7) 5/16" washers (1/8") hole
The hardware store I went to, which has like everything under the sun, didn't have em.
I even went to "Fastenal" & they didn't either.

Are these beasties special?
Is there a suitable alternative measurement that will suffice?

Thanks lads,
Rich

 

I went to Lowes and Home depot, neither had them. I found them at ACE hardware.

 

ah, thanks Martin.
We gots them here, so I'll check it out for sure.
Some gas line, those washers & I'm YICS building!


Cheers!

 

Looks like a manufacturer supply company that's (thank God local) has an aluminum version.
yaaay

 

Gas line on a YICS tool will end up melting, and making a BIG mess inside the YICS chamber......don't do it!

You'll need some silicone tubing that will withstand up to about 400*F, as soft a durometer as possible.

 

ok, thanks mate.
you perhaps saved me a major headache there..
and I was downstairs beginning to construct it too..!

I'll get silicone tubing & go from there.

Rich

 

Boy, I've spent a lotta gas $ running around trying to find something that'll work for tubing, to withstand the high temps, & is 3/8" OD....

hmm

 

That's why it's easier to buy one of the pre-made ones!

 

mhm , I see.

What's the latest status on the fellow who builds em, is he currently in production mode, do you know?
over

 

Mike Oberle makes them

XJ Products and stuff

Have bought from him and also have a spin on oil filter adapter. very pleased

 

I've got them in stock!:


vv7) Reproduction YICS Port Blanking "Block-Off" Tool---this is the tool you'll need to perform a proper carb synchronization on any YICS motor......without it, you're just wasting time. This block-off tool is used to isolate each cylinder from the others while perfoming a carb synch. Updated version of the factory #90890-04068-00 tool. Some people claim that this tool is NOT needed to perform a proper synch; we disagree, and so do the Yamaha engineers who designed the YICS system. Quality aluminum tool features a snap-open and shut trunnion handle design like the original. This is NOT a cheap home-made tool and has all the proper seals, dimensions, and high-temp insulators as an original factory tool. IN STOCK!


as well as these:

c5) Yamaha YICS Port Clean-Out Tool----the YICS chamber runs side-to-side in the back of the cylinder head, and is accessed via a 12mm bolt on either end (this is the same chamber that the HCP93 synch passage-block-off tool fits into). This chamber has four tiny passages in the top, one for each cylinder. These passages can accumulate soot and other material over time, effectively clogging or reducing their capability to pass the fuel-air mixture through them, and thus compromising their function. This YICS port probe & clean-out tool has a spear point that can punch through the toughest accumulation of carbon build-up, and has marked notches on the extension rod to indicate exactly how deep into the chamber the tool must be inserted to easily locate the passages. Convenient dowel handle allows for ease of use. A very handle tool to have around!

HCP1282 YICS chamber Port Clean-Out Tool:

$ 14.95


and these are in stock too:

j2) Morgan Carbtune Pro 4-column Synch Tool-Gauge-Stick....brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions. This is the one that professionals use and recommend, and is superior in design, ease of use, and accuracy versus vacuum gauges and all other versions, whether fluid-filled or otherwise. Uses damped stainless steel sliding dowel rods instead of mercury or the "blue mystery fluid", giving accurate, safe, and easy-to-read measurements. More expensive than other synch tools and worth it. Use it even once and you'll wonder how you lived without it.

NOTE: this tool is used on all XJ engines, regardless of whether it is a "YICS" engine or not.

Also, please note! you can sometimes find these same sticks selling at a discount at various places, but most of these places are offering a much older, now-discontinued Carbtune II version, rather than the latest, much-improved Carbtune PRO version that is offered here. The PRO version is much more durable, accurate, and easier to clean and service than the older version.

HCP96Q Morgan Carbtune Pro 4-column Synch Sticks:
$ 114.00


j3) Storage/Transport Pouch for the above carbtune pro synch stick....very nice zippered and clasp-closure storage case to hold the gauge and all the accessories neatly and safely. You REALLY want to have this to safely store and transport the (somewhat fragile) synch gauges!

