simple valve adjustment question

I swapped shims on a 650 maxim last year. Now I'm doing a 650 seca.
I forgot which way to rotate the crank shaft with the square nut on the timing rotor.
Is it clockwise or counter clockwise ?

 

https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bigfitzs-airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics-parts-i-ii.116006/

 

If you are using the Yamaha tool be careful because the cam can crack the head if the cam lobe is turned toward the tool. The guide I posted covers the procedure.

 

I use a 5/16" wide zip tie bent at the end and slipped under an
open valve through the plug hole. It works well. I wrap a short length of duct tape around the bent end to make a non slip surface. To keep the tape from coming loose in the chamber, I secure one end to the zip tie with contact cement
and apply a little to the wrapped end as well.

 

Turn the engine anticlockwise for all valves then since you are using zip ties.

 

1st time for me to look at my valves (1981 XJ550 Seca) - Just want to double check: there is supposed to be oil around the cam & shims?
Question: cylinder 1 leaks oil on the exhaust side, why? How can I fix that?

Thank you

 

Welcome to XJ Bikes. Yes you need oil around your camshafts and shims to lubricate them. Where is the oil coming from? Is it the cam cover? It may just need the bolts tightened slightly but be careful don't overtighten them. Check the simple things first. Once you post five questions on this you will be able to upload photographs of the oil leak which helps with diagnosis.

 

Do you have a tachometer cable where the leak is?

 

Do NOT attempt to "tighten down" the valve cover bolts, even slightly. Once they stop they do not go any further; exceeding the max recommended torque will just strip threads. In a strict sense, the bolts themselves are not what press the cover down; the rubber "donuts" on the bolts do that. Over time, these become baked hard and no longer press the cover against the gasket, so that even a new gasket will leak.

The best solution for a nice dry leak-free valve cover is new "donuts" for all the bolts and a new gasket. Once replaced, you will be able to carefully remove and replace the cover many times before needing to replace them again. Subsequent uses of the valve cover gasket may require a spot of sealer in the area of the "half moons" on the right side of the head.

Tach drive is over underneath #3, so that is probably not the source of your oil leak.

 

rotate the same direction the tires turn is an easy way to remember the direction.

when you do the shim check a lot of oil pumps up to the cams if you do this on the sidestand the oil will build up in the corner.
when you replace a shim rotate moter a few times before rechecking clearance to get the oil out from under shim.

650G fsm has a good photo of where the oil flows through out the motor

 

+1 If the threads strip out count yourself lucky. Several members have cracked the head at the bolt bosses by overtightening them.

 

Thx guys for the response.
Let me check my valve clearances and see how things progress from there.

 

Okay, here it is: I followed Bigfitz' description, well more the picture.
Measured the clearances and got #1 exhaust & intake shims out.
Per the chart and converting into mm, it looks like I am nowhere near any specs.
Below is what I got:
Exhaust: #1 .003in (.0762mm) Y255, #2 .006in (.1524mm) no shim # yet, #3 .006in (.1524mm) no shim yet, #4 .001in (.0254mm)
Intake: #1 .004in (.1016mm) Y270, #2 .003in (.0762mm) no shim # yet, #3 .003in (.0762mm) no shim # yet, #4 .003in (.0762mm) no shim # yet.
I seem to have a hard time figuring out what my shim numbers should look like.
Are my valves running too tight ( I think Exhaust #4 definitely is)
Can I please have some help with that?

 

ex1 tight replace 245 needed (edited)
ex2 good
ex3 good
ex4 very tight replace

in1 good
in2 tight replace
1n3tight replace
in 4 tight replace

I would advise getting a metric set of feelers you can see by the metric/inch overlap you will pass on inch but fail in metric.

 

I completed checking all the valve clearances and lucked out, they were all within specs.
The valve cover had a brand new gasket, the PO must have done the valves before I bought the engine

 

XJ550H, Thank you.
I will redo the measurement with a metric feeler just to be sure.
I was actually thinking of replacing all shims simply because of age.
Question, Ex 1 is at 0.003 in with a Y 255 shim - why do you recommend to go to 215?
Would a 250 or even 245 better?

Thank you.

 

Ex #4 has 0.001in with a 265 shim - I thought 245 would be a okay?

 

my error 245 is the correct size to replace
part number for feelers

 

Valve shims do not stop being good just because they are old. The do not get worn during use either (unless there is an oil feed problem).
Just change the ones the need to be changed, and swap shims around where possible so you don't need to get a bunch of shims.