Beginner restoration of a 82 XJ550 Maxim

Hello world of wise and helpful motorcycle lovers. I'm embarking on my first motorcycle restoration and thought it would be fun for others and great for me to go through it step by step. I have some mechanical experience but this is a new test. We all start somewhere, so lend a hand if you can and let's get this party started.

It begins with a 1982 Yamaha xj550 Maxim. The end goal is to convert it into a cafe racer styled bike, while navigating things properly throughout the build as to not get in over my head, and doing it on a budget. The bike is pretty clean, it's been sitting for a few years and doesn't run. Checked the engine block and it matches the Stem VIN. (both are that short 9 digit type)

First Steps Questions: (links speak louder than words)
1. Can anyone find or point me to a great manual for this bike? From what I've researched that's a pretty good first step
2. First I want to get the bike running. Here is my basic plan for this first stage.

• Battery: What battery should I get for this bike? (doesn't have one)
• Spark: I'll plan on replacing the spark plugs and while I have them out should I put anything in there because it's been sitting?
• Oil: I'll change the oil, manual should tell me what type right? That should also tell me if there is any oil in it. If there isn't should I put some in the cylinder when the spark plugs are out and manually turn it over some?
• Fuel: Like most small engines I'm betting the main problem is in the carb. Probably gummed up from old fuel. I'll plan on following the manual for cleaning out the carb.

Is this a good first-stage plan? Anything I'm forgetting and any suggestions?

 

before you start spending money modifying the bike make sure the motor is viable and get it running
a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder woukd be good.
oil level is checked with bike on centerstand in the sight glass on clutch cover.

check the shims
Bigfitz's AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics - parts I & II

 

Thank you! So those steps sound pretty good then? Where would you tackle the shims in this "get the engine running" stage.

What do people think for a battery for this bike? (links are great)

 

I would check the clearances first many times you can swap around what you have and only need a couple of shims. this will give you the maximum compresion.
write down the clearances.

then ohm out the ignition system to see if it is in spec
this link has the ignition specs
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

it also has the charging system specs so you can check them out as well.
battery is listed in manual as to its numbers 12N12A-4A is the battery number.
wamart sells them or ebay has them. a gel or sealed , AGM battery from ebay is good because you do not need to deal with the acid.
if you get an acid battery from ebay make sure it comes with acid no need to spend a lot of money on one, most have free shipping.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=12N12A-4A&_sacat=0

the fuses box is likely junk and will need to be replaced an inline blade fuse holder works nice about 5$ each at hardware stores
or a full box .
your big cost is going to come from cleaning carbs and having to replace parts like the o rings and needle valves

then the brakes you will want to rebuild calipers and master cylinder replace pads and shoes.

 

if your bike still has the air box do not remove it wait untill you get motor running well then you can go to pods if you feel the eed to do that.

 

Here are some pictures so everyone can see what we are starting with. What do you think? I'm not attached to any future plans, you guys are the pros to know what I should do to make it awesome. First things first though.

Just ordered the first batch of things I'll need :
- battery (might have to get a different one if I do a cafe racer build...)
- some shop towels and carb cleaner and grease ("never turn a thread without grease on it" ole gramps )
- oil and oil filter (went with 15w-40 cause my weather is in between what the manual said?)
- Spark plugs

First step is checking the pressure, if electrical is all working then I'll head into the carb clean, then change the oil and plugs and see if we can get it running again!

 

looks like 650 blinkers on the back long metal posts . aftermarket handel bars.
looks good

 

Yeah I'm pretty happy with how clean it is for its age, we will see this weekend when I dive into the engine pressure how excited I should be. What pressure should each cylinder be at? is it 120 that I read somewhere?

And I've never tested pressure on this bike, what's the "correct" process to do it right. I'm assuming if the pressure is good then I won't need to mess with the engine?

