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What did you do to your Yamaha today?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Cutlass84, Jun 4, 2007.

  1. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    Repaired the petcock, no leaks.
     
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  2. KVB_650

    KVB_650 Member

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    Obtained the registration for my newest project.
     

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  3. Marchy

    Marchy Member

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    Yup here’s mine winter fun land
     

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  4. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    Mine is still a frame..
    however, today I cut the front off the 900 seat so it would line up with th 650 seca tank I bought on ebay. I think it will al lline up OK, but I'll have to make some sidepanels in the seca style. Still not decided on a front wheel, the fj1200 one is going to be a bit of work, an xj900 diversion would be easier.
     
  5. StorminNorman

    StorminNorman Member

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    Recently picked up my first motorcycle, a well-maintained but not ridden for a few years 81 XJ650. I have slowly been going through it thanks to these forums and recently rebuilt the front brakes. About to start rebuilding the carbs so that I can hopefully ride it in the spring.
     
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  6. tkiss

    tkiss New Member

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    Picked up a not so well taken care of 82xj750 Maxim which will be a project/learning experience

    In the process of rebuilding the carbs , just waiting on a few parts for it .

    doing lots of research on here and gaining a ton of knowledge !

    Can anyone point me in the rite direction on how the speedometer cable connects to the front end ?


    120DEC3F-F02E-4422-8ECA-3180974F3670.jpeg BAB3A293-EEA1-4783-8E84-54028594B5D0.jpeg 0C1FB074-2F08-4F9B-9818-F3214B357248.jpeg 7FB86EC3-1464-4871-B4F6-2C35B4046719.jpeg
     
  7. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    That bike has a front end off of some other bike, XJ650 Seca perhaps (from the look of the calipers, but lots of other bikes used those same calipers, too). And that's why the speedo cable pictured (which IS the correct style/type for your model) won't fit that drive hub; that drive hub is designed for a speedo cable that has a sleeve nut on the end of it, and screws onto the hub (much like the other end of your current speedo cable, where it screws onto the speedo head). The correct hub for your bike would have a smooth, unthreaded stub which the case on the end of your speedo cable pushes onto, and then that flange with the hole in it is secured to the bottom of the hub unit with a small bolt.

    Easy solution: get a similar length cable that has the small nut on the end of it:

    These cables are slightly shorter than the original length cable (which is about 38-3/8"):

    HCP2719 OEM original SPEEDOMETER DRIVE CABLE, includes the bright plated metal sleeve nut on both ends as original, for all XJ550 Seca and all 1983-1992 XJ900RK, RL, FN, and F models. Wire length: 37-7/8".
    $ inquire

    HCP2653 Aftermarket SPEEDOMETER DRIVE CABLE, includes the bright plated metal sleeve nut on both ends as original, for all XJ550 Seca and all 1983-1992 XJ900RK, RL, FN, and F models. Wire length: 37-7/8".
    $ inquire



    While these are slightly longer:

    HCP2725 OEM original SPEEDOMETER DRIVE CABLE, includes the bright plated metal sleeve nut on both ends as original, for all XJ650 Euro models, XJ650RJ Seca, and XJ900N models. Service replacement OEM part is slightly longer (about 2") in overall length from original. Wire length: 39-3/8".
    $ inquire

    HCP2721 OEM original SPEEDOMETER DRIVE CABLE, includes the bright plated metal sleeve nut on both ends as original, for all XJ650 Turbo models. Wire length: 39-3/8".
    $ inquire

    HCP2662 Aftermarket SPEEDOMETER DRIVE CABLE, includes the bright plated metal sleeve nut on both ends as original, for all 1984-85 FJ600, 1986 and 1989-90 Euro XJ600, 1982 XJ650 Seca, all XJ650 Turbo, and XJ900N models. This cable is the correct length for XJ650 Turbo models, and slightly longer (about 2") in overall length from original on the XJ650 Euro models, XJ650RJ Seca, and XJ900N models. Wire length: 39-3/8". NOTE: does not include the protective rubber boot at the end of the cable as was present on some original cables.
    $ inquire



    Deeper issue:

    Is whether you can morally, ethically, and philosophically defend your decision (i.e. sleep well at night, look yourself in the mirror, circulate in public without the accompanying overwhelming shame, hives, facial ticks, etc.) in allowing this bike to exist in its currently mutated state....... :)
     
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  8. tkiss

    tkiss New Member

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    I figured the front end was original because of the handlebars but I could be wrong. Obviously the speedo part is not correct .

    before I order anything I just want to make art I can get it running and see where I want to go with the bike.

    It was free and yeh clearly it’s in pretty bad shape , not sure what the previous owner was thinking.
    I appreciate the quick reply.
     
  9. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Well, the handlebars (which are correct) are really related to the upper steering bracket; a lot of different fork tubes assemblies (and associated calipers) will fit into the stock steering brackets, the only requirement being that they are the same size (OD of the chrome tubes). Do the chrome tubes still have the "air system collar" just below the steering bracket? It's hard to see any detail in the long side image that you have posted....
     
  10. tkiss

    tkiss New Member

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    Doesn’t look like it has that air system collar.
    so your 100% rite. Someone messed with something here. Wish they at least changed the top triple clamp so I can go with different bars.

