Simmy's Naked Turbo Project

Thanks jayrodoh, what do you think is my best option to keep the self test function?
Can I splice the RJ diode block in just for the B/R circuit? Does that make sense?

 

You will also need the blue white (L/W) wire coming up from the starter solenoid or starter button. Do you have the RJ harness and connections? There are two B/R wires on that connection, I'm not sure which is which but one comes from the oil switch and the other from the light. If you mix up the B/R connections at the diode, you won't break anything but the start button will not light the oil light and the oil switch will engage the starter. I have an RJ so I'd be happy to look if you'd like and see which wire goes where on the pack connection.

 

Electrically, here is what it would look like. The resistor shown is in the diode pack.

 

I have both RJ & LJ harnesses so I'm able to scavenge and combine whatever is needed.
The LJ wiring is still mostly intact with it's own diode block and has the L/W circuit running through it.
The RJ diode would only be installed for the B/R engine/oil light circuit.

 

Okay cool, on my phone at the moment so I can’t really see that diagram but once I’m at my desk again I’ll see what you’re got. Shouldn’t be an issue to get to functioning!

 

Okay, I found a clear diagram for the LJ that has the pinout for the LJ diode pack. Assuming you are thinking about keeping both diode packs, I do not see any reason that you couldn't also run the L/W wire to the RJ diode pack as well and then connect the B/R wires as required (one to the sensor and one to the light). The LJ is currently using that feed through the diode to run the fuel pump until the bikes starts and ground the starter solenoid.

 

This suggestion confuses me Jay. What is gained by feeding the L/W wire through the 2nd diode pack?
I think I will take the time to clean up the LJ schematic to reflect the changes.

 

You’ll need a diode to keep the oil light when the start button is pressed. The current LJ diode pack is fully in use therefore you’ll need another diode. You could just solder one online somewhere and heat shrink it but I was under the impression you were adding the second diode pack to the harness.

 

How does this look?
It's the LJ schematic with the RJ tach, idiot light display, speedo, head light and tail light graphed in.
The low oil level switch is from the RJ which is normally open.
I've shown the RJ diode block between the oil level switch and the light display.
I need to add a green wire to the 9-pin block for the hi-beam indicator, conveniently there is one space open. There are funky things going on with the LJ high beam indicator which uses green and yellow wires. The RJ high beam indicator is easier to understand as it just takes the yellow high beam power and the ground. The yellow wire in the LJ hi-beam display is not the same and is actually tapped from the blue wire circuit.
I will not be using the battery sensor, boost gauge, brake fluid level, fuel level or the burnt head or tail light circuits, obviously without the CMS display.
I'm wondering about the solid blue wire between the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay, this was branched into the CMS display and is now open-ended.
What purpose did that serve?
@jayrodoh I'm still confused by your suggestion to take the L/W wiring through the 2nd diode pack?
I know just enough electrical to be dangerous, LOL.

 

If you are keeping the feature where the oil light "lights" when the starter is pressed, you need that wire connected to the diode pack to ground or"signal" the light to turn on. Without that connection, the oil light will work but will not light when the starter is pressed. The way you have the RJ diode pack wired in above won't gain you anything unless you connect the L/W wire.

 

For your purpose you can ignore this wire. As to the original function, I'm kind of at a loss on this one without having a bike to test, my best guess is the CMS uses this wire for determining if the motor is started but I'm getting conflicting info from various diagrams I can find online. On the full schematic and your diagram, I see the blue wire runs up to the CMS and connects to a white wire. According to schematics I can find, the white wire is the "motor started" input BUT in the troubleshooting diagram, the white wire is hooked up to one of the stator wires. Hooking it up to the stator makes sense as the CMS would not start scannign until the motor is actually started whereas hooking to the fuel pump it would start scanning the second you press the start button and the fuel pump engages. Perhaps someone with a running turbo bike could confirm for you. We'd need to know if the CMS scans through the icons once started or when the starter button is pressed.

 

can you draw this on my schematic? Maybe someone else can see other problems, I've never been this deep into my Yamaha before so I'm sure there are mistakes.
Scribble away, anyone.
I wired my BSA from scratch with the least amount of wiring possible for a motorcycle and even that kept me up at nights, just need to remember RED is ground.
Once this schematic is finalized I'm going to refit the harness to the bike before I shorten any wires, then take it back off and put the correct terminals on it.
I suspect the Turbo harness is longer and will need to be shortened.

 

@Simmy do you have a higher resolution pic you can send me? I downloaded your attachment but it is extremely hard to follow.

 

The Turbo CMS is a bit different in that it has a delay built in. It will start scanning after the starter button is depressed for approximately 3 seconds, or if the bike started right away the 3 second delay would still apply. If the bike did not start after 3 seconds of cranking and the CMS had initialized and started scanning, it would just revert back to standby when the starter button was released.

The wiring diagram for the Turbo shows a L/B wire for this purpose (not positive that is correct) but the CMS mating wire to enable the CMS is white, just like the Maxim and Seca models.

