1985 Clutch cover removal

I had posted in my other thread and wasn't getting any responses to my new question, so here it goes. I can't seem to be able to get the clutch cover off. I removed one of the hard metal coolant lines, as it used one of the same bolts as the cover for security. The cover is loose as I can wiggle it but it seems like it is still attached near the top right corner where there are a couple gears. I read something about the water pump but don't know more then that. Help please.

 

I figured it out! There is a bolt behind the gear which has its own access cover.

 

This is what it looked like the first time I removed the clutch cover.

 

Another angle.

 

All the friction and metal plates are in the same condition.

 

What's the rod in the middle of the picture for? It is geared from the starter by the looks of it.

 

Re: 1985 Maxim X 750 Clutch cover removal

Here is some info on my problem from another thread. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=35930.html

From what you can see do you think new friction plates and springs will honestly solve my problem?

 

According to my service manual that is the water pump drive shaft.

 

Re: 1985 Maxim X 750 Clutch cover removal

It sure looks like it. Everything looks pretty pristine in there; just clean up all the deposits on the plain plates with Scotchbrite NOT steel wool. Give 'em a nice "non-directional" finish.

What sort of shape is the wafer bearing in? (That was the pic I posted in my answer to your original "problem" post.)

Be sure you soak the new stuff in oil for an hour or so beforehand; and be sure to align the dots on the pressure plate and hub when reassembling.

Most OE Yamaha clutch screws I've seen have "flared" heads; it's hard to tell from the pics but if you're the least bit suspicious of the screws, just replace them with the proper parts. In the "how-to" I discovered improper fastener substitution myself.

I tend to lean toward doing it right the first time vs. having to continually revisit.

**oh, and the water pump drive shaft runs off the jackshaft. The starter is geared to it, (and the alternator is on the other end.)

 

Thanks a lot bigfitz52. These have no flared head. It's a bolt with a washer. I will get replacements.

The wafer bearing looks in great shape but I'm going to replace it anyway. Like you said do it right the first time.

I love learning about my bike!

 

You are more than welcome.

I'm genuinely glad I can be of assistance; and even happier that you are actually absorbing some of what I'm trying to pass along. (Apparently I'm a "quality snob." Sorry but my life depends on it.)

I think I can speak for Dave, Wiz, Rick and the other "old schoolers" here when I say we really appreciate the folks that truly learn from our advice. It almost makes it worth all the twits that want to argue for a quick fix rather than actually get serious and work on their bikes.

WE appreciate YOU more than you realize. Ask away.

 

Wouldn't it be sweet if we organized a meet one summer and we could put a face to all these aviators!

 

Hey 550, I just went out to the shed and took a picture of this, it's a factory original clutch assy out of an 85 Maxim X, hope it helps clarify the bolt issue.




Also the plates go in a certain way when you put them on, one notch is a different size than the others:
From the manual,
NOTE:
Install the friction plate so that the V-cut tab is in the identified dog.
If you forget to identify the position with a mark, measure the width of each dog.
13.8 mm (0.543 in) width is for that position.
The other widths are 14 mm (0.551 in)

Cheers from London ON.

Graham

 

Yup same bolts. I thought it was odd that the bike had a newer clutch when everything else was original, right down the the tires. Thanks.