Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean up.

Just bought this XJ550 a couple weeks ago. 4,756 miles and sounded good for $800. I will admit I am a first time rider and DO NOT know what to look for in a bike like this, but took a chance. Bought it from an old man that wanted it for his 12 year old grandchildren but his wife told him NO!. I am aware of the cost of starting with a bike this old but find it intriguing. I have riden a bicycle for the last 4 years and loved the maintenance that was involve in keeping a daily rider bicycle up to par. I moved a little farther away from work and the bus is making me get up WAYYYY to early. 1:20 for a 15 minute car ride. It's a 1982 XJ550 Maxim. Loving every bit of it since I bought it.

I have:
-got a new batter from batteries plus with good cold cranking amps.
-bought spark plugs but have not installed (NGK DR8EA)
-bought oil filter have not installed or changed oil, think I need couple of O-rings holding off till I can get them.
-need to pull off rear wheel and check the brake.
-want to check valve clearance but need to order gasket and buy feeler gauge and shims.
-sync carbs obviously next. (seems to take a while to warm up and still can't totally push choke to far right. (Do I just need to adjust the choke cable?)

It has been around 30 degrees with snow lately here so I haven't been able to really take her out. I don't have my license either as this is my first motorcycle but feel confident. I live in Boulder, CO and can't wait till take this beauty to the canyons and go flyfishing.

Any tips or criticism greatly appreciated! I am definitely new to the whole motorcycle thing and will be updating this thread.

 

can't says i blame the wife.

buying a vehicle for some grandkids that won't be able to use it for at least 5 years.

i bet his daughter didn't appreciate grandpa buying for the grandkid either.LOL

the ninja i had was for my son. but his mother wanted no part of it. and wouldn't allow the bike at there house.

 

So I thought I could post the pictures using the img link from my gallery. How do I post the pics from my gallery. I would like them on this post. Yeah can't blame the wife either. I'm, can't lie, slightly nervous riding this smaller bike myself. I've only really driven a dirt bike in my friends small back yard when I was in highschool. Maybe got into second gear. Although I do understand the idea behind it all.

 

It didn't work because you used the url for the html page (see how your addresses end in .html) instead of the url for the picture that is displayed on it. If you right click the picture you can copy the picture link, then paste that into the box that pops up to add an image.

If it won't run without some choke you're almost certainly going to have to clean the carburetors.

In the future buy the Fram or Wix filter. They come with the o-rings you need.

Nice looking bike. Your pictures:

 

Nice bike. Hopefully you bought the correct battery, so it will fit without issues.

D8EA not "DR" the bike has resistor caps, you don't use resistor plugs too. Good thing you didn't install them yet.

You need a manual, right away.

The very first thing you need to do is check the rear brake for delamination; you'll need to pull the rear wheel and look, you can't go by feel or low mileage: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html Don't do a lot of riding until you do, it can get dangerous.

And then read everything in here under "Cool Hand Luke:" http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=27544.html

With 4756 miles, judging by wear, those are the original tires. DO NOT ride on them; they're tubeless tires and a blowout is not a good thing.

You're also going to keep a close eye on the chain; if it won't hold adjustment and/or "bleeds red" when lubed it's rusted internally and should be replaced. This and the rear brake issue are very common, you need to be careful.

I'm not trying to frighten you here, I just want you to understand that buying an old bike is not like buying an old car, even one that appears to be in good shape. You can't just start riding it and wait for stuff to fail, it can bite you big time.

Nice find, by the way, I paid $800 for my '81 and it was in nowhere near that nice of a condition. You've got a real nice starting point there, and the 550s are sweet-riding bikes.

 

Thanks MiCarl for the photo uploads! I'll try and figure it out for my next few posts.

bigfitz- I've chosen you as my guru at the moment. Much appreciated knowledge. They let me take the battery home dry to try and fit it. Worked fine. The bike starts up TEN times better now. Amazing how much a fresh battery helped.