 

That is what I show as well and I believe the wire that @Simmy was referring to

Thanks for confirming! So Turbo has a delay and the Maxim/Seca would use the white wire to the stator instead.

 

That's correct

Try this - see if Jay agrees:



*Note: the Br (signal) wire on the 9 pin connector could be used for +12V power to the instrument bulb. The only advantage to splicing and using a R/W wire is that it can provide a confirmation that ignition power is present as depicted by the oil light illuminating when the starter button is depressed.

The resistor shown is typically 8.2 ohms and I am not sure why Yamaha included it

The high beam indicator bulb can work the way it is wired, but I suspect there will need to be some connector modifications to make it work. It was wired as above so it did not defeat the CMS filament check.

I can't really make out the other signal wires and pins (turn, neutral, etc.) so no comment on those.

Is there a reason as to why you are not keeping the original cluster? You probably already said but I guess I thought naked Turbo just meant no fairing??

 

@Rooster53 Yup that looks good. I was trying to find that specific diagram, thank you. All the online copies were low resolution to the point where they were unreadable.

X2 on this

@Simmy This diagram also confirms that you can delete the L/B wire that runs from the pump/relay up to the gauge cluster as it was only needed for the CMS cluster and not the RJ cluster you are using.

 

This XJ650LJ now has all the appearance of a standard 650 Seca - actual bike below;
I want the standard 650 Seca instruments to plug into the LJ harness. All the connectors are OEM XJ650RJC , turbo connectors are already hacked off.
The two bikes had all their connector blocks opposite, the Turbo harness has female connectors with male terminals on the instruments, XJ650RJC is opposite this.
The dash lights need alteration but tach, speedo and headlight will be plug'n'play XJ650RJC components.
I've re-attached my drawing (no changes yet but higher resolution), let me know if it is legible, it already has the connector blocks all designated.

 

If you open in paint its real easy draw on it in red

 

For the oil light you need to add (shown in white):

L/W from one diode pack to the L/W on the other.

 

you are awesome!
I have complete respect for anyone who can look over a schematic and quickly understand it.
Thank you.

My apologies to the hosting site, I burned my bandwidth allowance with all these diagrams.
Now I can list the parts I need from Chacal.

 

I doctored these changes and labeled a few things for final revision
It might be a good sticky in the DIY section.

 

Well that does look nice

So that includes mating connectors and terminals to adapt the Turbo harness to the RJC gauge cluster for a nice clean fit?

 

Just keep in mind that I cannot find any documentation on the pinout of the RJ diode pack therefore may have to swap the B/R wires if things do not work as expected. You may have traced this out already.

*edited to correct wire color

 

Yes I was able to salvage the connector blocks and any coloured wire from the donor RJC bike.
I'm putting new terminal ends on everything I've changed and trying to avoid splices.
It should look like a Yamaha wiring harness when I'm done.

I have just the RJC schematic, you're right they could get mixed around, need to keep that in mind.

 

So I am confused by this - the R/W wire and Simmy agrees? Anyway this should be the diode pack for the RJ - not sure if RJC matches so may want to check P/N for that.

 

Yikes, my bad. Long week I guess. I meant B/R wires, the diagram has a B/R wire for both the wire from the oil switch to diode and from the oil light to the diode. I don't have a diode pack in front of me to look but I'll gladly pull my headlight out tomorrow and see what the corresponding wires are if needed.

I corrected my mistake above but thank you for pointing that out. Hopefully I didn't confuse you @Simmy !

If rooster53 has the correct diagram for the RJ block, the G is the oil sender, B/R is the light, and L/W is from the starter button/solenoid ground connection.

 

I knew what you meant, I didn't actually notice you said R/W instead of B/R.
Here is a good pic of the RJC diode block and connectors

 

thanks Rooster, the pin out is the same, so I assume the same diode between RJC and RJ.
I looked through the supplemental manual I have for the RJC but couldn't find its P/N.

 

The diode blocks should be the same as long as the RJC has a sidestand safety switch and associated relay...……….

 

I'm not intending to clutter up the dash with a boost gauge. The OEM gauge was pretty much useless as I remember.
The needle swung all the way to the right with any amount of boost. Who needs that?
I do plan to buy a cheapie mechanical gauge and temporarily mount it for setting up the BoostValve.
An alternate fuel pump is all I still have to buy for this bike.
So that should be it for any wiring woes.
I'll go ahead and post the final plans. I sure hope everything works.

 

I have 2 boost pressure sensors.
Both measured 2.2V, so both within the specified range 2.0-2.3V at atmospheric.
After hearing the trouble @JeffK had with his measuring 4V, he cut it apart and pre-bent the strain gauge,
sure glad I didn't need to get into that.