    F76DDA01-B804-4865-B8E6-50FA0020FC23.png
     
  11. Yammaat

    Yammaat Active Member

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    Or.. get rid of the excess material, buy locktite and screw it on?
     
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  12. Marchy

    Marchy Member

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    What I did with my xj today rant

    Let me start by saying this could have been avoided if I has listened intently to “hogfiddles”
    But I shouldn’t have had this disaster happen.

    Being a proud and enthusiastic new xj 750 owner I have been patiently waiting to remove motor from frame to do a thorough cleaning and little paint work......

    So here I go doing my due diligence reading watching videos going through manual to do this in the best possible way....clean and simple RIGHT!!!!!!

    well f me

    Get to what I knew would be a awkward section... the linkage between trans and swing arm ......4 grade 6 bolts from hell connected to what now feels like a Japanese finger puzzle. Yes is it easy to just brace the tire and stop linkage from moving to try and loosen these utterly ridiculous and poorly placed bolts.....

    but but but but what happens if you don’t use your brain and get a 6point combination wrench because Yamaha didn’t leave room for a socket........let me tell you......you loose your mind

    first I tried doing this with center stand up duh!!!!!......okay I got two loose somehow standing on my head

    then the ever so slight stripping started with the 12 point slipping and then slipping again........okay stop stop this will be bad......

    At this point I’m three hours in

    next fn day go out in search of the wrench of wrenches to save me.......

    does anyone know what’s one of the most common sizes for automotive 12 fn mm

    now I live in Calgary and you Yanks might think pift Canada doesn’t have anything.....oh you would be wrong I could make a space shuttle just by going to three suppliers yes supplier not Home Depot these are pro grade shops......and yet could I find a 6point to save me NO!!!!!!

    so settled for high end wrench with three point not sure what they’re called......

    needless to say I went home and got one more loose........and this is after taking it off lift and planting tire on ground now on my knees working on the bike like a jackass.......

    And sure enough the last bolt strips and is beyond help........

    And now it’s Saturday and the struggle continues now it’s finding a extraction method that will work.......

    basically f you Yamaha for not making as all things that turn a slotted area for a second pry area like routers and the like have......that’s my rant don’t forget to tip your waiters and always listen to hogfiddles!!!!
     

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  13. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    All in all I think Yamaha did a good job of putting these bikes together - just see how many 30 yr plus bikes are still around..
    Sure, sometimes they take some injenuity and experience to maintain, but it's good learning whatever.
     
  14. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    Nnnot quite, there is the trail (if indeed this is what its called) setting as well (ie how much in front of the spindle they sit at - seca and maxim are different here). Then you have different makers - width and trail, the stanchion diameters are quite common.
     
  15. Marchy

    Marchy Member

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    Achievement unlocked had to leave the knuckle on
     

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  16. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    These are useful if you want to take the damaged bolts out and replace them.


    Bolt remover.jpg
     
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  17. CavScout

    CavScout New Member

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    Geez all I did was get the ancient Dunlop off the front wheel. Girlfriend then washed the wheel (after I taped up the bearings to keep water out) as I went to the garage and pulled the rear wheel. Now as I have a beer, catch up and see others have been more productive so I'll attempt to get the old tire off the wheel too and see if she's up for cleaning another LOL
     
  18. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Well, I may be wrong, but..................if you leave the upper and lower steering brackets in place, and just slide in a different set of fork tubes, then the rake/trail will remains the same, that's really due to the angle of the steering headpipe. For those stock handlebars to "fit", you'd almost have to be using the stock upper steering bracket ("crown bracket") for the 1982 XJ750 Maxim; it's kind of a unique piece that allows for those adjustable handlebar stubs to be attached to it. Those are definitely "650 Seca" style calipers, and they won't bolt on to the stock XJ750 Maxim lower tubes; the bolt spacing is different. So my bet is that someone swapped the entire fork tubes assy., calipers, and wheel from some donor bike. Note that the 750 Maxim and the 650 Seca use the same front wheel, but they use different speedo drive gear units (which is why his stock speedo cable won't fit, as explained previously). I think (but am not sure) that the drive hub units can be swapped, so he could just acquire a 750 Maxim speedo drive hub and attach it to that wheel (but, the speedo cable swap suggested earlier is probably an easier "fix").

    XJ750 Maxim and XJ650 Seca use the same length inner (chrome tubes), but the 750 Maxim has a leading front axle (axle mounts in front of the centerline of the upper/lower fork rubes), while the XJ650RJ Seca has the axle mounted directly below the lower fork tube (as seen in the pictures, which is why I suppose the front fork assy. is from that model bike). I can't recall whether that change will make the bike more sluggish when turning, or more "twitchy", but it will definitely change the handling characteristics.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2020
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  19. Marchy

    Marchy Member

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    Tried but they come 12.7mm=1/2” didn’t take still it’s crazy
     
  20. Gonçalo Melo

    Gonçalo Melo New Member

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    Hello. Thanks for all the help I have been getting through this forum. I'm from Portugal and I bought a xj650 seca from 1980.
    Today I installed a new fuse box, because I have been having some problems with the bike, however the problems still remain. Tomorrow is a new day.
     

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