Carb Trouble

Emulsion tube.

Gary H.

 

Pictures of the CrazyGnat at church!

 

The services here are long and rambling, but at least I have lots of pictures. I think I may finally be getting to the benediction.

If any other pictures are needed, let me know, I have quite a few of the carbs in various stages of undress.

 

I can't get the starter plunger off to save my life. I don't have a open face wrench thin enough to fit under the rubber head. Tips?

 

Use a thin screwdriver to pry the rubber dust boot off. It's probably hardened up, so you may just want to slice and peel it. Take the dust boot off, then use a thin-wall 6pt socket.

 

also called the needle jet in some manuals.

 

+1.

Gary H.

 

Everything recommended so far has been finished except the color plug. Just in time too with me moving to school next week. I'm going to attempt to start the bike later but unfortunately a main bearing went out at work so I'll have to up there a lot.
How will I know when the fuel levels go bad again and when should I check them?
How can I clean my exhaust? I suspect the reason only one cylinder operated the other time was because I had no back pressure so I would like to put them on but there is no telling what's inside.
Let's say after I try and start it later after everything is clean and back on the bike and it doesn't ignite. What's the next step? +1 to the first one to say "clean your carbs again."

 

Once your carbs are thoroughly cleaned and set back up, it should be years before doing it again.

My 650 was 12 yrs then sold, still going on that rebuild. Current bikes are at 6yrs or so, only its about time for shim clearances.... Carbs are fine.

 

What Hf said.

Compressed air. Also make certain all slip connections that require "donut" washers and the crush washers at the head are tight.

There are trouble shooting procedures for this. Battery, fuse box, ignition switch, run switch, solenoid, starter, pick-up, tci, coils, plugs...you get the point.

Gary H.

 

Is my throttle tab bent it's not touching like the rest are
Carb #1

Carb #2 ( 3/4 look similar )

 

Those tabs with fingers that enable with the top of the starter plungers? Those should be like that. That is not actually your throttle, it is for the "choke"/enrichment.

Edit: sorry,I misunderstood. That one might be bent, did you make sure that it is located in its little groove?

 

Probably not bent, just not installed on the shaft properly. Loosen it's set screw to adjust it up a hair.

 

It was defiantly bent. Laid the rod on a flat surface and I was able to bend it back to match the others. If I try to tighten it at all it would just return to the same position.
The bike won't start. I think that the idle mixture screws are not properly set. Any good advice to do this? I tighten them until the spring was pressed (I think) and loosened them 2 turns. Just half a mm of light (if even) appears under the butterfly valves. Carbs are sparkling. Exhaust is clean of all the loose carbon deposits.
Is there any prep I should be doing after putting everything back together like letting the petcock valve open for a time?

 

You do want all of your enrichment tabs looking like #1 when the choke is off/ closed. There should be clearance between the tab and the bottom of the button head - if they are touching it is possible that your choke is not completely closed when you think it should be.

 

There is clearance. But how would that make a difference since the choke must be on/open

 

The choke should only be on when you start a cold bike, then after several minutes you turn it off.

 

The fork both lifts the plungers to open the enrichment circuits, and presses down to close them (in addition to the spring). If a fork is always touching the top of a plunger, then it's never really allowing the plunger to fully close.

 

First, my carbs do not have shoulders for the emulsion tube jet to sit on. Second, is the diaphragm needle supposed to set into the jet cause it doesn't seem to be long enough

 

My carb never had springs on the rod. I meant to ask about that earlier but my memory failed. I bent them so all of them have a slight clearance.

 

Did you do this? ^^^^^

Going back to the beginning of this thread, I found it difficult to get through the first page.
Chase -for a broke college student trying to revive his grandfather's beloved XJ, there are several key conditions that MUST be met to succeed.
Pay attention and follow through with advice that is given, provide articulate and logical questions/ answers.
Re-read your posts before clicking the reply button - often times the author of a written piece fully understands the point that he/she is trying to get across; but the audience is left making assumptions. Read the reply out loud and imagine you are seven years old - does the statement make sense to you? Will the statement make sense to someone who is not you?

We want you to succeed, but with out meticulous attention to detail and proper follow through of advice given the goal of having your grandfather's XJ restored to its former glory will not be achieved.

{plagiarizing Kmoe}
Did you go to Church and read the lengthy (yet very important) Information Overload Hour and do you understand what lies ahead?
Yes or no?

 

Yeah. As stated earlier I did everything except the colorplug tune. All I need is washers for my main jet. Can I get these washers without ordering specialty parts?

 

The springs are on the enrichment plungers. You would have seen them when you followed the Church of Clean instructions about how to service your carbs.

 

How did this pan out? Did you get it running?

 

that will clear your jets!

 

those washers are copper I think old ones can be flattened and anneled

 

I saw the dates, I just wanted to know if he got it figured out.

 

Ok

 

Given that he was in college, it's likely that the bike is sitting in a shed until he has money again.

 

Bummer, I hate cliff hangers.