 

the conversion to the tail of my bike is pretty much completed.
It is a fully restored tail end of the standard Seca now. Except for 2 x-welds everything is standard XJ650RJ.
The rear fender is in the best condition I've ever seen one.
It came from the same bike as my instruments and headlight.
I also have the seat from that bike but it looks like someone added padding.
I'm using another seat from a Seca which had just 6,000 kms on it. It's an original seat without rips
but I already have a cover from Chacal.
The wiring is still a big job in front of me. I was planning to route the wiring under the steering like the standard Seca but I just noticed the larger oil cooler closes off this route.
The wiring needs to go back along each side of the neck of the frame just like the Turbo has, this will be visible but lots of bikes are like that.

 

I showed this before where the RJ sidecover bracket fouls the Turbo's R/R.
There's really no concern with this, I can slightly wedge the plastic tray back to clear.

 

I took this picture last spring actually.
Isn't this the epitome of a cafe racer?

 

@Simmy did you remove the Yamaha sticker off the tail? I'm curious as my 82 650RJ does not have it either and I can't tell if there was ever one to begin with. The bike is in fantastic condition so I don't believe it just wore off.

 

I have 3 tail pieces on hand with original paint and none have the Yamaha decal.
My other Seca on my sidecar started out as the red one but I custom painted it 26 years ago. I can't recall if it had Yamaha across the tail?

 

Thanks. The decal is still available and decently priced but I’m on the fence if I like it there and I can’t tell if mine had it originally.

 

Bummer, my shiny XJ900RK shocks interfere with the 650RJ sidecovers.
If I trim just the edge of the cover I think they will fit.
I thought about flipping them around but then the reservoir will interfere with the seat when it tilts open.

 

I trimmed the sidecovers just enough to fit with the XJ900RK shocks.
They are about 1/2" shorter than the standard XJ650RJ shocks. Combined with 16" XJ700N rear wheel this should lower the rear end about 1-1/4".
A 16" FZ600 front wheel lowers the front just over an inch so this should balance out well.
I'm going to run Bridgestone Battlax BT45 as they come in 110/90V-16 and 130/90V-16, the same sizes the Radian uses.
I'm not sure about the finish on the pipes, it looks good upfront on the headers but too bright for the mufflers.
I do plan to mount different mufflers later, these do look bizarre.
I went with the RJ final drive just because the silver paint fits better with the look.
I don't think the Turbo final drive is any different ratio.
I boiled the carbs in my new UT cleaning tank and that turned them black.
I just picked them up from being vapour blasted so now they're ready for assembly.

 

some had them, some didnt. If you want to add one, LEN carries very good replacements.

dfox

 

i think the mufflers look fine. did you use simple green in the u sonic cleaner? it don't like aluminum

 

What I hate most about the stock Turbo's appearance is the 80's Battlestar Galactica style.
These pipes now look like rocket boosters from a 50's sci-fi movie.
My intention is to get it running in stock configuration so if they bother me that will be on the later to do list.

I used a WD40 brand cleaner with same result as Simple Green.
The vapour blasting made them look new again but it sure wasn't cheap.



I inspected the brake shoes I have and couldn't see any signs of separation.
I don't remember which ones were from the Turbo or RJ.
The dirty ones were OEM Yamaha shoes, are they the ones known to separate?
I installed the cleaner ones on the left, all they say is TYT Y515 and GENUINE so I have no idea what brand this is.

 

"GENUINE", sounds legit.

 

I think the TYT Y515 are EBC shoes. Yes the Yamaha ones were known to delaminate with age but I think it's possible for any shoe with age. I just replace them when I get a bike, cheap insurance for peace of my mind in my mind.

 

I got my seat back from the professional upholsterer.
I got the cover from Chacal and he also supplied a new strap but the upholsterer didn't want to attempt replacing the strap.
The rivets need to be redone, has anyone done this?
I have a like-new strap I removed from my other Seca but I can't remember where I stashed it.
The front-wheel assy is complete and just awaiting a tire.
The front-wheel currently on the bike is just a spare to hold the bike up.
I have 4 gas tanks but the one in place now is the one I'm going with.
There's a dent in the top which needs to be fixed and I need to alter the mount to accept the Turbo's petcock.
I need to get going on the carburetors next.
Then wiring, fuel pump, brake lines, just small stuff now.
I'm hoping to be ready to fire it up this summer to begin tuning.
The paint will be the very last thing I do.
Now that it looks like a bike again I'm anxious to ride it.
I think it will be the only one on the planet. A real sleeper.
I've read many times from guys saying if only they just turbocharged the 650 Seca instead.
Well here it is.

 

Looking good! You will be ready for this summer riding season.

 

this website has a calculator which will give you an approximation of your given tire size's diameter

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/tirediamcalc.html

according to this my 16" conversion lowers the bike accordingly:

front
OEM 100/90-19" diameter = 26.09"
now 110/90-16" diameter =23.80"
lowered by 1.145"


rear
OEM 120/90-18" diameter = 26.50"
now 130/90-16 diameter = 25.21"
lowered by .645"
+ .5" shorter shock
total 1.145"

funny that!

 

gearing is about 5% shorter

which means I need to spin the motor 5,255 rpm's to cruise with a stock Seca at 5,000