Thanks for the heads up on the plugs. I called down there with the D8EA number and the guy said yeah we got em. When I arrived those are what they gave me. I didn't notice until I got home that the model was different. I did do a small amount of research on the internet and it seemed I could still use them. I will most definitely take YOUR word for it though. I will return them and get the correct plugs.

I have a downloaded pdf of a XJ550 manual. Not sure of the year but I will check when I get home. I have a owners as well as a service manual. I would like to buy the CD that I have been reading about in other posts. Haven't looked into it yet though. I have been reading the pdf's religiously though.

I will check the rear brake ASAP! I'll have to do some research on it since I've been focusing a lot on the Valve Adjustment and Carb Cleanup lately. After reading your posts I will probably push the brake and tires to priority one.

I do believe these are the original tires. There is small cracking on the edges. I will try to address these ASAP. Luckily I have some time before its nice enough for me to ride so that I can save some money to buy new ones. Any suggestions on a cheap, good tire?

I bought some Triflow PTFE spray to lube my chain. Is this a good option? I use it on my bicycles all the time and seems to work well. I will definitely check for bleeding.

Thanks for the info and I will try to update this post often. This forum and the new XJ has me obsessed! I'm really loving the fact that I can do all or most of the work on it MYSELF.

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

The chain is probably original too. The pins on it are probably full of rust and it'll wear quickly when you ride it. A new one would be cheap insurance to make sure you don't need a chain AND sprockets in a few miles.

 

Welcome to the forum and nice bike.
Lots of good advice to be found here as well as links and pictures.
A couple of things I'd suggest are, make sure you have a clear title to the bike before investing a bunch of time and money. Next, seeing as your riding experience is limited, look into training schools, knowledge and training are invaluable to a first time rider, you also may get a discount on insurance with a course certificate (you do here in Canada) plus you may get to use your course bike for you test (maybe).
When it comes to doing the actual work on the bike, read, read, read and then tackle small jobs first, it'll build up your confidence and give you a feeling of accomplishment.
I don't know what your tool box is like, but use the right tool for the job, don't try and make do with something you think might work.
From the pictures, that is a nice, clean, unmolested bike and with due dilligence and carefully planned repairs will give you a good return on your investments (money and labour)
Keep us informed and include lots of pictures, everyone likes pictures.


Cheers, Graham

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

Congrats on the bike and welcome.

I'm not too worrried about the bike. A few dollars and a few hours will get that sorted out but what I am worried about is you! You are new to riding, please, for your own sake and that of those that love you, enroll in a proper course. When you complete the course go practice, then practise some more. I used to spend a month or so in Boulder every year a while back and learned ow to ride going back and forth to Broomfield, then my older sis taught me to ride in the mountians. I know that it's not quite "riding weather" there yeat since lots of snow is still falling but you can still practice the basics, ESPECIALLY BRAKING!! Remember that braking is the one riding skill that will save your life on a daily basis. Learn how and when to use the front brake, practice panic stops once you are ready till the cows come home. Like a lot of guys here I've been riding many, many years and I am not ashamed to admit that I constantly practice. When you get to the point where doing a "panic stop" from 90mph, in the rain doesn't rattle you, then you are beginning to get it.

Learn to ride with your head on a swivel, paying attention to everything around you, and learn to stop your bike better and faster then anything in the manual.....that last 4 feet will be TRUCK!

It honestly sickens me when I'm out and I see a rider, head welded on straight, never looking to either side....he'll never see it coming. Stay aware and learn to stop and the rest will take care of itself.....

jeff

 

I LOVE TriFlow PTFE as a cable lube, etc. Use it all the time.

IT IS NOT a motorcycle chain lube. You need motorcycle chain lube.

My personal favorite is PJ1 Blue Label, but there are many good brands out there.

 

Well said JeffK and jazzaero that looks like a good buy to me, follow th procedures and you will both be happy, ride safe.

 

Battery works GREAT!!! Seems like it starts before I even finish pushing the button! lol I did get a small shock from the spark plug wire while I was feeling the side of the engine this morning. They look perfectly fine and covered with rubber. No exposed wires that I can see. Is this normal? Not a very big shock. Just felt like a small 24V shock or something. Still running on the old spark plugs. I touched it again just to double check. The second time I touched it right on the top of the 90 degree bend of the wire. Didn't seem like a big deal but I thought I'd ask.

