New XJ1100 owner.

Don't be afraid of the carbs. Best advice I ever got and can give is it's just nuts and bolts. All you need is a decent set of instructions. After rebuilding my 1st set it was like riding a different bike. The 2nd set, I missed a little varnish in carb #2 (really couldn't see it) and the header pipe for that cylinder was barely warm. You may have to do it more than once, but that's ok. Just think of all the money you'll save!

 

If you're 2&3 plugs are NOT wet when you pull them, I highly doubt those jugs aren't firing at all. Sounds to me like you're starved for fuel on those two cylinders, so it only fires (when fuel permits) every so often (2&3 exhaust is warm, but not HOT)

I'm thinkin a good carb clean/rebuild will help a lot of your issues.

DO check your plug caps for correct resistance tho, as that may lead you to a bunch of oddities as well.

IF you're using (and they ohm out ok) 5k resistance caps, DO NOT use "R" plugs at the same time (Use BP7ES NOT BP7"R"ES).

Correct way to check that, is read your resistance from #2 plug lead to #3 plug lead (WITH caps on) You should read 20k or so (5K cap +10K coil winding +5K cap) You check your secondary side coil windings WITHOUT the plug caps on (unscrew them off) you should read 10-11k across the coil.

Let us know what you find!

 

My carb rebuild was easy. It was sync that kicked my butt. But I didn't know my TCI was bad at the time giving me hell.

 

Hey guys, thanks for all the suggestions. the carbs will definitely get rebuilt, I can get help if I need it, my dad was a mechanic for 30+ years, I'm just not so sure if I want to try it by myself. I'll probably end up taking the bike down there and getting him to help me, and show me so that next time I can do this on my own. As for the coils, I haven't checked those yet, had some errands I had to run this morning, but I've been troubleshooting the TICS, per the threads I found on here. I read through the whole thing first, and plan on going back through to follow it step by step, but first I had a question or two. I bought a new multimeter at walmart last night ($12) and wanted to make sure it was working properly so I tried step 2 of the TICSS troubleshooting guide, which reads as follows: "Verify 12V during cranking. Set the meter to DC Volts. Put the red meter probe to the Red/White terminal at the TCI box (with the TCI box connected). Put the black probe to the Black terminal at the TCI. With the ignition on, this should read 11.5 to 13 volts or so. Crank the engine. This should not drop below 10V or so."

SO! I set my volt meter to DC, place the terminals as directed, look over expecting to see 12ish Volts on my meter ... only I'm not getting 11.5 - 13 Volts. I get 10.4 - 10.6 Volts. (see pics below) When I Crank the engine, it drops down to 8ish, but as soon as the bike lights off I get between 12.5 and 14 Volts. The battery is new, and I get a steady 12.2 Volts at the battery (without disconnecting the terminals. Is this something I should be concerned about?

Sorry some of these came out blurry, battery was about to die on my camera and I was rushing.


TCI module


Placing multimeter probes per instructions


Pre Ignition voltage


Voltage @ idle

 

Hi, welcome to XJbikes! The suggestion to use Chacal is excellent, he has most everything you'll ever need and he ships fast.

Here's a view of the Octopus (your fuel delivery system) as it's called on the XJ1100. This might be a label under the seat on your bike but the numbers listed to follow are not on that diagram. They are though on the metal body of the octopus. Save the diagram to your computer and you can expand it to see the numbers more easily.




Here's a page with a clear path for the fuel system on your bike & how to tell if it's working. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=713

You might find some additional help with your XJ1100 on that website, the XJ1100 is in some ways different than the other XJ series in some ways and some of the values are different. For instance, the engine is different in many ways than any of the other XJ bikes but is much the same in the older XS1100 bikes. The XJ1100 is considered by many to be the last of the XS1100 series and that's what that website is devoted to. You'll also fine the help here most helpful and there's tons of experience out there to help you.

Have fun working with & running your XJ1100, it's really the most powerful of the XJ series and though mine is still going back together, it did run last October and it had so much power even when horribly mistuned, I can't wait to have it running properly in a week or so.