I also had a question on the battery, can I use a different 12v battery (one of i have for a riding lawn mower) or a mini jumper box (phone sized jumper for my car). Can I use one or both of those to try and crank things over and start it up while I'm waiting for the battery that "fits" to show? I don't know enough about batteries to know if that is a potentially bad idea or not.

 

car battery lawnmower battery will work best
a video
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/compression-test-xj650.113151/

The Information Overload Hour has the details


XJ550 engines:
Minimum: 100 psi
Standard: 121 psi
Maximum: 135 psi
Max. variance between lowest and highest: 14 psi

 

Looks nice. Where are the front turn signals? You seem to want to jump right to the end and take off riding. Things you will need to do besides the compression testing:
Check and test wiring, connections and components. Information Overload Hour
Check valve clearances, yes you need to remove valve cover.
Remove and clean carbs, replace any parts needed. Check out the Church Of Clean
Followed by wet setting carbs, vacuum balancing the carbs and setting fuel mixtures...

 

Yeah the valve clearances and that last step of wet setting, vacuum balancing and setting mixtures are intimidating to me. I've never really done those. Any good resources?

 

How longs has it been sitting?
PERSONALLY, the first thing I’d do, if not sure, and don’t know if it will even be worth doing.........would be to pul the plugs, put some oil in the cyls, then try rotating by hand (rotate the rear wheel while in gear) for a minute or so to lube the cylinders.

‘Then, I’d put it in neutral, hook up a Battery and see if it will spin via the starter.

Then if it does, put a snort of gas or starter fluid in the cylinders, replace the plugs, put it in neutral hit the start and see if it’ll fire.

1. If it turns by hand, it’ll come back to life.
2. If it turns by starter, it’s even better.
3. If it fires, and runs for a couple seconds on the snort, then you’re good to go forward.

I would NOT do anything with valve adjustments first.

‘That’s me. I’m not too keen on doing a valve adjustment, without knowing if the engine will even rotate or fire up at all.

 

Been sitting for a year or two said the last owner. I love the clear explanation thank you, I will for sure do this first (I've kinda done it when I was purchasing but I'll do it again) and that's what led me to think it's the carb.

 

Okay finally got my hands dirty this morning.
1. Started by pulling the plugs and putting a little oil in.(little too much cam squirting out haha) Then I put it up into high gear and turned the wheel by hand which loosened up after a min or two. Then I connected it to a battery and had the starter turn them over which also worked.
2. Knowing the cylinders were moving I did a compression test. Left all the plugs out, Put it in neutral, open the throttle all the way up and run it till the compression tops out. Results were consistently... poor. Sitting on bike left to right I had: 100, 95ish, 105, 108ish.
3. While I had it all connected I thought I’d try to turn it over a bit with some gas in the tank.(fresh from guy I bought it off who tried) Put the plugs back in, turned it over a few times and got nothing. Wasn’t expecting anything anyways I was just cleaning up.

So what do you think? The compression is a bit low but the bike has been sitting for awhile too bad right? What would be the next step? I’m thinking pull off tank, pull off and clean carbs, change oil and filter, change plugs, and... try again? Should I throw valve adjustment in there too?

 

If it turns over, yes— time to rebuild carbs, clean tank/etc...., fresh oil, do valve clearance adjustments, Go through electricals, etc... to get it running.

once running, then brakes, tires, safety stuff.

Compression #’s are a little low, but they’re close together so I wouldn’t concern myself any more with that. As rings loosen up again and clearances gets into spec, the #’s will go up.

since it spins, proceed with gusto!

dfox

 

as long as you are close to the 14# spread things are good and will improve
rings can be cleaned with 50-50 mix acetone mix if things donot improve just a little down the spark plug holes and let it soak repeteing for a few days

 

Awesome thanks! I’ll move on to pulling off the tank, pulling the carbs, cleaning those out, learning how to do valve clearances, changing plugs, oil. Then we can see if she runs!

After she runs for a bit I’ll check the pressure again and see if it bumps up. At that point I could try that 50/50 mix.