Looking into some riding classes out here in Colorado. Not cheap but I feel like it will help me a million times over.

Also, suggestions on the sequence of the valve adjustment. Such as, should I order the gasket and take the measurement. Then replace the cover, order shims, install when they arrive and then use the same gasket. Or will I not be able to use that gasket again if I open it up the second time and need to get another. I'm assuming I can reuse it.

Bike seems to be running great! I've taken it for a spin around the block a couple times to get the feel and see how it acts out of neutral. No issues that I can tell. Carbs seem to need cleaned though. The bike won't idle under 1500rpms. Maybe that is fine but I feel that I read in the manual around 1000-1200 is good.

 

A fast idle could mean a possible air leak, it could also be as simple as a cable adjustment or turning the idle screw on the side of the carbs.
The minor shock could be a small crack in the insulation that is not visible to the eye, but enough for the spark to find the shortest distance to ground, IE: your fingers. LOL!!
As far as courses not being cheap, consider the alternative costs of not being able to react to circumstances that may end up with you in the hospital and a wrecked bike.
That being said, a course will not make you indestructable, but may give you the edge when it comes to making a split second descision.
Then if you can afford it, get the best damned riding gear you can, starting with a good quality helmet at least. Skin grows back, bones usually heal, but if you split your head open and suffer a serious head trauma, chances are you will take a long, long time to come back, if you come back at all.
Sorry if I'm sounding all doom and gloom on the last bit, but the realities are that eventually you will come off the bike. I don't know stats but if anyone on the forum can say they never had a get off at least once, speak up, then we can all come over and rub your head for good luck.
Even a tip over in your garage or parking lot can mean serious pain, think of where your bike is parked, then look around it and see what your head or other body parts may come in contact with on the way down, really take a look around, you may want to rethink how things a placed around your bike.
From personal experience:
I had just finished washing my 04 Bandit, dried it off and was moving it into the garage to polish it up out of the sun. Got it inside, stepped off the bike to put it on the centre stand and dropped it on it's side. It never occured to me the the bracket on the centre stand was still wet and so were my sneakers. My foot slipped off just before I had it all the way up and the bike started to tip away from me. I struggled like a F'ing mad man to keep that sucker up, but it's a 1200 and weight and gravity won out and down it went.
Bent the bar end weight, scuffed the mirror and ball on the brake lever, but worst of all, the right front signal disintegrated. ($70.00)
Now the thing is, I had just cleared the area up where I was going to park the bike. I had two auto axle stands, an axle lift and assorted other tools laying around on the ground. I know for a fact that the axle stands would have seriously damaged, if not punctured the tank, and the other stuff would have probably caused some serious plastic damage.
I know I'm rambling on a bit but it's difficult to pass on some experience in just a few words, well, at least as far as I'm concerned..

 

First thing: NO MORE "riding around a bit" until you get the rear brake apart and check it for delamination! Serious biz!!!

Re: Motorcycle safety courses: Check with your local Community College. They're offered in our area for like $25-$35 thru the CC.

 

Ok. Will do. I'll pull the wheel off tonight and check the rear brake. I'll take plenty of pictures and update as soon as I can. It's so tempting to ride lol.

Thanks everyone for the help.
This forum is GREAT!

 

There're a lot of things you're going to want to do before any serious riding as well.

The bike has 4K miles. Initial valve adjustment was to have been done at 3K and chances are it wasn't so you're 1K overdue. You've already mentioned it so I assume this one's on your radar.

You need to at the very least bleed the front brake and refill with new fluid; the lines should be replaced SOON as well. Plan on a master cylinder and caliper rebuild in the near future.

And, if it were me, I'd just replace the chain now before it starts to chew up the sprockets (which should still be good.) Chances are it's rusted internally, which you may soon discover. Personally I wouldn't wait because they're so cheap.

Now get after that tire shopping...

