Simmy's Naked Turbo Project

Now that I'm this far into this bike my opinion is it's a better plan to do what I did, basically adapted the RJ cosmetics onto the turbo bike.
Its better than adapting the turbo to the RJ
The 2 frames are actually way different where the centre stand mounts.
A lot of this has to do with the Turbo nestled in there on the LJ.
There are some substantial brackets there you would need to replicate that hold the turbo.
Also the turbo won't fit the standard frame without removing the LH pedestal tab for the centre stand.
I did that on my sidecar seca as I'm running it with a turbo collector.
The turbo is not much of a collectible now but having a numbers matching bike is always worth more.
I wonder if anyone knows how many Turbos VS XJ650Rs were made?

 

I think that Turbo production was around 1500 or so (total for both years). The RJ's were much higher, and that's not even counting the "rest-of-the-world" XJ650 models which were, basically, the same as the RJ models (actually, that's backwards, as the R-O-T-W models came before the RJ did; the RJ was the "re-branded for the North American market" version of the ROTW bikes). Besides paint colours and minor electrical differences, the RJ's and the ROTW models are identical.

 

1500 units is very low. I would think they have to be collectables at some time.
Considering how many have been parted out on eBay I'm not sure how many remain today.

 

Not picking an argument but the production numbers for the 82 turbo were approx 3500 and the '83 at only 1500. A couple years ago on the Turbo board we estimated there to be less than 500 worldwide today. It has never found a niche w/collectors though....

Paul Miller up in New England, while famous for his Suzuki parts, sold a MINT 2,000 original-mile Turbo 2-3 yrs ago on ebay and and it barely broke 2 grand!

jeff

 

Still relatively low numbers. 500 remaining world wide is very scarce indeed.
I'm hoping mine will be the only one on the planet disguised as a standard Seca.
In a way, the fact they are not yet valuable lets me customize it however I want.
The fact that almost everything I'm bolting together is period Yamaha somehow keeps it authentic.
It will be the perfect companion to my 911 Seca-X at the annual vintage show.
2 650 Secas which are not actually 650 Secas.

Hey Jeff I read about your installation of the external check valve. I'm not sure I want to go that route.
I've read on the TMOIA forum one member has a fix for the OEM check valve but I'm not sure exactly what he does? I haven't actually pulled one apart yet.
I've also read about the 0-ring at the scavenge pump inlet failing which is included in my next order to Chacal.
Apparently that can also bleed oil to the turbo.

The turbo vendor did a brief inspection of my unit and said there is really no reason to open it up unless to de-carbon it.
I told him to proceed to de-carbon it and install new bearings and seals anyway. He agreed at 37,000 kms it is a good idea.
The unit had been cleaned by the previous owner and I'm not sure if it had been disassembled or not.
I expect it will be dynamically balanced/inspected when he's done.
It appears that oil pooling in the turbo was the only reason this bike was parked.
The vendor also said he recently tried G-Pop for replacement bearings for another client and was told they have no more. I got the last kit they had.
He adapted another cartridge from another model turbo to fix him up. With only 500 remaining it doesn't make sense for someone to stock these parts.
Chacal probably has sources,

Back in 84-89 when I had one of these from new I rode it 75,000 kms with very few issues.
I sold it to a buddy after that and watched him hold on to some scary boost induced wobbles.
Something was obviously wacked, most likely steering head, maybe just tire pressure.

 

This is probably more accurate. I was going off my dull-and-dim recollection at the time and perhaps having an Oldenheimers moment......

 

Yes, I use a 12V solenoid on my fuel supply line to prevent passing of gasoline and a very low pressure check valve on the Turbo's oil return line to prevent exactly as you mentioned, oil pooling at the turbo. It has worked perfectly for me.

I think that you're safe from the "purists" (which I am one) since there isn't a market for these bikes. Cut up one of these tanks and no one is going to cry. Can't say it was that way when a friend went to cut up a RD400 Daytona tank<LOL>!

