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How to remove intake rubbers

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Arnaud, Nov 4, 2024 at 11:40 AM.

  1. Arnaud

    Arnaud New Member

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    The intake rubbers/inlet manifolds of my 1988 xj900f show some rupturing (also in the inside)
    1 They seem reluctant to be removed.. does anyone have a tip?

    2 When i install the replacement, should i add an paper gasket between the head and the rubber?
     
  2. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    Remove the screws, know them off with a mallet. They have an o-ring for sealing against the new gaskets you install.
     
  3. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Hope you get them out without them shearing off the bolt heads.
     
  4. Arnaud

    Arnaud New Member

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    So you have to get separate hat-resistant O-rings, okay.
    Indeed loosening the Allen bolts seem to be the problem?
     
  5. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Lose of penetrating oil on them allen heads. Use a sharp flat strong blade to get between the two surfaces and slowly work around. If you want to reuse them, do it slow and not with so much force you will bend them and then cause air leaks when re-installed.
     
  6. Arnaud

    Arnaud New Member

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    The reason why i want them off is because of ruptures, also on the inside?
    Hmm so no quick repair then...
    New ones are around 100 euro's. From China a lot cheaper.. did anyone dare this?
    rubberstukbinnenkant.JPG
     
  7. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    Some have bad experiences with Chinese boots. From falling apart to vacuum tubes falling out.
     
  8. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Does that go all the way through? If I were cheap and I am....lol, I would use a soldering iron and see if I could coaxs them back down and seal that are. That or a flat screwdriver that has been heated up with a torch. Just a thought.
     
  9. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Will it work?

     
  10. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't look leak proof to me!
     
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  11. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    It will be as good as the Chinesium intake stubs. I wonder if the stubs could be cut where the bolts are just to free them (without damaging the head of course) and then use a Mapp gas torch on the bolts, get them very hot before trying to remove them. Use a Dremmel or something like that. Just an idea?
     
  12. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    i did exactly the same ,using 4" heat shrink tubing, but did a better job than in that video, he's overlapped it too much , i cut mine short of the mounting flange, and also used black silicone sealant ( rtv, i think you call it) around the round stub before shrinking it
    PA070130.JPG PA060127.JPG PA310142.JPG
     
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  13. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    When did you do that?
     
  14. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    it was on my cafe racer build i did about 2014
     
  15. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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  16. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Oh I remember it now nice machine you did a great job of that build.
     
  17. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    intake boots bit is on end of page 3
     
  18. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Do you still have the bike? Using RTV to fill the cracks and then the tube. I would do that before buying the Chinese stubs. If he uses the soldering iron as @Timbox stated and your solution that is better than snapping the bolts. Going to real your build again later. No wonder it took a long time to polish your engine cases. Great work.
     
  19. Arnaud

    Arnaud New Member

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    Really, then i will think spend some money on the real thing..
     
  20. Melnic

    Melnic Active Member

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    My biggest fear when removing anything on the intake or exaust side.
    I have been learning how to stick weld so that I can get them out when that happens. Now that I can stick weld, I'm certain it will NEVER Happen!
     

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