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

So is unprotected sex in the heat of the moment, that's why good rubber and being able to slam on the brakes is so important. 8O
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

So I started to take off my rear wheel tonight to check the rear brake. I removed the tension bar and the brake rod. Seemed simple enough. Went to the other side to loosen the axle nut. Then found out I don't have the proper size wrench or socket to loosen it. What size is this nut? I'm thinking 20mm since the 19mm seemed just a hair smaller. I need some half inch drive sockets for my ft/lb torque wrench anyway so I'll try to get some tomorrow.

 

Removing the cotter pin on the tension bar.





Removing the tension bar nut.





Removing the brake rod adjuster.





Removing the cotter pin on the axle nut.

 

Axle nut is 22mm; invest in a good 6-point socket.

Rear wheel removal made easy (chain drive bikes only) and this is why you need a factory book:

DON'T PULL OUT THE AXLE. Makes it a lot more difficult.

-Loosen axle nut.

-Loosen chain adjusters, and flop them down, out of the way.

-Remove the small vertical bolts that hold the adjuster blocks into the ends of the swingarm, and remove the blocks.

-Slide the whole assembly forward enough to disengage the chain from the sprocket.

-With the stop blocks out of the way, the entire wheel/brake/axle assembly can now be slid straight back and right out the ends of the swingarm.

-You will need to jockey it past the fender and get it unsnagged from the chain, but it's still easier than pulling out the axle and having it all fall apart.

-You NEED a service manual. The Clymer will do, the factory book is better. If you get a factory book off eBay, be sure it includes the "Maxim Supplement" with the stuff that's model-specific to your bike (and different from the Seca, which was the "standard" XJ550 to the rest of the world.)

Reassembly is equally easy if you put it all together first then slide it in, much easier than trying to finagle the axle through all the bits and spacers, etc.

Use the little marks on the swingarm and the "pips" on the adjusters to ensure the rear wheel is aligned; adjust chain to about 40mm free-play. The book says 35mm, but it's too tight; I run mine at 40mm-45mm and they hold adjustment for literally thousands of miles.

Your axle nut gets torqued to 76 ft/lb; your torsion bar nut to 14.5 ft/lb. Be sure to use new cotter pins.

Get a book.

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

First off... Nice bike. I am new to this forum but have had an xj bike since I started riding. It has always been my true first love of bikes. These guys here on this forum are very helpful and knowledgable and have helped me alot. I would also check J.C. Whitney for cheaper tires. They are Barracuda tires and have served me well in the past.

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

Bought my 22mm socket today and pulled off the wheel.



Loosened and dropped the chain pullers.



Removed the pinch bolt.



Pushed the wheel forward and removed the chain from the cog. Then pulled the wheel back and out from the rear dropouts.



Here is the (?)drum(?) part of the rear brake.



And then we have the pads.



Looking like about an eigth of an inch on the pads. I pulled and tugged around on them and they seemed to be on there good. Is there anything I need to do while I'm in here? I held off on putting the tire back on until I get some feedback.



I also found some corrosion when I took the wheel off. Any ideas where this might be coming from? Whats the best way to clean this up?




Felt good to get down and dirty with the new bike.

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

In this picture it looks like you are loosening the nut with a torque wrench, that is not a good thing to do. Torque wrenches are only supposed to be used to get the correct torque when tightening.
If you need more oompfh to loosen the nut you need either a breaker bar or double wrench it.

Double wrench method: *use the box end on the nut*

...or breaker bar:

 

Thanks Maxim-X! I did not know that. I will use my other ratchets or an open ended wrench next time.

 

OK.

First off, the shoes. In the pic of the brake shoes, the lower end of the one on the left and the upper end of the one on the right look like they might be starting to peel. Dig at them where the shoe meets the backing plate with the tip of a dull boxknife blade. If you can get the lining to start to peel away from the metal shoe, they need to be replaced. The knife should just scratch the lining material a bit if they're firmly glued.

