1982 XJ550 Maxim rebuild

Oh yeah, I couldn't hear well for a bit after that. 9:30pm with the garage door closed. I prolly woke the neighbors up.

I am surprised at the throttle response and idle settle with it being a cold start. The mix is a bit rich as well so it should tighten up a little more and smooth out idle. It was sucking fuel fast and spewing blue flames. The exhaust ports were wet so it would have been back firing like mad with headers on. I turned the idle mix back a tad and will be putting new plug caps on before the next run video. The resistors are shot and the spark is weak so I think I can tone the fuel down quite a bit with new NGK resistor caps on. Next, rear wheel balance, chain install and re-torqueing all of the frame components.

 

per·se·ver·ance
/ˌpərsəˈvirəns/

1. persistence in doing something despite difficulty or delay in achieving success.

Hopefully the future is mostly successes

 

Gas leaks and runs have ruined the clutch cover paint. I just can't win!

 

It runs. You won. Cosmetics are just details that you can't see while riding.

 

Well, I spent a lot of time refreshing the bits and pieces. I would have thought "Engine Enamel" would not dissolve with gasoline once cured. I'm not pulling the clutch cover off again, it's full of oil now. I may just leave it.

What's the typical vacuum draw on the intake nipples during idle? Trying to decide how I want to do the sync.

 

No spec was given. Just get them even. match 1 to 2, then 3 to 4, then the 1/2 pair to 3/4.

 

Right. I'll just measure it. Debating about playing with some MAP sensors on it.

 

i put the tires on 5/4 deck board and used the side stand, pulled the clutch cover and didn't loose any oil. it was close though

 

So it runs. Until you put it in gear, regardless of clutch position. Hmm... I hear a relay clicking when I put it in gear, engine off. I also have no headlight so I'm wondering if the diode pack is fried. Lights work fine.

 

Is the kickstand down?

If not, you'll get that sorted pretty quickly I'm sure. You seem good with electrical and I believe you have the FSM, it covers the test procedures pretty well for that circuit.

 

lift the seat and remove the relay that you see marked with blue on connector. if it stops stalling when put in gear it is your sidestand switch

spray contact cleaner in the switch then some dry silicon spray

also sidestand must be up or bike stalls when put in gear. i use my sidestand to kill motor when I stop to park bike.

 

The sidestand switch is disconnected. It's sitting on the center stand with the side stand up. I'll check it again, though.

 

The headlight relay and the sidestand relay are cross-swappable. The symptoms you have indicate that the relays are not in their correct positions.

 

switch being disconnected does not bypass it relay needs to be pulled

 

That's probably the case. I'll check it after dinner, thanks.

 

Side stand switch was the issue. Looks like the clutch cover is coming off anyway. Pack won't disengage. All gears run and sound smooth though. Shifting is fairly clean. As others have noted finding neutral can be a pain.

 

It's normal for the rear wheel to spin when on the center stand if that is what you are seeing - there is enough friction from the oil between the plates to cause this.

 

I put my foot on the drive gear to stop it and it proceeded to eat the sole up and nearly rip my foot off. I don't think a small amount of friction on the plates would do that? I dunno.

 

The clutch is essentially a poorly designed torque converter when in neutral. There's a lot of force being transmitted to the output gear even then.

 

Try the rear brake, it should easily stop the wheel without stalling the motor.