1982 XJ650 Maxim Build

Step one: take the yics tool and put it on a shelf in the garage.
Step two: forget where the thing is.
Step three: tune the bike to run as is will be run, no yics tool!

I've always found it odd that we're supposed to tune the carbs in this way, where they are optimized for a condition in which they will not be used.

 

I don't know YICS.
But the idle hanging after a throttle blip can be the out of synch condition or a vacuum leak.
The backfire (from what I know) is usually indicative of a lean condition.

 

Thanks, It seems to run fine without the tool I was only having the backfires with the tool, I'm moving onto color tune now and then maybe I'll come back to the synch.

Color tune is turn until orange then back a hair to blue right?

 

like this

 

So here's how she sounds after the color tune. I think all the colors were basically the same I adjusted probably 1/2 turn out from the recommended 2.5 turns out on each cylinder to richen them up a little.

 

Tool isn't sealing. Shelf it and synch without.

orange is too rich.
white is too lean
Bunsen-blue is perfect.

Go rich to bunsen if you want extra cooling. Go lean to bunsen if you want optimum fuel economy.

Set idle mixture, THEN synch.

She sounds good so far. She'll purrrrrr once synched.

 

Is it the same procedure to synch without the tool, don't they all have the same vacuum at that point?

I did my color tuning with the tool installed. Should I re-c0lor tune and then synch without the tool?

 

So spent some of the day today cleaning up a few ods and ends. Cleaned up and painted the foot pegs and polished the rear brackets and brake lever.

Before:
IMG_1545 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

After:
IMG_1546 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1547 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1548 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

Yes the synching procedure is the same. No they will not all have the same vacuum without using the YICS block-off tool. How much vacuum is pulled is a function of each individual cylinder and each individual throttle plate. The YICS passages are quite small and do not automaticaly cause the vacuum to be balanced at each carb; if it did, then you'd never need to synch the carbs.

You won't need to readjust the idle mixtures, though you can if you want to.

 

Thanks, also about what level of vacuum should I see. On my gauges I was getting around 5-8 psi at idle and it says that this is low and should be getting more. The gauge says in that range I have late valve timing a leak at intake manifold or heat riser. It shows normal as 18-23 psi.

 

I don't use the YICS tool......I have one----somewhere. I don't know where it is----don't really care other than that its brand new and still In the package.

 

Equal on all gauges. You can't compare to a guide that's written for automobiles (heat riser was the giveaway). The lower vaccum numbers are because of the YICS ports. You effectively have three small vacuum leaks at each carb, but that's on purpose.

Can't remember; you did check valve clearances?

 

Yep did the valves they were all out before. So as long as they are equal doesn't matter the number.

 

Correct.

 

I have another question while I'm thinking about it. It it normal for the XJ to have "indexed steering"? I have noticed that the steering kind of snaps to center. Never had a bike that did this before.

 

Not good. Your steering stem bearings need to be serviced/replaced.

The 'notch' is due to 1 of 2 things:''

1. The balls have sat in one position for so longs that they have created 'dimples' in the races

2.. The balls haven't created 'dimples', but the great has hardened and there are dimples and ripples in the caked up grease.

If you're lucky, you can clean the races and the balls, and re-use. But the reality is, that if you're in there, then the best thing would be to pull the races and install tapered bearings. You'll never need to replace those again......

 

Put the bike on the center stand. Put about 50 pounds of weight on the seat so the front wheel is off the ground. Center the bars; they should stay in place. Lightly press the end of one bar with your index finger: they should flop to the opposite side quickly. There should be no "notchiness" when you move the bars.
I strongly suspect that you are in dire need of new headstock bearings. Chacal has the correct set of roller bearings in stock. You could also replace with the OEM set if you like (but the rollers are better).

 

I did this test and the bars flopped over with no problems or notchiness. I guess I'm just not used to a bike having the bars stay in place in the center. When ever you lifted the wheel on my Harley off the ground the bars would automatically flop to the left. I'm going to ride it a while and see how they feel and maybe look into replacing the head bearings down the road.

 

So I re-visited the carb synch today. Got them all even at around 8.5 inches whatever that means.