Get a couple of cans of "Brake Cleaner" from the auto parts store, and a roll of paper shop towels. Use it to clean out the brake drum (DO NOT BLOW THE DUST OUT, it's toxic.) Use a wad of Scotchbrite (never use steel wool) to break the "glaze" on the inside of the brake drum, and give it a nice "non-directional" finish (scuff it up.) If you have a Dremel, the little Scotchbrite buffs are perfect for this.

Remove the shoes from the backing plate by "standing them up" and clean everything. Remove the actuating lever pin, clean it and the hole.

Use a high temp brake lube to grease the lever pin, the ends of the shoes where they contact the cam and pivot pin.



If you look closely, the black gooey stuff you can see smeared around the actuating cam at the top is grease, the shoes are also greased where they sit on the pin. SPARINGLY.

The corrosion on top of the swingarm is from road spray and/or a misrouted battery vent drain hose. Use your new best friend, the Brake Cleaner, and clean it all up; if it's through to rusty bare metal, clean it up with Scotchbrite. Then shroud the whole area with newspaper and masking tape and give it a quick shot of Automotive Rust-Oleum and be done with it. The top of the swingarm takes a beating there anyway, it's just gonna get all dirty and yukky with chain lube fling again.

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

I've got white lithium grease. The temp rating, if I understand the container correctly, says 392 degrees. Would this work for the brakes? What temperature should my brake grease be rated at?

 

Most automotive apps recommend white lithium grease, just make sure you use it sparingly (little bit) and make sure it does not contaminate the linings and you should be good to go.
When doing this kind of work, latex gloves are your friend.
Note to Fitz, nice looking finish on the brakes!

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

Rear brake checked and cleaned. I attempted to separate the pad and it was on pretty good. I couldn't pry it or get under it with a box knife. I will probably buy new pads after I buy the tires. If these ones are still good then I think I should probably put my money into new rubber. These tires look cracked.

I am in between coats after cleaning away the corrosion on the swing arm and blasting it with a coat of automotive black paint.

 

Looking good. As long as the linings were't starting to peel away from the metal shoe ("delamination") then you're fine.

I prefer an actual "brake lube" but the white grease is OK, just be sure it's used sparingly anywhere near the shoes themselves and you're fine. Make sure the actuating cam pin is well lubed where it goes thru the backing plate (be careful with the wear indicator pointer) and wipe away any excess inside the brake. Then lightly smear the cam faces and pivot pin.

 

the rear brake thing is true...i pulled mine off of my xj650 to get a new tire put on and the brake shoes came apart when i pulled them out...i was just glad i hadnt ridden the bike since i bought it...

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

Ok. So I put the rear wheel back on. Adjusted the chain to what I believe should be correct. I have about 1 3/4" travel on the chain. I still need to connect the rear brake back up.

BUT! While I had the bike on the center stand I decided to start it up for a little while since its been a few days since the last time I had started it. I let it warm up and then right when I shut it down I noticed some puddles under the bike. Seemed to be water after smelling it and feeling it. Upon further inspection it looked as if it was coming from the exhaust. Right before the exhaust flares out. Is this normal? I noticed it on both sides. Right side had a significantly larger puddle.

I will connect the rear brake back up and start it up again later to ride around the block.

 

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but chemically speaking water vapour is a by-product of combustion, and with winter temperatures it would be condensing more than in the summer. On my old Suzuki it has a drain screw in the bottom of the exhaust and water would pool in there every so often as well. As long as it's not huge puddles I think you're ok but somebody feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Yeah I agree. After some research I think it's water from just letting it warm up a short time in the garage and not riding. It didn't warm up enough to vaporize the water. My guess.

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

RE: one of your earlier questions about chain lube - I know that BigFitz52 likes the standard stuff, but MANY others switched over to the DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant spray years ago with very good results (no fling; lots more miles between coatings, much less expensive, etc.). Check out WebBikeWorld's review of chain lubes from 2010 - http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcyc ... s-2010.htm

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

Maxim-X, I do have to wonder why my torque wrench has a two way ratchet on it. Unless I was tightening a left handed thread (maybe so) it would be for loosening a nut. Just wondering. I'm new to this whole thing.