I’ve always run non-ethanol gas through my small engines. I’m planning on doing that with this bike but just had the thought to ask. I think it just keeps the carbs sooo much better.

 

non e is ok to run

 

Had one heck of a time removing the carb! That was exciting and way harder than people made it sound. The airbox rubber was really tricky, mine would not push back like people suggested. I had to use a screwdriver and a hairdryer to bend them in and shove them down while levering with a wooden handle. Got it though. First times the toughest.(I hope!)

Also, when I took the tank off and drained it I noticed that it’s peeling inside, maybe the old sealer. Anyone have suggestions or links to videos and materials to clean it out and reseal it? If that’s what you’re suppose to do.

 

We all had to learn how to do those boots. As long as you didn't damage them consider it a job well done! Here is a link if you want to try to make them more pliable. http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13477
The hair dryer might not put out enough heat to make them bendy, I use a paint stripper gun on low and that works really well.

Take your time with the carbs, take them to the church of clean. Don't get in a hurry with them, you see how much fun it is to take them out and put them back in. Do it right the fist time, clean all the little sports and don't miss the small hole in the float bowl. Do a bench synch and all the good stuff.

How is the tank?

 

And don’t pull the boots out completely. Heat them to soften them and just push them backward into the airbox, but stopping at the last shoulder

 

With the carbs removed it is a good time to tighten the cam chain. Easy access to the adjuster.

 

Timbox Can you see that picture above? The outside looks good and I don't see rust anywhere, but the inside looks like it's peeling the sealer. As I mentioned above I'd love suggestions or how to videos if you have them.

 

from info overload

http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank

http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html

http://www.moreg.org.au/dissolving_rust.htm

http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/32838

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php...val-no-frills-easiest-fastest-cheapest.48196/

http://www.robertscycle.com/chrome-clean.html

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/teds-2nd-82-xj750-maxim-bobber-project.47929/#post-478002

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/rust-removal-using-molasses-90452/

 

Anyone have a link to a good Carb rebuild kit? I could see in building them out there might be some leaks. I figure that while I have it apart I should just replace the gaskets, needs, jets, etc.

or would people advise something different?

 

Contact Len on info@xj4ever.com for the parts you need.

 

Yup, From Len. I do not use ANY other kits.

dfox

 

Got the tank pulled off and planning to do a fish tank pebble roll around plus acetone or vinegar wash out?

Have the Carb in pieces and thinking of doing a vinegar boil for cleaning all the metal bits and pieces?

Just like checking in with the pros as I go. I noticed my carb didn’t have any of the little rubber plugs for the jet. Are those needed or am I good?

 

our carbs have no rubber plug on the jets thats a suziki thing.

 

Good to know!
Does my plan for the tank and carbs sound good?

 

Do whatever works to get the tank cleaned. Get as much rust out dry. Then vacuum, compressed air/ etc.......then see what it looks like. If it’s clean but rust ‘dust’, then give a wash with phosphoric acid (Ospho)to kill, neutralize, and ‘pickle’ the metal. No more problem. If the rust is flaky, then nuts, bolts, electrolysis, vinegar, etc.......

carbs- yup, break it down and clean EVERYTHING, and do a complete deluxe rebuild kit from Len on it. if you have trouble or get scared, I do offer rebuild services and you can contact me privately for details.

Dave Fox

 

Well here is an update. I've had fun putting hours in here and there taking apart the carb, cleaning it, starting to reassemble. The tank is another story, I tried vinegar soaking with rocks in it shaking around, and it wasn't really working... so I was thrilled when I called a local radiator shop and they said they could clean it for me (and remove the rocks, hey nobody said how hard it is to get that out! Impossible with the raised lip around the gas hole) Anyways, I had them take it and just got the call that when they dipped it and got the paint off they started to see that it actually was rusting out and in bad shape... holes, sealer pulling off because rust from behind, etc etc. Haven't seen it yet but it's probably trash.