Understand there are no "bearings" as such, what there is are tiny (14mm diameter or so) rings with an opening, like a piston ring. These "bearings" float in oil while thrust washers take up any ETE movement.

The TD03 kit for the 650 Turbo is the same kit for the Dodge Colt Turbo....Gerry at Gpop is the one who told me. The balance thing is very smart. They rotate at up to 212,000RPM.....if the balance isn't perfect, you get no reward(high boost).

I really love what you are building Simmy! A lot of us can bring a bike to like, less can do an actual restoration but you are building from nearly the ground up! Very impressive and great work quality too!

I regularly run mine till the safety kicks in and ends the fun at 21psi or so and have never felt a wobble sneaking it's way in. My bike is stock other than Tapered head bearings and of course my turbo plumbing but that it's, all stock otherwise.

jeff

 

I think the check valve you are referring to on the other forum is the Oil Supply check valve. Des redresses the seat for the ball, improving the action.

jeff

 

Yes that's the one. If that's fixed as well as replacing the o-ring at the scavenge inlet to the oil pump should eliminate any chance of oil pooling into the turbo.
I'm curious that you installed a solenoid valve in the fuel supply. Did you keep the mechanical check valve in the fuel supply also? I haven't read of any problems with that.

Thanks for the encouragement. Having my sidecar Seca around is a big advantage. I've already referred to it a few times to figure out which way something mounts. Also the chassis mods are the same as I've already done to my sidecar bike so no surprises there. The 16" wheels lower the gearing and quicken the steering. I just bought the stiffest fork springs from Racetech for the FZ600 forks I'm using. There were 3 choices. The turbo is at least 100 lbs heavier than an FZ and I'm no lightweight either.
My last project and what I'm most proud of was resurrecting a 67 BSA 441 Victor. A true basket case as everything was in bits. Later model parts were included which weren't even compatible and a bunch of Norton stuff thrown in for fun. Literally started by fumbling through the pile and finding everything needed for the crankshaft. Took me 4 years to complete. I'm much more at home with this old Yamaha stuff. The Turbo was actually my 1st street bike, really looking forward to feeling that rush again.

 

I always know when I"m talking with a "real" vintage restorer because invariably they will talk about their British bikes and never mention the complaints common to lesser men (a compliment). You know, like letting the smoke out of the wires, tickling a tickler and of course they never seal again, dripping gas on the tranny. Respect brother!


jeff

 

Dec. 28 2018 frame is all welded and now 10 months since my 1st post.
Now it feels like I have a bike instead of just an idea and a whole lotta junk cluttering up my garage.

 

actually 1 year and 10 months

 

Need some pics! I know the feeling, I’m about to tear into mine and will have that garage clutter again until done.

 

Nothing much to see since the last pic of the frame.
I did relocate the lower LH sidecover tab to clear the battery.
The LH sidecover will need to be correspondingly modified.
Hoping the RH side clears the TCI. This was something which should have been looked at prior to tearing it apart. Fingers are crossed.

 

nearly ready to see my powder coater.
Here's the before pic of my wheels, 16's front and back, 2.50" and 3.00" widths courtesy of FZ600 and XJ700.

 

Are you powder coating solid color? I'm about to drop my frame and other bits for powder and was contemplating the wheels. I like the painted/polished look but I haven't asked them yet if they can do that or not.

 

In my case the wheels will be solid black. The wheel patterns don't match and black is best way to hide that.
You can mask off anything prior to the coating process just like paint if you want sections aluminum polished.

 

Left everything with the powder coaters on Friday.
Most parts will be black but I left some stuff to be done in silver.
I’ve seen some chrome powder coating results which come close to electroplating but they don’t offer it. The brake pedal and drum backing plate are getting this brilliant silver finish.

 

how much are they charging you for the frame and parts? i have a few quotes coming in and i have nothing to go by.

 

These prices are CDN so not sure how relevant they are;
Motorcycle frames $325
Wheels (a pair) $325
Certainly more money than paint but more durable.
Everything is expensive, what can you do.