Bend your ear ? 1982 seca 650

I went to start my 1982 seca 650 after I did my carbs new p pilot jet main new needles and now it's only firing on cylinders 2 & 4 but they all have compression and Spark it will start and it won't let on better than during throttle it will block it will not take off as soon as you engage the clutch it will stumble so hard and it wants to die all of this is with the choke disengaged

 

Does it fire on all 4 with choke on? If so, you may have a big air leak or the pilot screws may be closed too much.

 

There is spark and compression and the plugs are wet the plugs are all brand new could it be a synchronization issue?

 

Getting way too much gas if the plugs are firing but still wet. Did you do a wet setting of the float heights? Is the enrichment circuit leaking? Pilot screws could be open way too much.

 

I did not do a wet set on the floats but I got them to the specified height and you mean the idle adjustment is open too much because if you get it up too 3500 RPM it will smooth out of bed but if it's under load it will bog

 

You have to wet set the floats. The “specified” setting is just a starting point. Especially if you installed new float needles.

 

I did but they were OEM parts all stock how do you wet set ?

 

http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf

 

That was a good post thank you carbs are coming off tomorrow .. again

 

Thanks, Chacal. I was looking all over for that link.

 

So I adjusted the float hight ( out of spec) bike is running good on all four ! Thanks you guys but now my rpms hang on deceleration a little bit??

 

Did you do a running sync of the carbs?

 

No that is a job for Friday I have to build a bottle rig wich I have never done also after I put my tank back on my turn signal stays solid instead of flashing?

 

Syncing will probably solve the hanging idle. Someone else will have to help with the electrical issues.

 

I think it's just grounding out somewhere and did it once before but I can't remember how I fixed it

 

Be sure to use glass bottles--plastic bottles will collapse.

 

Could be the throttle cable, has it been inspected and lubed?

 

Cable was new at the end of last season

 

Should I sync them to the third cylinder or the one with the lowest pressure?

 

I believe it is the same process as my XJ550:

Synch #1 to #2 using screw 1
Synch #3 to #4 using screw 3
Synch 1/2 to 3/4 using screw #2

Someone correct me if my memory is failing....

 

With my two bottle set up I used 2 and 4 for the final sync, but any combination of using either 1 or 2 to sync with either 3 or 4 will work.

 

This is why I ended up with but it's airtight

 

That should work fine as long as the tubing fits tightly on the vacuum nipples and everything is air tight.

 

It's quarter inch internal diameter but I have hose clamps as well if need be

 

The first screw ajust carb one on cylinder one correct ? Seems to make no difference to vacuum

 

Cylinder 2 is much stronger then one

 

There are 3 screws. The screw on the left is used to sync cylinders 1 and 2. The screw on the right is used to sync cylinders 3 and 4. After getting these two set in sync, then attach your tubing to vacuum ports #2 and #3 and use the middle screw to sync the which puts all cylinders in sync.

While doing all of this make sure to hav a fan blowing to cool the engine.

 

No matter how far I go it does not a thing ?

 

The first screw is currently bottomed out to the right even if I open it all the way up turning it to the left it does nothing
to the pressure and the vacuum bottles

 

If you have the two tubes attached to the #1 and #2 vacuum ports and turning the screw between them makes no difference then either your two bottle manometer is not set up correctly (possibly an air leak), your starting beach sync is way way out, or perhaps there is a big air leak around the carbs. Also could be that the carb linkage is not set up correctly.

Try switching the tubing. Put your finger over each vacuum port and see if you feel vacuum. Unless your piston has a big hole in it it has to pull some vacuum. You might do a compression test on the cylinders.

Put your tubing on #3 and #4 and see what you get. Hopefully, it is something simple that you are missing.

 

I'm leaning towards the man I'm either having a leak I've sprayed starter fluid around the boots and there is not a rise in RPM

 

It's that srew is it not ?

 

That is the screw. I’m still a little worried about the size tubing you are using. Also, did you start with fluid in both bottles? It looks like one is empty in the picture.

 

The outside of the tubing is thick but the internal diameter is 1/4 and I started with two bottles that were half full and an it all got sucked into the second cylinder bottle almost immediately and will not disperse back

 

Ok it's moving now but it won't sit even it's very close is it but not equal

 

For the turn signals: are both lighting and not flashing, or is only one lighting? If only one is lighting, of course make sure the bulb is good, but also you may need to disassemble and sand/brush the spring and washer and any other contact pieces inside the base of the turn signal. If both are lighting but not flashing, check that the bulbs are the correct type (should be 27W 32CP aka 1156).

If they are both lighting and are both the correct type, then you probably need a new flasher module.

 

Getting the fluid level and constant takes patience and very small adjustments. It doesn’t take much to cause it to overshoot. Sometimes I thought I barely touched the screw. You will get the knack of it pretty soon.

 

They both light and say solid

 

the tubes look too fat to me. try some of that 1/8" vinyl tubing they sell at tractor supply or home depot. heat the tips to fit over the vacuum ports and seal the holes where the tubes penetrate the rubber corks with silicone.

 

And are 1156s, or equivalent, 27W lamps?

 

So since I tried to sync my carbs I have found a air leak in the second intake boot but I just want to replace all four but I can't find them anywhere??and I need the gaskets to it's my understanding that the left two boots in the right two boots are a different size?

 

different part numbers because of the mounting studs
try emailing len at www.xj4ever.com he should have them.

you can clean boots off with carb cleaner then coat with black oil resistant rtv this is what was done before boots became available. if you want you can also wrap them with an innertube over the rtv.

 

clean the bulb sockets and wiring connectors. the relay can be popped open and cleaned too.

sometimes a bulb will light and still be bad. or your connections in the headlight bucket are to the wrong connectors check the wire colors.

chocolat (dark brown) and dark green for power and black for ground



if you still have the canceling unit start by unplugging it

 

I cut gaskets out of gasket material I got at the local auto parts store. I would try the black rtv and then wrap them tight with self amulgamating tape. That stuff works great.

 

Just paper ? I thought it was supposed to be metal

 

JOINT, CARBURETOR 1 (4H7-13586-
4H7-13586-02-00


JOINT, CARBURETOR 2 (5G2-13596-
5G2-13596-01-00


GASKET, MANIFOLD
4H7-13556-11-00

not cheap but still available at dealer or partzilla

 

Not just paper, but gasket material for heat applications. Probably has asbestos in it, but easy to cut. As the parts store.

 

I'm going to try and save them if I can I'll post pictures of the damage tomorrow

 

What would you recommend I use to re bench sync my carbs

 

I used an index card cut into 1/4 inch wide strips.