Sooo looks like I need to get a new tank!? What do you all suggest? Im hoping to convert the bike into a cafe racer style. Just need a tank that will fit the frame and such, doesn't have to be painted, hopefully I can find one for a decent price? Thoughts?

 

some kawasaki tanks fit i will see if i can find the info look good on the cafe style

 

Yeah I'm just new to all this so honestly I don't care what tank it is, I'd just like it to be able to ideally bolt right on and fit without me having to do a bunch of modifications or metal work that I'm not familiar with. When I get the tank back later I'll send some pictures, I don't know if the tanks are salvageable or not and what my options are there.

 

Get a load of this. Talk about a nightmare. So turns out the dip didn't dissolve or take care of the liner peeling inside, oh well. Somehow and someway they destroyed the tank, check this out. I guess it got "pressurized" when trying to clean it out? uuhuh

So I think I'll have to get a new tank Please point me towards replacements, options, something. Save a poor beginner with terrible terrible luck in this case haha

Is there a special forum for really sad stories and crazy things? This belongs there.

 

You can post you need a tank in the "wanted" section or look for one on the "For sale" forum. Lots of members sell or part out bikes here. I am sure one will PM you soon. In the mean time is you have to buy an AUX tank to get the bike running and do the tuning it will be worth it. Something like this but does not have to be this one...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937761823...MIrJ2V9vzN7wIVYj2tBh2OIgMTEAQYAyABEgLuDPD_BwE

 

What the hell did they do to your tank?
I'm not seeing any rust perforations. Why was it lined?

 

I'm wondering the same thing. The inside had some sealer or something thick that didn't dissolve or come off in the dip. Then I guess somehow in trying to get chunks out they... pressurized it and exploded it!? Very very strange situation.

 

I hope you didn't pay for that.

 

@XJ550H You mentioned some other tanks that fit? What ones? I'm not attached to doing an XJ550 tank if there are others that will fit easily

 

Definitely not. I'm hoping that they help pay for the replacement. That didn't just call and say, hey it didn't work sorry, they returned me a destroyed tank!

 

trying to find where i stored that info. it was a kawasaki tank from the 80s

 

@Timbox I made a thread in that forum, thanks for pointing me there. I had that thought, of how I still want to keep working on, get it running, ride it around the block get some juices flowing etc. Can I do that with a little aux tank like that? Just use that until I finally get an option for the real one? Just a temporary tank that will work to get things running.

 

@Timbox I posted something on that forum thank you for pointing me there. Also I was wondering if there was a way to keep working on it and get it running, run around the block, get the juices flowing etc. while I am waiting to figure out how to do the tank. Would an Aux tank like this work for that? Is that like a big mistake or common thing people do to hook that up instead of tank.

Sorry it wasn't showing so I typed a new one then it showed up now can't figure out how to delete the post.

 

a lawnmower/snowblower tank works as an aux tank. Unless you can secure that to bike you couldnt ride around on it.



small 2 stroke tank
https://www.ebay.com/itm/80cc-2-Str...145291?hash=item4b8bed810b:g:kVIAAOSwaRdgFf2m

 

kaw tank looks close
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Kawasa...666649?hash=item23e53a6c59:g:900AAOSw-gJfl2AL

cafe with measurements
https://www.ebay.com/itm/9L-2-4-Gal...rand=Unbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

 

Got any plans for the front end and seat??

 

So the radiator shop said they could straighten out the tank and exterior of it (but he thinks because the inside is the way it is its not worth much) or he will pay me like 50 bucks to find a replacement. Thoughts? I just can't find a replacement that seems good without tons of modifications. And I'm worried that if I just use this tank with all that crap inside not even their chemical dip would fix, it's going to mess things up all the time.

 

first gen kz900?? Pretty sure the original kz900 frame's had a triple backbone like the Maxim/Radian.

Speaking of which, might want to consider a radian 600 tank if you're going for a cafe racer look. I'd imagine they're compatible and have a more sporty look.

 

Can anyone confirm Jake750’s idea? I’m down for a better or different looking tank if I can make something fit!