HCP1287 Morgan Carbtune Storage & Transport Pouch
$ 19.00




j5) Gunson Colortune Tuning Spark Plug ....brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions. If you really want to tune your multi-carbs to perfection, you'll have to use this unique "see-through" spark plug that allows you to view the combustion chamber flame color in real-time, thus allowing accurate (rather than guesswork) adjustments to your idle mixture screws. Use it once and you won't believe how you ever got by without it, and will pity those who don't have one of their own. Beware: you'll find that a lot of people now want to be your "friend" and have you come and tune on their bikes, once they find out you have a Colortune!

Also, please note! you can find quite a few of these plugs at a discount at various places, but most of these places are selling an older, now-discontinued "automotive" version of the Gunson colortune plug. While there are no fitment differences between the automotive and "motorcycle" versions of these plugs, just be aware that the automotive versions were designed to be used in a water-cooled engine, and thus have a significantly lower heat tolerance----and if these plugs overheat, the "clear" window either goes cloudy or just simply fractures.


NOTE: 12mm plugs are used on all XJ550 and XJ700-X models.
14mm plugs are used on all XJ650/XJ700 non-X/XJ750/XJ900/XJ1100 models. No XJ bikes from this era used 10mm plugs!


HCP95A Gunson Colortune Spark Plug Tool, for 10mm spark plugs:
NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "C" are 10mm. No XJ-series bikes from this era used 10mm plugs!
$ 54.00

HCP95B Gunson Colortune Spark Plug Tool, for 12mm spark plugs:
NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "D" are 12mm, and are used on all XJ550 models and all XJ700 "X" model bikes.
$ 49.00

HCP95C Gunson Colortune Spark Plug Tool, for 14mm spark plugs:
NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "B" are 14mm, and are used on all XJ650, XJ700 non-X models, and all XJ750/900/1100 models.
$ 49.00


and of course, I try to keep 20+ units of these in stock at all times, too:

os1) Reproduction Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter Kit....okay, the original Yamaha cartridge oil filter system is "adequate", but for real oil filtering capabilities and ease of filter replacement---not to mention a certain cool-factor!---you really want to upgrade the factory system to an automotive-type spin-on "can" filter. Doing so not only gets you better oil filtration, easier (much easier) oil changes, but also eliminates the oil cleaner cover, the easy-to-strip by-pass bolt, and all the other associated o-rings and seals needed when performing an oil change using a stock system.

This system consists of six pieces:

a) a precision-machined aluminum filter Adapter Plate and mounting Nut.
b) a threaded mounting Stud and a corresponding stud installation Tool.
c) a plate-to-block O-ring Seal.
d) your choice of a Purolator, K&N, or Amsoil spin-on mini-can oil filter.
e) installation instructions.

This kit contains everything you'll need to replace your original set-up on any XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, or XJ900RK models. NOTE: will work on both all original non-oil-cooler equipped models, as well as on all factory oil-cooler-equipped models (XJ650 Turbo and XJ900RK), without the use of any additional parts.

The Adapter Plate in this spin-on filter kit replaces the entire outer filter cover (and all its mounting and internal pieces) on all models, and is only about 1" longer in overall length than the stock filter system---so clearance against the frame rails and exhaust headpipes is not an issue. All of the can filters that we offer are approximately 2-3/4" in diameter, and should "fit" easily in-between the two central exhaust header pipes on a stock exhaust system (you may wish to verify clearance on your own bike).

Additionally, all of the can filters that we offer measure only about 2-3/4" in diameter, which means you should NOT have any problems with accessing them via through the clearance in-between the #2 and #3 exhaust header pipes on stock system. Aftermarket systems MAY pose some challenges in this regard, and due to the variety of different systems on the market, you should measure your system to determine the ease of access.