 

Took some readings, they are as follows:

Plug wire Caps:
#1 = 4.5
#2 = 4.5
#3 = 4.5
#4 = 7.9

From cap to cap (through coil):
1-4= 24.2 (this includes the 12.4 total resistance from the caps for an actual resistance of 11.8)
2-3= 22 (includes the combined 9 total resistance from caps for an actual resistance of 13)

Primary coil checked from 2 pin connector:
Red/white to Orange = .06
Red/white to Gray = .06

From Red/white @ coil to fuse box = .01 for both coils

From Orange to TCI (coil 1- 4) = .01
From Gray to TCI (coil 2-3) = .01

I'm starting to wonder if I'm taking this measurements right? Seems like there's not much resistance anywhere. except at the caps. Even the coils are way under what the 2.5 Ohms the guide says it should be.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

Thanks KA1J, I've got that diagram under my seat. Hoses are routed properly. I will be using Chacal for parts, just have to wait until next week when I get paid. Bills come first unfortunately. I've been on the XS11 set as well, and you're right, there is a lot of good info there. I haven't set up an account on that one yet, but I may end up doing that as well.

 

Seems like everyone here is anti pod for air filters. PO pulled the airbox and put pods on my bike. He said he had it rejetted at the Yamaha dealer shortly after that (though I'm wondering if he actually did, and if he did if the tech knew what he was doing). I'm at an elevation of 4266 ft. and my exhaust is stock except that PO drilled holes in the ends to make it louder. Any chance these changes are what's causing my problems?

 

something you can try if you don't think your getting fuel pull the pods off start it up take a rag fold it over a few times cover the inlet for a sec see if the cyls cut in if there is gas in the carbs it will pull it up for sure. Did you ever check compression hopefully its not it but you never know. This will probably sound a little weird but do you know anyone with a hand held laser temp gauge you can get accurate reading of exhaust temps I just did my little honda after running a min or 2 1 cyl was 300+ degrees the other was 150 ended up being the float was 2 high and flooding that cyl but not enough to run out of the overflow you could only smell gas on occasion. Does your oil smell like gas ?

 

12.2 volts is not enough voltage on a standing batt.
I bought a new batt a few months ago, had them complete the charge,
and took it back after only a week because I noticed a less then powerful responce from the starter.
That batt started out at 12.67dcv and dropped to 11.97 -12.25.
take it back and get a new batt-make sure it stays over 12.40 min.
Ask them to upgrade the new batt for the hassle-I did
and got a better one in the long run.

 

Thanks for the suggestions cutlass, I'll try the rag trick and see if it helps, but I get the feeling it's not going to make any difference. I haven't checked compression yet either, most things have been on hold until I get paid next week so I can order parts/tools. I don't know of anyone that has a laser temp gauge, but I can tell you that cylinders 2 and 3 are nowhere near 300 degrees. You can put your hand on them and though they are warm, they're nowhere near hot enough to burn you. 1 and 4 will burn you in nothing flat though, don't ask me how I know lol. As for the oil, I'm not sure. It didn't last time I checked (which was after I brought it home), so I'm assuming still not, but I will check tomorrow after work and make sure. I'm stuck here until midnight tonight and have to be back at 8am tomorrow until 4pm.

parts I don't have any idea where PO got this battery, and doubt very seriously they would take it back without a receipt even if I did. I'll try charging it first, maybe it's because I had left the ignition on for a while while running tests and the headlight was on the whole time. If that doesn't help, I'll look at replacing it sometime soon.

 

Is it possible that my problem is due to ignition coil pickups? I was reading through this thread. and it was like a lightbulb coming on in my head. How would I check this? May have time tomorrow evening before it gets dark.

 

Yes it is possible but not as likely as on an XS1100.
They should be around 700 ohms IIRC.
I think Chacal has the service manual on cd.
Also the clymer manual on the xs1100 can be of help if the factory manual
isn't clear but beware of differences in specs as the XJ1100 and XS1100 though related are NOT exactly the same.
P.S. protect the tci box they are a 1 year only part and are rare and EXPENSIVE!!

 

Wouldn't it be funny if 2&3 had bad spark plug caps. I would check the ohms on that.