IMG_1549 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr



Also got my new clutch lever in from chacal and got that installed. I may have an issue with the clutch though. I tried pulling the clutch and popping it in gear and it pops right into gear but the tire immediately starts spinning, I have the adjuster almost all the way out for the most pull on the lever and it seems like it's not disengaging the clutch.

 

The rear wheel will spin with the engine running and the clutch pulled in. The oil spins the plates just like in a torque converter.

She's sounding sweet now.

When you say that the bike snaps back to center, is this you steering quickly (it is a sportier bike than even a Sportster), or does it take a bit of effort to turn just a bit (like a lane change) and then want to snap back?

 

No it doesn't snap back, it will stay to which side you turn it. I can push it over with one finger to move it off center, just never had a bike that held center before. Hell I might as well go ahead and change over to the tapered bearings while it's still winter and never have to worry about them again. Just sucks I already put the front end back together and now I have to take it back apart. Probably go ahead and order clutch plates too since I don't know what kind of oil the po used and they have been sitting half dry for years.

 

21.59 cm

 

0.042929293 rod

 

I meant when you're riding.

Mine held center easily while riding (not a good thing) instead of self-centering by gyroscopic action (it feels different). I found very lightly notched bearing races when I tore the front end down.

 

I think they were bad. I went ahead and tore them apart to do a visual.

IMG_1551 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1552 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1556 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

You can defiantly see little groves where the balls were sitting in the races. New All Balls tapered bearings are on order, along with new friction plates and springs for the clutch.

 

Yep. notched and knackered. Not being re-greased for 30 years is what causes most of that. Nobody bothered to do the required maintainance.

 

So I got my bearings in today and put the new All Balls tapered bearings in. Put everything back together and wow is it a lot smoother than before. There is not notch at center and the bars move effortlessly.

IMG_1566 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1567 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

You can see the frost on the stem as I put it in the freezer this morning for easy install.
IMG_1565 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1569 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

Also put the rear fender back on after paint.
IMG_1573 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

And wired up my new gauges.

Heres the diode splice for the turn signals.
IMG_1561 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr
IMG_1562 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

Soldered the wires onto the factory connectors
IMG_1563 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

End result
IMG_1572 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

Looks nice! Personally I would ditch the goofy (IMHO) switch cover and get a nice chrome bolt for the stem.

 

Got my front fender, tank, and covers put on. Decided to ride down the street since it's so nice today. She runs good, I do notice a hesitation down between 2-3k but after that she wakes up and pulls nicely. Do these bikes have a Rev limiter and if not what's the redline?

 

There is a mechanical rev-limiter; a valve dropping into the cylinder, or a connecting rod letting loose.

The rev limit is 9,500 RPM (see the pics of your original tach).

There should not be any hesitation at any RPM. You should have a smooth and docile engine below 5,000 RPM, and a hard-pulling monster above that.
What air filter are you using?
Is the intake snorkel in the airbox lid?

 

Using the K&N Drop in filter and if the snorkel is the upward facing little wedge thingy at the back of the airbox then yes.

 

Also I didn't put any air in the forks when I rebuilt them and the front seemed to squat a lot I think I remember reading somewhere on here it should be around 17psi? Does anyone know of a 90° hand pump that fits? I know the one I had for the Harleys air ride was a straight on connection and the bars on this bike will get in the way. Guess you can remove the bars but that's kinda crappy to have to do that to adjust air shocks.

 

The K&N explains the bog. You're lean until you get on the mains. Bump the pilot jets up by 1 (maybe 2), or put in a paper filter.

I use a bicycle pump on my air fittings, and a pencil gauge to check the pressure (same kit as I keep on the bike for flats). For a solo rider you want between 6 and 12 psi. 17 psi is the maximum.

 

I did bump the pilots by 1 and the mains by 1 when I got the K&N and exhaust. I'm at 41 and 112 now. Think the pilots need to go to 42? I colortuned it a little on the rich side of blue also.