HCP1284PL aftermarket Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter Kit, with a Purolator Pure-One mini-can filter. Each:
$ 54.95

HCP1284KN aftermarket Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter Kit, with a K&N mini-can filter. Each:
$ 59.95

HCP1284AM aftermarket Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter Kit, with an Amsoil mini-can filter. Each:
$ 64.95


Periodic replacement parts (the only ones you'll ever need) for either kit above:


HCP277 replacement Purolator One spin-on mini-can Oil Filter. This gold Purolator can filter is an excellent choice that balances low-cost with good filtration ability, and it has a coarse-texture finish on the can to make the installation and removal simpler. Each:
$ 7.95

HCP278 replacement K&N spin-on mini-can Oil Filter. This K&N filter features a high-flow rate with excellent filtration ability. Additionally, this filter has a welded-on hex-nut on the top to aid in installation and, especially, removal. Each:
$ 12.95

HCP2798 replacement Amsoil spin-on mini-can Oil Filter. Amsoil ultra-high-performance filters are recognized as the "gold standard" in oil filtration, showing both an extremely high-flow rate with exceptional filtration ability. Each:
$ 19.95

HCP2283 spin-on oil filter adapter plate-to-block O-Ring Seal, for the HCP1284PL, HCP1284KN, or HCP1284AM adapter plate kits. Each:
$ 3.50

HCP93 reproduction YICS port blanking tool, each:
$ 37.00

 

Sorry Chacal, I keep forgetting you have a warehouse of goodies.

 

No problems Spin! Mike O. does too.

But mine is bigger........ :lol:

 

Gas line works just fine for the intended purpose. It shouldn't take you more than a few seconds, a couple minutes at most, to synch your carbs. I could see them possibly having a problem melting if you left the YICS tool in the running engine for an extended period of time. But that isn't necessary. I also couldn't find the washers, and I just built mine without the washers. The hard tubing still sufficiently expands the fuel hose without the washers. It even does it evenly, since each piece of hose is the point of least resistance, and each piece of hose is the same material and size.

Besides that, my bike has been tuned and synched by a couple of shops over the years and none of them used the YICS tool. When I started doing it myself, there was no meaningful difference between using the tool and not using the tool. There is a difference in where the needles sit, but not in respect to each other. Since your goal is to get the needles to match up, not to get them to sit at a certain setting, the tool makes no difference. Other people will tell you otherwise, but that has been my experience.

 

I disagree. I believe that everyone at Yamaha engineering would too!

 

I think it's interesting how some have found no need for it, while others staunchly defend that it's absolutely needed.

Hard to argue with someone who has NOT used one, yet has seen results though isn't it?
Not saying a YICS tool shouldn't be used, just saying maybe some bikes are predisposed to not needing it..?

Maybe a comparison of folks bikes & if they've used it/not used it to see if there's a pattern of models that don't "need" it.

Rich
ps. I finally did find silicone tubing(NAPA) , at 5/8" OD, however, ID is 1/4", making it a bit loose on the rod.

I'll be trying it tonight.
The first time I've attempted to sync Yamaha carbs ever.

 

That size should work fine!

 

I'll confess I use fuel line as well. Haven't had a problem...yet. Of course it goes without saying that I only insert it once the engine is warmed up and remove it as soon as I'm through with the tweaking. I have purchased the high-temp silicone line as a backup just to cover my can.

 

Help!!
I have the gauges hooked up to all 4 boots.
I have the engine warm.
I have the YICS tool inserted.
I'm trying to keep RPM at 1500 using the idle adjuster knob.

My gauges are this set:
http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/how ... f_sync.JPG

I have the gauges sitting still(I assume you screw that little white knobbie on the gauge hose till it stops it's fluttering?)

The readings of Carbs 1&2 are not that far off, I think like a couple maybe 3 on the scale.

I'm turning the sync adjuster screw on carb #1 , but I'm seeing NO movement of the gauge needle at all.

Help!
Rich
ps. if anyone feel sup to it, I can be reached at 207.713.5084
I'm open to instruction.
I can get out to the bike pretty quick if someone has any wisdom that'll help..
Thanks lads.

 

ok, disregard the emergency.
I realized I was turning the mixture screw.
Oops.
I'll never do that again.
I turned it in, then backed off 1.5 turns for a general setting: then synced the carbs.
Bummer is, now the bike doesn't even start.
Man, what was I thinking.