Metal Flakes on Oil Drain plug

Alright, so I finally got the idle working on my recently aquired bike. So I figured I'd do an oil change since god only knows if/when the PO did. Simple enough right? Well my bike is currently sitting with no oil in it because the bolt on the filter bowl is seized/stripped.

Unfortunately that's not the worst part. The oil was very very dark, and I found metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. So.... What are the chances I'm not completely screwed? What all should I be concerned about from this and where should I start?

Thanks

 

That all depends on the size and quantity of the metal. If the oil has been in there too long it is normal to see some black sludge stuck on the magnet. It is usually particles from the clutch plates If that was all you have and the engine does not make any unusall noises then change the oil and run it. If the metal in there is large and gritty then you may have problems.

Show us a pic if you can.

 

You could give up all hope . . .
or
you could leave your filter alone for now - and just change the 2,800CC's that's easy to change.
Meanwhile,
There are many threads dealing with "impossible" filter housing bolts that basically tell you how to apply increasingly larger amounts of force and persuasion to eventually "win" at removing the filter housing.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=30465.html

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... stuck.html

Lots of threads pop up

 

Timetoride

Although I certainly appreciate sarcasm with the best of them, I think you missed the point. I wasn't concerned about the oil filter change, although I was venting about it.

My concern was about the metal shavings I found on the oil drain plug. Something that's usually not seen as a good sign of the engine's condition.




MLEW

mlew, I unfortuneately didn't snap a pic of the shavings. I have a feeling the oil was pretty old from as dark as it was an the poor condition of other basic maintenance things on the bike. So hopefully I'll luck out with it just being clutch plate particles.

 

Does it look like black sludge and metal flakes, or the shavings from a metal lathe ??
Pics would be nice

 

It looked closer to black sludge. Unfortunately I didn't have the camera with me at the time.

 

Don't sweat it. Change the oil (fix your filter situation) put a couple hundred miles on the bike, then change the oil again. Change it again after about 500-800 miles. Keep an eye on the drain plug magnet.

Be sure you're using motorcycle oil; 20W50 is fine; Castrol 4T is widely available.

Based on the condition you described, what you found is likely normal.

 

as long as you cant read part numbers on the shavings you're fine

 

I have the same problem with my filter housing on two of my XJ’s, I am going to try tack welding a nut on to the old head. I’m hoping this will work and you can buy bigger oil filter bolts for cheap.
Al

 

I purchased the oil filter bolt this morning. I'm going to try an east out tonight. If that doesn't work.... I'll get more creative.

 

An easy-out will only break off on you.

Look at the replacement bolt. It's not a bolt; it's a PART with a bolt head on it. The problem with the original is that the 12MM head doesn't provide enough leverage to break loose the much larger diameter body of the thing once good and stuck. (This is why the easy-out will break; lack of leverage in comparison to what it is you're trying to turn.)

If you can't get enough of a good grip on the original to turn it via the head, the only real way to get it off is to grind or cut the head of the bolt off and then pop the cover; or have something welded to it that you can turn. Either of these options will be a lot more difficult with the easy-out broken off in there.

 

Lister to Fitz...NO easy-out on that bolt. Pipe wrench, vice grips or whatever to start. If that does not work then try grinding the flats smooth to accept a smaller 6 point socket, don't use a 12 point you'll end up with the same situation--another rounded bolt head.
Welding on another nut works if you have a welder .Thats my choice for sutbborn bolts.
Anther option is to grind the head off, be carefull not to cut into the filter housing.

 

Well we took another shot at it tonight. Day two of my longest oil change ever was a failure. We got up to the point of getting an 11mm socket to seat pretty well on it and re-stripped it. I don't have any way to weld it, so it looks like tomorrow we try to cut it off. Here's to hoping we can keep the filter bowl safe. Really didn't think this would be such a project.

On a side note. I suppose I'll need a new filter bowl o-ring when this is said and done. Short of having it shipped I don't suppose there's a brick and mortar store that have them?

 

Save the Dome!

Remove the two inside Header Pipes and apply a PIPE Wrench to the Shouldered Area of the Oil Filter Bolt.

(( A "Small" Pipe Wrench will do the trick IF you also employ a short length of Pipe to Wrench Handle as a "Persuader" for extra leverage. ))


Purchase a FRAM PH6003 Oil Filter from Advance or AutoZone.
Included with the Filter is a pair of New O-Ring Seals.

 

That's a CH6003 ("C" for Cartridge; you've been working on too many cars. "PH" are spin-ons.)

AutoZone is usually a 50-50 chance as to whether they carry them; Advance always seems to have one on the shelf.

 

Thanks again fitz and Rick. I'll go and grab a filter tomorrow. As for the latest on the filter bolt, apparently my bike is so evil that it actually scared my friend's dremel into breaking about 2 seconds into the bolt. I swear this bike doesn't want to give up the filter.

Since my where can I find a filter locally question wasn't much of a challenge, how bout rear brake shoes? Is there a brick and mortar you can get them from? Thanks again

 

You might find rear brake shoes at your local Yammery, but they'll soak you an arm and a leg.

Order up a set from chacal, you'll have 'em in 3 days.