 

You have a bog, You have a K&N. An EMGO paper filter is around $15. Drop one in and see the bog go away.
Since you did the K&N and the exhaust you should have bumped pilots and mains by two for the filter, and +4 for the 4-1 exhaust, for a total of +6 as a baseline (further bumps may be needed).
For refrence I just took care of a Virago that had a lean bog due to an aftermarket exhaust being fitted (stock filter). I ended up bumping the mains by 2 and the pilots by 6 (yes that's a bit weird, but that's what the plugs told me to do) before it got back to running correctly.

Your color tune is great at idle. Your bog is not at idle, and the lean condition comes from the jets not being able to meter enough fuel when the incoming volume of air increases.

My suggestion is to buy an EMGO paper filter (they cost around $15) to replace the K&N and see if just that change is enough to get rid of the bog. The numbers say that it won't, but it's a lot less cost and work than changing the jets.

Have you done any mid or high-RPM plug chops to see if the mains are dialed in?

 

I have the paper filter that was in the bike when I got it, I'll give it a try. This is the first time I have ridden it and it was just up and down my back street for 5 minutes. I don't have tags on it yet, the title was transferred from the PO to my father in KY, still waiting on it to be mailed to him so we can transfer to me in Ohio and I can get tags.

 

I followed Chacal's guide and did the math. It's a 4-2 exhaust not 4-1 and the K&N according to his write up I went +2 on the mains (112) and +1 pilot (41)

I must have thrown the paper filter that was in there away because I can't find it now so I ordered a new one to see if that will fix the problem. I got it out again today and rode around the sub division and it seemed worse than yesterday. Idles great and pulls like mad above 3K but 1-3K really boggy and I actually had to choke it a little to even get it rev up to 3k instead of wanting to die. I'll see if the paper filter fixes it and if not I guess i'll try and bump the pilots by 2 more up to 43 and see what that does.

 

What do the plugs look like?

 

I'll pull them later or in the morning and take a look, gonna spend some time with the wife and kids tonight. They still only have about 10 minutes of riding, is that enough?

 

I wouldn't do that (yet). It almost sounds like it's too rich (at least at off-idle). Try riding it around, after it has warmed up, with the choke just slightly on, and see if that off-idle to 3K bog goes away (or, gets worse). If it goes away, then it sounds like an internal carb problem (clogged passages, floats set way too low). If it gets worse, then you've got an overly-rich issue....

 

Yeah that's what I did tonight, just barely choked it and the bog gets better or goes away.

 

Okay, try it again tomorrow to make double-dutch sure that the application of choke "solves" the off-idle bog. If the result can be duplicated, then it's time to troubleshoot the LEAN off-idle issue.

 

Verified a little choke solves the off idle bog.

 

Got my new seat cover in and installed last night.

IMG_1581 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

I just found this post and I'm loving it -- keep it up and please keep sharing the pics/projects. I'm putting together an order now to start working on my 82 xj650. You sir, are an inspiration.

 

Thanks

 

Also got my halogen bulb conversion headlight installed.

 

So the temp got up above 60° here yesterday, and I now have temporary plates on the bike, so I decided to take her out for a little spin. I have installed the paper Emgo filter as K-Moe suggested to try and solve the lean off idle issue. As I start out it's still doing the same thing and bogging down low from 1-3K and a little bit of choke solves the problem. I get a mile or so down the road and it seems to be getting worse, I pull into someones driveway and play with the choke and the idle seems to be erratic, finally get it happy and moving again and it seems like it want to die while running. I thought I only put a little gas in it and I was on the way to the station so I flipped it to prime (have to get used to going the other way, my Sportster was back for reserve this is forward) anyways after I did this the bike ran beautifully, no more off idle bog and the choke completely off. So I don't know if I had a petcock issue or coincidence that it just finally warmed up all the way. I stopped and got gas, filled it up, and switched the petcock back to On and everything was still good, no off idle bog.

Rode around town for an hour or so until Dinner time and she ran ok, it seems like it doesn't pull as hard up top now with the paper filter installed and before with the K&N. Now that the bog is gone down low, I ned to check the plugs and I might switch back to the K&N and see if the bog returns and if the top pulls better.

 

Are you re-jetting with K&N? I saw some comments earlier about going 1 up but I was curious to see if you found a solution. I have K&N now but haven't re-jetted.

 

Yes I went up to 41 pilot and 112 mains