CLUTCHES 101-Part 1: the 400/550/600s with pics

The exploded view shows a wire clip, clutch plate, and spring seat on the hub.
The first photo I've quoted looks like you might be able to see a clutch plate and spring seat; the next photo (with the assembly propped up on a screwdriver) doesn't look like there's a spring seat. I haven't taken mine apart yet, but was wondering where to look for the spring seat. Is it hidden between the hub and the clutch plate?

The online parts diagrams show a separate seat plate (8) and clutch boss spring (9), in addition to the plain clutch plate (10) and wire clip ring (11).


Fitz, I trust you more than the books or online catalog... can you clear this up before I start wrenching?

 

That looks to me like it is the diagram for the Euro spec 550. What Fitz wrote is for the US spec.

 

I have a '82 650. I am attempting to replace the Friction Plates and the Clutch Plates. After reassembly, I started my bike. Rev'ed it up a couple of times and heard the sound of stuff breaking. I immediately shut her down.

I removed the cover and found that all the pressure plate bolts were bent or broken, springs were a mangled mess, the clutch and pressure plate were destroyed and the inside of the cover was damaged.

I assumed I had tightened the pressure plate way too much ( I didn't have access to a torque wrench). So I jumped on Ebay and ordered a used clutch boss and pressure plate. All the clutch and friction plates survived.

I reassembled again, but didn't tighten the pressure plate near as tight as I had previously. Started my bike again. Didn't hear the breakage noise but the clutch was very noisy and I didn't have any pressure on the hand lever when I tried to engage the clutch. Shut the thing down again, removed the cover, and the clutch boss and pressure plate were completely destroyed again.

Sooooooooo, here I go again. Parts came in yesterday. Clutch Boss in installed, Pressure Plate is on, Compression Springs and bolts are installed but hand tight only( you can still spin the springs). Oh....."The Dots are Aligned", as they were on the previous attempts.

My question is on how to tighten the compression springs and pressure plate. I did invest in a cheap torque wrench but I have to compress the spring entirely before my torque wrench starts to read anything. Is that correct? It doesn't seem to leave much room for the push rod to pull the pressure plate away.

I've screwed it up twice........I am tired of experimenting.....LOL! Starting to get expensive. Thanks...

 

Good god. I can imagine how gut-wrenching and tear-inducing that must have been.

I can only speak from my own recent experience of rebuilding the clutch. When I assembled the plates, they had been drenched in oil for over 24 hours, along with the springs, bolts, washers, and throw out bearing. Supposedly a few hours would suffice, but I went for overkill. Like you said, my dots were aligned. When I put the bolts in, I too hand-tightened first, but in star formation. Then I did ten ratchet turns on each bolt in star formation until it met with a change in the resistance, so that it was slowly compressing evenly. Then I torqued each one in the same star formation. Then I gasketed her up and torqued the cover on in as close to star formation as I could get with those bolts.

Now, I don't have years of experience as a mechanic nor any formal training, but after reading what your clutch went through, I'd be asking the wizards here if you need to replace more than just the stuff that's visibly busted. I'd be worried about the baskets and a few other things that don't get replaced in a standard rebuild.

 

Oh, and you did put oil back in before starting it up, right? Hate to ask stupid questions, but it's important to rule that stuff out. Like when the tech support guy asks if the computer is plugged in.

 

Yeah, I did re-fill with oil. Coated all the plates in oil, too. I know it was too tight the first time, and I am pretty sure too loose the 2nd time, the reason I am saying that is because I hand tightened the botls until the springs wouldn't turn without effort then I torqued each bolt down only 4 turns.

I am going to try your procedure tomorrow. I know the plates have to separate to shift. I just don't know how much, evidently not much. thanks Bald Wonder for the response

 

Anyone have a torque spec for the clutch cover bolts? I can't find it in my non-Yamaha manual for my 550. My Maxim-X manual says 8.7 ft-lb. Fitz, maybe you could add this detail in your write-up?

 

I think it's 7.2, but check the XJ4ever catalog. I think it lists the specs for everyone.

 

Good call. XJ4Ever says 7.2. My bolts are 20% tight. I think I'll leave them as is now that they're tightened.

 

Tighten them to the correct torque, and use new bolts. You do not want the clutch coming apart again.

 

I was talking about the ten clutch cover bolts, not the five bolts on the pressure plate. You'd remove and replace them?

 

I would, but often don't. Just plan on using new ones the next time. They are meant to be a consumable item, just like connecting rod bolts. I missed that you were talking about the clutch cover screws.

 

Next oil change I'll swap them out.

 

SIGH...Fitz hasn't been on in ages... Life has gotten in the way.

 

Should I be able to rotate the inner basket freely by hand if all plates are removed on my 83 XJ 750 maxim?

 

If you're in neutral, yes. I believe the inner basket drives the rear wheel through the transmission, so if you're on the center stand you can turn it and see the rear wheel move. Counter-clockwise turned my 700X wheel forward, if I recall.

 

I'm trying to remove the clutch boss and hub on my xj550. The locking tab on the clutch nut is straightened out and my problem is the clutch nut will not loosen. I've got a set of extra plates riveted together to use as the holding tool to keep the clutch hub from turning, however, the entire hub turns (causing the transmission to turn and rotate the rear tire) even when I'm using long leverage with ratchet to loosen the clutch nut. Any suggestions? it is right-hand threads correct? Does the transmission need to be in neutral for this removal process?

 

Did you rivet together a plain plate and a fiction plate, or was it just two plates of the same type? Your tool has to engage both the inner and outer baskets in order to keep them from turning.

 

Yeah, I'm smart enough to know that lol. I've done this before (bigfitz was kind enough to send me the extra plates last time I did this, free of charge) and I've been around the block with these bikes. My "message count" just doesn't portray it.

The clutch boss and hub are turning together, slowly, with each momentum I give the rachet to try to break the center nut loose. I don't have an impact wrench but can acquire one by the end of the week. Just thought I'd ask for any other pointers. Thanks in advance

 

Everyone has brain farts. As a former machine maintenance tech who trained other machine maintenance techs I made my fair share, even though I was smart enough to know better


OK. I misread your post as only the inner basket was turning.
Put it in gear and step on the rear brake pedal to help with holding the clutch basket still.
If you have access to either an eletric or air impact driver, this would be a good application for one (removal only).