1982 XJ550 Maxim rebuild

The studs from NL are in and are correct. The studs between 1-2 and 3-4 have been replaced, the front ones are correct with the plastic sleeve. I could not find the other OEM plastic sleeved studs anywhere in the world (online). I'm getting the other 5 from Len so hopefully the case will be ready soon. I still have to strip it and paint it but the forks and wheel need to be finished so I have a rolling frame again.

 

Well, since the only studs I need Len only has gold-plated diamond-encrusted OEM ones I cleaned the others up and stuck them back in. If they feel like they are stretching during break-in I'll have to fork out the cash. As it is right now I've gotta work with what I have. I'm going to re-use the rings, I can't justify $250 for a set of rings for a toy project when the bores are in stock shape and were not leaking. So, it's all going back together soon. Pics to follow and possibly a re-assembly video of the top-end. Sometimes, I just want to get it done and don't want to screw with the video, memory card issues and staging.

 

Well it started out well. Everything is still in OE spec surprisingly except for the pins. Only a tiny amount of play on the rod for 2 of them, hardly noticeable. Then I bent a ring on #4 because it decided to shift and hang up when I bumped the head down. No, I'm not using a compressor and on beveled and tapered jugs like this. You usually don't need one if the rings float properly and you take your time, plus they are a PITA to get in and out with the studs.

 

4" clamp and 4" PCV pipe will hold the rings. Or just the clamp its self, no big $ and easy to use. IMHO I think it is 4" just need to measure and make sure you get the one you need for holding the rings.

 

WTH man.. really? It is in the hole crooked! Tig and vice grips no match. Used wheel off ebay ordered.. cheaper than the machine shop. I swear this bike hates me.

 

Did you try the acid trick?

 

Acid is not going to repair those threads. That threaded aluminum hole is royally f'd up. The bolt was forced in at an angle. Torch, TIG welded bung and vice grips and still won't even budge. Ripped the cap head right off of it. $55 for another wheel with rotor shipped.

 

Alum will eat the steel bolt without further damaging the aluminum threads. Perhaps they can be straightened up, more likely not but then again you can also put a threader or helicoil in there and you're good to go for way less than $55. Not that having a spare rim around is a bad thing either.

 

What i meant was take 3 tabs of acid and you wont care for the next day or so... Lol!

 

Use a mig or stick welder, theyre hotter, get a nut that will just hammer on the stud, weld it, wait literally only 60 seconds, no more no less, extract stud in one fluid go, even if it tightens, worst case youll pull the threads with it, then you can heliciol, use or spare rim as per chitwood

 

Note on above, use lots of weld, get the stud cherry, heat transfer from stud to aluminum is what your going for

 

And im right off on the time, it seems like 60 but wait about 20 seconds... Sorry

 

I will test the alum at some point. I still have a gas tank that needs more TIG hole work and I still have to find another donor tank since the one I bought was not actually from an XJ frame. I will redo the used rim provided I can actually get the rotor bolts out of it. This thing is going to nickle and dime me out of a project jf it keeps up.

 

what's the plastic sleeve got to do with it ?

 

The plastic helps with corrosion prevention and longevity where water can penetrate from the top of the head. It also helps prevent galvanic reactions that eat it away if it's touching aluminum.

 

Ok, if you say so

 

Feel free to explain why it shouldn't be there instead of making pointless sarcastic remarks.

 

well i kind of think a steel rod rusts faster in a loose fitting plastic tube rather than open air. Are the ones with a tube any less corroded than ones without?
it will stop galvanic reactions if it's touching aluminum somewhere along its length but if that's the case, somethings wrong
maybe the plastic tube isn't necessary so they're not made anymore, but they make plastic tube every day
maybe it keeps them warm at night

 

They are rusted less on this block. The exposed ones have deeper pitting. So, it helped somewhat considering it's 35 years old.

 

Got new ring set in for #4, got the cylinders on. Prepared to bolt the head down and the head gasket I bought 3 months ago went MIA. Gahhhh.. Guess I will move on to tank #3 that just came in. No dents, correct model. Had to drill out the lock cylinder, no key.