Cleaning engine head on bike?

I'm pretty sure that I have a leaky valve cover gasket because the head is full of oil. That's not a problem because I'm going to remove it to begin adjusting the valve clearances and I've got a new gasket ready to go.

I'm just wondering about the best way to clean that mess and the best time to do it. The depressions around the interior plugs are pretty ugly. The carbs are still off so that gives better access to the back side of the head but I'd need to make sure those holes where the manifolds attached are well plugged.

Plus, how do you keep from keeping all that crap all over the electrical system and everything else? I guess I can see a way that a person could wrap plastic around the frame and tape it up so that mostly just the engine would be exposed.

Any ticks, tricks, ideas welcome. Thanks!

 

I hope you have a new set of the rubber/metal composite "donuts" that go on the valve cover bolts too. They are what press the cover down, because the bolts themselves have stop collars on them. If you replace the gasket but not the donuts it will probably leak.

Yes, you can tape some plastic around the electrics, and stuff rags into the manifold holes. Depending on what I'm doing, I'll just wrap paper shop towels and tape with masking tape if need be.

I use Foaming Citris Engine Cleaner from the auto parts store; be sure it says it's for use on cold motors. Foam it on, let it sit, work with a stuff brush. Foam on some more until you get all the crud broke loose; then rinse thoroughly with copious amounts of LOW pressure clean water.

Go back and attack any really stubborn areas with bug and tar remover (the solvent kind) or mineral spirits, and the aforementioned stiff brush.

Repeat both of the above steps as necessary.

For stuff that's off the bike: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=22125.html this uses the same steps to get a part clean that would be used for a highly polished cover, too; then the polishing could begin.

 

Thanks again for your response, Fitz. Yes, I've got a complete set of the donuts, although I do need to get a socket with the correct size allen head so that I can use the torque wrench when reassembling.

As for the engine cleaning, I'm guessing I'll need to use a toothbrush around the plugs and then swab out the residue and water. Doesn't look like fun.

Your cleaning, polishing, and painting tutorial is excellent. I assume that it was an aerosol engine paint that you used after masking off the raised areas and lettering you'd already completed?

Thanks.

 

Yessir. I use Duplicolor "high temp" Engine Enamel; the 500* stuff NOT the VHT header paint. I pay close attention to the directions in regard to recoating within 10 minutes, apply 3-4 thin coats, and allow the parts to "cure" thoroughly before handling (usually about a week.)

Tip: Stick your nose right against the part and sniff. If it still smells like paint it's not fully cured.

The valve cover bolts use a 5mm allen, same as the sidecovers, etc. You'll need a LONG "key" (the traditional "L" shaped allen wrench) too for the two you can't get to with a socket. Remember, 7.2 ft/lb is just a good stiff snug and the bolts have stop collars so not being able to get a torque wrench on those two is not critical.

 

Got it! Thanks again.

 

I found a can of that CRC engine cleaner that is pictured in your cleaning/painting tutorial. I noticed that it says at the end of the instructions, "Start engine immediately and let idle for 10-15 minutes to dry." I'm wondering if that might be out of concern that water and engine cleaner could have leaked in around the gaskets and might cause rust to form. My engine will probably not be running for weeks yet, so I want to make sure I'm not causing a bigger problem.

Thanks again!

 

Simple green-full strength on a warm motor.
Made mine look like new.

 

Thanks, parts, but I've already got the other stuff and, like I said, my bike's not running so the warm engine part is out.

 

Thats ok, stuff works great either way-be careful if you
use a bug & tar remover. some are not for use on bare
metal and will state it on the bottle. I asked at the local auto
zone and the clerk said it would be fine. The manager recognized
my concern and called the company and the rep said definetly not recomened for metal. pays to be extra careful lol.

 

Good tip. Thanks.

 

I use steam. I fabricated a wand out of an old torch head and adapted it to attach to my wallpaper steamer. It puts out a pretty forceful stream but concentrated to about the diameter of a pencil. So it is quite contollable and gets into the tightest spaces. Eliminates the problems associated with pressure washers.

 

That's a cool idea. Wish I had one of those.

 

Good idea usehername.

 

Years ago some carwash location had steam generators for engine cleaning. Nothing like steam for removing grease and grime. I used to load up my dirt bike on a pickup and steam it right on the bed. I know there are inexpensive houshold steamers out there for sale that are used for cleaning showers and floors but I doubt they have the pressure to do much on an engine. Wagner makes a small wallpaper steamer with a cleaning wand included that might be worth looking into. It is less than a hundred bucks around here. Model number 905 power steamer. I have no experience with it but it looks like it might work well. Also most rental companys have steamers for a few bucks a day. As a matter of fact, the commercial grade unit I own was purchased from a rental company. I paid $150 for it back in 1996. They sell new for around a thousand now.

 

I thought I'd describe how things went and show my results, not because they're so great, but just for anyone who's interested.

The first thing I did was make myself a little tool so that I could pull out most of the greasy, sandy, mud that had collected down in around the wells in the very center of the engine, between the #2 & #3 plugs. Then I wrapped most of the bike in plastic. That was very worth doing, even though I had the hose set to a pretty low volume flow.

I started with the CRC Citrus engine cleaner. Sprayed it on and let it set for 20 minutes, then went to work with a stiff brush from the parts store and a toothbrush. Rinsed and repeated. Engine was still not very clean. Can was empty.

I then went to work with Simple Green in a spray bottle at 100% strength. Sprayed it on and scrubbed with the previously mentioned brushes plus a cheap little paintbrush like you would use to apply adhesive or gasket goop. Rinsed and repeated this a couple of times. Getting better.

Then I went with the bug and tar remover which seemed to do almost nothing. I used the stuff I had on hand was made by Turtle Wax. Maybe there's something better out there.

Switched back to Simple Green and scrubbing for a couple more rounds. The pictures show the end result after several hours of work. MUCH better...but still not great. I'm afraid it might have to do for now, though. I think I'll be able to get the rest of the stuff off of the valve cover when I take that off.

Thanks to everyone for their help. I'm afraid I'm not ambitious enough to find a steamer and fabricate a special tool for it. Maybe on the next bike. For now, I just need to get this thing running. There may be other much bigger problems of which I'm not even aware yet. So on that happy note, back to work!

 

Not bad.
It will improve at every wash with time.
I get the "it looks brand new" almost every day, and all
from simple green.
I use the stuff everytime I washed her (no less then every 7-10 days) untill 99% of the road crap was gone.
Now I can "green it" every other wash to maintain that "new look"
Road tar sucks-I'm still looking for something to remove it that
wont cause unwanted damage to surrounding areas.
Lets us know if you come across something good.

 

I like "Tarminator" Bug & Tar remover; it's a solvent-based type and works great for more than just bugs and tar. I apply it, let it soak, work with a brush if necessary; before the soap and water. Great for chain lube "dots."

I'll bet if you soak those still grubby spots on the head with it, it will break loose what's left. It WILL NOT damage paint.

WD40 DOES have one good use: what it was designed for. WD=Water Displacement. GREAT for driving moisture out of nooks and crannies; BAD for lubricating cables (unless a stuck throttle is your idea of excitement.)

LAST-Ditch solution for those bad grubby spots: Lacquer thinner; but it WILL damage paint so use with caution.

If you scrub the valve cover bolt heads with WD40 they should return to a much nicer appearance; I use a q-tip to keep the hex holes clean and rust-free.

 

Thanks, guys. I really appreciate it.