1982 XJ650 Maxim Build

not in on and he didn't need a cone.....

 

While I have the rear end tore apart I decided to re-finish the grab rail. I was just going to paint it but decided to make it shiny instead. I guess there was a clear coat on it before that was coming off so it looked like crap. So I sanded, scuffed, and buffed till I got this.

IMG_1528 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1527 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

How'd the install of the MAC exhaust go? My original exhaust looks the same as yours so I've been considering going that route when the tone comes, but have read other have had issues with them not lining up right.

Great work so far, looking forward to seeing the finished product!

 

Install went pretty straight forward, the only figment issue I see is the mufflers are really close to the axle and nut in the back but they clear when secured to the brackets, the mufflers are pretty tight fit into the headers also but that's good for leaks.

 

Got the rear wheel put back on with a new brake shoes, bearings, changed the gear oil in the final drive, and progressive shocks. Also painted the drum cover, the final drive, touched up some rust spots on the swingarm and frame where the swingarm connects, and polished the rim.

IMG_1533 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1534 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

Then pulled the headlight off to clean up the wires for my new bars and decided I need to go ahead and order new gauges.

IMG_1540 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

I believe I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, have the bars and gauges to finish up, clean up and dip the rear fender to match front and tank, fine tuning the carbs, and possibly recover the seat.

 

Justin, your bike is really being refurbed very nicely.
You are either single, or have a VERY understanding spouse, or work at the speed of light because your attention to detail has not gone unnoticed and that can take up a good chunk of time.

 

Yes, that's what separates the men from the boys............

 

Well it's a combination, my wife is understanding to a point ad I believe I'm getting close to it, plus I get most of the painting stuff done while I'm at work. We have a warehouse with a nice exhaust fan in one section so I take my breaks and lunch to go over there and get painting done.

Thanks, I think I can make it look decent but the one eyesore is going to be the finish on the motor. I really didn't want to pull it to blast and re-finish so that's going to be the one spot lacking attention.

 

Need help.

I'm trying to do a running synch on my carbs now and it's not going as easy as I see online in the videos and such.

I have a 4 gauge synchronizer and i have the YICS tool from chacal but I don't seem to be getting anywhere. I got the bike warmed up and running off choke and everything seems to be good. Then I put the YICS tool in and I keep getting different readings. I had to adjust the idle screw to bring it back up as that dropped the idle. I'm getting like 5psi on #2 and 10psi on 1 and I tun the synch screw and the vacuum doesn't change the idle slows down and it wants to stall and I hear little backfiring. I tried going both ways with the screw and can't bring the readings together. Also when I blip the throttle now it kinda hangs and then slowly drops back down.

 

Made some Videos

 

Step one: take the yics tool and put it on a shelf in the garage.
Step two: forget where the thing is.
Step three: tune the bike to run as is will be run, no yics tool!

I've always found it odd that we're supposed to tune the carbs in this way, where they are optimized for a condition in which they will not be used.

 

I don't know YICS.
But the idle hanging after a throttle blip can be the out of synch condition or a vacuum leak.
The backfire (from what I know) is usually indicative of a lean condition.

 

Thanks, It seems to run fine without the tool I was only having the backfires with the tool, I'm moving onto color tune now and then maybe I'll come back to the synch.

Color tune is turn until orange then back a hair to blue right?

 

like this

 

So here's how she sounds after the color tune. I think all the colors were basically the same I adjusted probably 1/2 turn out from the recommended 2.5 turns out on each cylinder to richen them up a little.

 

Tool isn't sealing. Shelf it and synch without.

orange is too rich.
white is too lean
Bunsen-blue is perfect.

Go rich to bunsen if you want extra cooling. Go lean to bunsen if you want optimum fuel economy.

Set idle mixture, THEN synch.

She sounds good so far. She'll purrrrrr once synched.

 

Is it the same procedure to synch without the tool, don't they all have the same vacuum at that point?

I did my color tuning with the tool installed. Should I re-c0lor tune and then synch without the tool?

 

So spent some of the day today cleaning up a few ods and ends. Cleaned up and painted the foot pegs and polished the rear brackets and brake lever.

Before:
IMG_1545 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

After:
IMG_1546 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1547 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1548 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

Yes the synching procedure is the same. No they will not all have the same vacuum without using the YICS block-off tool. How much vacuum is pulled is a function of each individual cylinder and each individual throttle plate. The YICS passages are quite small and do not automaticaly cause the vacuum to be balanced at each carb; if it did, then you'd never need to synch the carbs.

You won't need to readjust the idle mixtures, though you can if you want to.

 

Thanks, also about what level of vacuum should I see. On my gauges I was getting around 5-8 psi at idle and it says that this is low and should be getting more. The gauge says in that range I have late valve timing a leak at intake manifold or heat riser. It shows normal as 18-23 psi.