Thanks for the knowledge so far!

I would have never thought to have checked that rear brake. Very happy that I'm sure the rear wheel won't lock up on me on the way to work one morning. Now I can remove and replace the rear wheel as well.

Just bought insurance, a full face helmet, and armored jacket tonight. Hopefully here by next week.

 

Max-X is right, torque wrenches are for tightening only. It has a reversible ratchet because there are plenty of left-hand thread applications in the world.

Speaking of which: Your right-hand mirror is reverse-threaded (knowing this might save you from breaking something if you try to remove it.)

And that very water is why it's not a good idea to periodically start a bike and "warm it up" in the garage during layover. Similar moisture forms in the crankcase as well, and doesn't get burned off either.

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean

Apples and oranges. Those guys are all about o-ring and/or x-ring chains. I run standard (nekkid) chains and always have. My preference is based on 40+ years of personal experience, including some experimentation, and then sticking to what I know works and works well.

 

OK. So I received a helmet and jacket in the mail, as well as registered the bike. Decided to to take it for a ride for about 25 miles or so. On the last leg back the tach stops working. Right as I look down at it the needle takes a dive. Now, I am able to drive the bike by sound but would like to get it working again.

Anyone have an idea? I haven't checked it yet as I came home and got busy with other things. I have not started the bike again since I put it away. I will try to start it in the morning as its getting late.

 

You really need to learn to use "forum search." Or just look in "FAQ Suggections."

Your tachometer is cable-driven from the front of the cylinder head.

The instrument itself is magnetic-mechanical. Exactly how it (and the speedo) works is covered here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15303.html

Your instruments are in a "cluster" that comes apart so the instruments are easily accessible for servicing. Here's the cluster removal and disassembly procedure from a 550 Seca; yours will be slightly different in that you will have a couple fewer plugs to deal with (you don't have a fuel gauge or voltmeter.) http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14948.html

While I doubt you've suffered a failure here, the tach drive at the head does have a tendency to start leaking oil after a bike that's been sitting goes back in service. WHEN (not if, when) it happens to you, here's the fix: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=19538.html

All that being said, start with the cable. Make sure it hasn't simply come loose at the top where it screws into the tach.

If that's not the case, remove it from the instrument and start the engine, see if the inner cable spins. If it does, your problem's in the tach itself; if not, pull the cable and slide the inner out and have a look.

 

Ok I pulled the fitting apart on the motor for the tach. The cable has broke as I see a small nub of cable spinning when I pull the fitting apart.

Sorry Fitz. I did a little searching but didn't find what I was looking for. I should have looked harder I guess.

 

So when you disconnected it at the motor there was a small bit of cable sticking out, spinning?

New cable time.

Be sure to lube the new cable. For this cable, because it gets quite hot, I use motor oil.

And you don't need to search all that hard. A lot of this stuff (most of it actually) is in "FAQ Suggestions."

 

Re: Just bought a low mile XJ550 first time tinker and clean



Here is the broken cable. Should I leave the cable on the bike while I drive it for the next week or so?

 

I would, so oil doesn't go all over.

However, it came apart wrong. There is a threaded sleeve that should be sticking out of the housing there, the cable ferrule collar screws onto it. I'll bet it's still in the end of the cable. Look in my tach drive oil seal article: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=19538.html it's part #5 in the diagram, and it's supposed to stay behind when you unscrew the cable.

Remove it from the cable, and screw it firmly into the housing (not too firmly, you don't want to crack the housing.) Then reattach the cable to the stub.

 

Holy crap your tires looooooook terrible! If you haven't been searching yet I would recommend the Bridgestone BT-45 Battleaxes

 

He's tire shopping, or he'd better be. Pretty sure I tore him up about the tires already, if not I'm slipping.

Bridgestone BT45 Battlax, Avon AM26 RoadRiders and Dunlop D404s are/were my recommendations, because they don't have a continuous center groove to grab at rain grooves.

 

Thanks for the info!

(I had a follow up question but found the answer so I'm editing this.)