YICS Tool Rental?

You need to come down more on the Idle.
1,500 is slightly Off-Idle drawing a little bit of Main Jet Fuel.

Keep the Idle at below 1,050 if you can do it.
You might have to adjust the Throttle Cable Tension Adjustment to get the Throttle Plates to close completely.

Then, when the Carbs are actually dependent on the Idle Adjustment Rod ... use the Idle Adjustment Rod to sneak down the Idle as you do the Sync.

Otherwise, the aamixture is going to be too Rich, and you'll get a "Too Rich Hole" coming off Idle that will cause the Bike to hesitate before it "Catches-up with the right amount of Air needed to sustain performance getting out-of-the-hole!

 

After reading through most of this tread I have some questions:

Will the homemade YICS tool work if adapted to seal the outside of the engine on #1?

Has anyone actually seen the fuel line rubber of the DIY model melt?

Rick, have you found the thread where you give the precise measurements of the dealer model YICS tool?

Thanks for all the helpful info!

-Rich

 

No. I haven't got the thread figured out.
I lost all the stuff I wrote when my Dell Died and I switched-over to this new Mac.

Having a YICS Tool with the proper spacing eliminates the need for an end plug to stop air from getting in while tuning.
The Factory spacing closes-off the individual Ports and seals any place that air could get in to the passage while the tool is expanded.

 

I looked for the thread and couldn't find it.

When I can, I'll measure my home-made tool; because I used the Factory measurements making it.

I'll Post those measurements on here tonight.

 

Yes, there are many who have used fuel line and found a gooey mess after it melted. The mess can be cleaned. The real issue is the melted rubber getting to the YICS ports and blocking them.

The exact dimensions:

The three compressible seals are 10mm BEFORE compressing.
The large seal is 13mm wide.
The long sections are the same and are 122mm in length.
The smallest section is 21mm.
The latch end section is 40mm.
Diameter cannot exceed 9.5mm. Otherwise the tool will bind (the passage is 10mm) and you will have no fun extracting it.

 

would 1/4" all thread work

 

Has anyone found silicon tubing in Canada?

---p

 

Hello...

I've bought and built the tool and have negative experiences with both. Basically, the area gets too hot for the rubber and you can spend a lot of time degunking the passage with a bent piece of wire, trying to remove the tool and recovering bits of rubber. I've used silicone high temp tubing also. It get TOO hot. It's tough to get a good seal.

I don't even screw with the blanking off the passage. My approach is to balance the carbs with mercury carb-stick (home made) and then use color-tune to adjust each cylinder. Re-balance with carb-stick, temp probe the exhaust and then read the plugs.

 

Would anyone have the part number for the original yamaha YICS tool? I'd like to see if I can find one out there somewhere. Thanks.

 

umm...you do know that chacal sells an aftermarket version of the tool for not a lot of money, right? And that it works?

 

Didn't know that, but I was going to PM him about it. Thanks Fitz

 

ok stupid question but what is this tool used for?

 

If you have a YICS engine it blocks the ports so you can sync the carbs. The YICS (in simplest terms) is a passage that allows the carbs to share vacuum.

 

ok very interesting because i have a yics engine. i think i might try to fabricate one of these tools then, i have a guy with a lathe also il have to takea closer look at the the diagram to see if he can build me one.

 

Is it me or did everyone in here miss Rick saying to stuff it with mystery-oil-soaked t-shirt and plug it up?
Sounds good to me!

I trust Rick so much, I think I'd trust him to do heart surgery on me.
Well, maybe not HEART surgery. lol

 

Wait until you actually do the stuffing. It is a royal pain. The tool is easier. I tried it and it does indeed work.

 

And to un-stuff the wadded up tee shirts, I tried picking them out with a litle hook I made, and ended up driving them thru with 2 Chevy push rods
and a hammer. If you stuff it, tie knots in it.

I'd like to thank Polock for giving me his YICS tool.

 

ok,stupid question coming on. been reading all bout these carbs and the issues so i could better understand it all but this yics thing is a gray area in my brain at its not brain matter.LOL, anyway where does this tool fit to block the yics ports? that is the only thing i havent figured out yet?

 

On either side of the head, at the rear, just above the joint with the cylinders is a flare-nut bolt head with a copper gasket under it. These are the plugs at the ends of the YICS passage. You remove one or the other to insert the tool; both to clean out the passage.

In this picture, it's visible at the VERY BOTTOM of the pic, just behind and below the fins on the head:

 

ok now i got it thanks!!!!!!!!

 

Hi all. Anyone seen this YICS tool on ebay? Any thoughts?

ebay

The o-rings are Viton and withstand almost 400 degrees. I wondered if it was worth a look or not?

Hope you all have a great weekend!

Poot

 

Just a logical thought, no experience. . .
Since the "O" ring only seals while compressed, you are shoving this precision tool in, and the "O" rings are scraping against the sharp edge of the smaller transfer ports, with the possibility of cutting these "O" rings.

The tools we use/build expand the rubber seals once in place.
If it doesn't ruin the "O" rings, then it sounds fine.

 

I got one of those it works ok but as TIMEtoRIDE the "O" Rings do get cut and dont always seal. I thinsk thte tool from Chacal is a better buy.

