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Carb Trouble

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by ChaseP, May 16, 2016.

  1. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    Emulsion tube.

    Gary H.
     
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  2. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    Pictures of the CrazyGnat at church! :D
     
  3. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    The services here are long and rambling, but at least I have lots of pictures. I think I may finally be getting to the benediction.

    If any other pictures are needed, let me know, I have quite a few of the carbs in various stages of undress.
     
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  4. ChaseP

    ChaseP Member

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    I can't get the starter plunger off to save my life. I don't have a open face wrench thin enough to fit under the rubber head. Tips?
     
  5. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Use a thin screwdriver to pry the rubber dust boot off. It's probably hardened up, so you may just want to slice and peel it. Take the dust boot off, then use a thin-wall 6pt socket.
     
  6. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    also called the needle jet in some manuals.
     
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  7. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    +1.

    Gary H.
     
  8. ChaseP

    ChaseP Member

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    Everything recommended so far has been finished except the color plug. Just in time too with me moving to school next week. I'm going to attempt to start the bike later but unfortunately a main bearing went out at work so I'll have to up there a lot.
    How will I know when the fuel levels go bad again and when should I check them?
    How can I clean my exhaust? I suspect the reason only one cylinder operated the other time was because I had no back pressure so I would like to put them on but there is no telling what's inside.
    Let's say after I try and start it later after everything is clean and back on the bike and it doesn't ignite. What's the next step? +1 to the first one to say "clean your carbs again."
     
  9. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Once your carbs are thoroughly cleaned and set back up, it should be years before doing it again.

    My 650 was 12 yrs then sold, still going on that rebuild. Current bikes are at 6yrs or so, only its about time for shim clearances.... Carbs are fine.
     
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  10. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    What Hf said.
    Compressed air. Also make certain all slip connections that require "donut" washers and the crush washers at the head are tight.
    There are trouble shooting procedures for this. Battery, fuse box, ignition switch, run switch, solenoid, starter, pick-up, tci, coils, plugs...you get the point.

    Gary H.
     
  11. ChaseP

    ChaseP Member

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    Is my throttle tab bent it's not touching like the rest are
    Carb #1
    image.jpeg
    Carb #2 ( 3/4 look similar )
    image.jpeg
     
  12. TheCrazyGnat

    TheCrazyGnat Well-Known Member

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    Those tabs with fingers that enable with the top of the starter plungers? Those should be like that. That is not actually your throttle, it is for the "choke"/enrichment.

    Edit: sorry,I misunderstood. That one might be bent, did you make sure that it is located in its little groove?
     
  13. DrewUth

    DrewUth Active Member

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    Probably not bent, just not installed on the shaft properly. Loosen it's set screw to adjust it up a hair.
     
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  14. ChaseP

    ChaseP Member

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    It was defiantly bent. Laid the rod on a flat surface and I was able to bend it back to match the others. If I try to tighten it at all it would just return to the same position.
    The bike won't start. I think that the idle mixture screws are not properly set. Any good advice to do this? I tighten them until the spring was pressed (I think) and loosened them 2 turns. Just half a mm of light (if even) appears under the butterfly valves. Carbs are sparkling. Exhaust is clean of all the loose carbon deposits.
    Is there any prep I should be doing after putting everything back together like letting the petcock valve open for a time?
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2016
  15. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    You do want all of your enrichment tabs looking like #1 when the choke is off/ closed. There should be clearance between the tab and the bottom of the button head - if they are touching it is possible that your choke is not completely closed when you think it should be.
     
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  16. ChaseP

    ChaseP Member

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    There is clearance. But how would that make a difference since the choke must be on/open
     
  17. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    The choke should only be on when you start a cold bike, then after several minutes you turn it off.
     
  18. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The fork both lifts the plungers to open the enrichment circuits, and presses down to close them (in addition to the spring). If a fork is always touching the top of a plunger, then it's never really allowing the plunger to fully close.
     
  19. ChaseP

    ChaseP Member

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    First, my carbs do not have shoulders for the emulsion tube jet to sit on. Second, is the diaphragm needle supposed to set into the jet cause it doesn't seem to be long enough image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
  20. ChaseP

    ChaseP Member

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    My carb never had springs on the rod. I meant to ask about that earlier but my memory failed. I bent them so all of them have a slight clearance.
     

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