 

Hey guys, I tried Rick's t-shirt method and it worked like a charm. If you have trouble getting it out when you're finished thread a wood screw into the wadding and pull it out. Presto! Unplugged. Just be sure you're threading it into the wadding and not your engine.

 

Got any more info? How many t-shirts did it take? Did you have to cut it up? What kind of oil did you use? Was it hard to get in? Why am I asking so many questions?

 

I just cut two 1 1/2" x 3' strips, soaked them in motor oil, and packed them in the passage a little at a time with a piece of threaded rod I had laying around. Anything long enough would work. I agree that getting a tool would be easier but if you're not going to use it all the time why not use this method that doesn't cost anything?

 

I'm renting strips of oily "T" shirts, but I need a big deposit :lol:

 

TIMEtoRIDE, how much do you want? Do you ship to Canada?

 

Is this the correct reverse engineer of the YICS tool?
Sorry to hijak so to speak. Didn't really see the point
in starting a whole 'nother.

 

Supposedly, the tool with the "O" rings has very little durability, but I guess would work, since they are doubled up in the pic. If they broke, they would still isolate pretty well.

 

Thanks bro! 8)
Curious what the "actual" YICS tool is/was. Read thru
a couple threads where it's talked about leavin' the tool
in permanently. 8O Guess I just haven't clicked on the
theory..?

 

That's the one I have. I've only syncd twice but it worked fine both times. I'm sure at some point the rubber washers might need to be replaced, but who knows how long that'll be.

 

NO, it's not. That's the "leave it in place" type "YICS eliminator" tool; the correct style factory copy has a release lever at one end and a nice big fat SEAL right by the lever where it meets the outside of the passage.

 

I've got Chacal's tool, so if anyone in the Kitchener, Stratford, Woodstock area wants to borrow it, they're more than welcome, just come pick it up.

 

xj511 i bought one of them, i dont know y they use rubber o rings? is it for vibration, my mate has just made me 2 up, and they work great,as my 550, wont start on the button,without it, and carbs are set up right, but i do have open filters,

 

I have both. I didn't care for the eliminator. I think the o-rings are spaced to prevent the fuel in the port from mixing whereas the washers on the yics tool expand to block off the four holes in the top and seal the open end of the port. I could be wrong. Hope this helps.

Gary H.

 

psssst.....hey-----shhhh, don't tell anybody.....you don't really need to use the YICS tool.

 

Is some-one on this list living near Eindhoven (The Netherlands, Europe) and willing to rent or let me borrow the tools needed to tune my XJ 550?
I am looking for a YICS tool, a vaccuum measurement tool and a colotune plug for 12 mm plugs.
The rental arrangement from Chacal does not work for me because of the shipping time and cost.

Thanks,
Joris

 

I read an articel where you can bench sync the carbs using wire or tiny drillbits to measure and match the throttle plate opening.

at least i have a use for my used socks now

 

That's called a "bench sync" and used to get them roughly adjusted before you mount the carbs. Since the vacuum will most likely differ from cylinder to cylinder, you need to do the final adjustments on the bike running.

 

Seriously? I was about to post a thread asking this.
I'm going to be checking my valve clearances and cleaning/syncing my carbs for the first time
soon and was wondering if i had to use that tool even after balancing them with the homemade bottle sync
machine if you will.
It's a 1982 xj650 seca I have with the YICS pasted all over it!

 

Ummm......if the YICS passages (not the large chamber that the tool fits into, but the tiny passages that run off the chamber and to each intake tract) are completely blocked by carbon build-up, then that's probably true. And then it's also probably true that you should un-block them......

It is physically impossible to correctly synch a YICS-equipped engine, with un-clogged ports, w/o the YICS tool in place (or, at least, SOME way of blocking off the YICS chamber), so that the cylinders do not communicate (and share vacuum signals) with each other during the synch process)!

 

I have one of the tools, bit have never needed to use it, and the passages are very clean. I like to look at the tool. its pretty.

 

A lot of mechanics don't vac synch following the bench synch (i do). Imo the best way to bench synch is to use the holes in the top of each carb. A good bench synch should put the vac on each carb within 1" or less of each other which is within spec and will allow the bike to start and run less the ec (aka choke). Using a yics tool and vac gauge(s) will put them spot on.

Gary H.

 

It really is, a work of art even.......

 

We're not talking about the running sync gauges. We're talking about the YICS tool that would be inserted into the YICS port to block the carbs from each other while you do your running sync. I do use gauges, I LOVE the Morgan Carbtune. It takes only a couple minutes or so to dial them right in.

At our carb clinics, he look on the faces of people... after they take their bike for a spin....is priceless when they pull back in.

Dave

 

Yes, until you get:

a) your valves adjusted
b) your carbs cleaned
c) your mixture screws adjusted (Colortune Plug)
d) your engine synched (Carbtune synch gauge)

you'll have no idea just how powerful and balanced and reliable these engines are.

Of course, doing all the above means you'll have to spend the time and $$ to make up for the last 30+ years of previous owners NOT doing such regular maintenance/service, but, if you really want to dance, ya got to pay the fiddler........

 

And THAT is a lot of why there re carb clinics.

You're absolutely right ..... When these bikes are back in shape, they really have p l e n t y of power!!

Dave