BOGS/RUNS BAD/DIES help?

Also, a bench sync is just to get the bike running so you can do a vacuum sync. Be sure the float levels are accurately wet-set as well.

 

10-4 thanks fitz
I wet set the floats the other day. so those should be good. moving on to bench syn then vac sync. obviously Im gonna use the search to try and tackle these tasks, but any helpful advice is appreciated.

 

Do some YICS Tuning.

Grab a pair of athletic socks.
2 Cans of Card Cleaner.
4-Feet of Winter Driveway marker.

Remove both YICS Gallery Plugs. ( L/R )
Soak 1" ~ 2" *Patches* of sock with Cleaner. Shove patch(s) through the YICS Passage.
Repeat until a fresh patch comes falling-out from the open-end as clean as the patch started-out when it was loaded.
You might have a One Sock job.
Quite often the Bore is wicked-bad as an overflowing Huggie with a 2/3rds to 3/4ths of whole North American White Striped Skunk.

(White Striped so as to positively identify what you ran-over as-if the stench didn't leave a doubt. Also to show the Mustang fly-boy's they were not Nazi's.)

There are deals for Complete Carb Assy Fasteners made of Stainless Steel Allen-type.
Lube and Exercise New Stainless Allen Sync-screws before Tuning commences.

Having an Extra-long Ball-headed Allen T-Handle speeds-up the show.

Remove Idle Adjustment Rod and Spring
Add-on a Stainless Flat, first.
Thinnest Nylon.

Lube the Idle Rod and those New Washers with 3 and 1 Oil using the Precision Applicator and Preset just-about touching the porch at the Linkage.

 

Rick, I think you meant the above response for this thread: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=3 ... tml#391583

 

Im confused lol

 

well ive checked two shims so far . and one was a 275 and another was half readable. I think it says 280A but i measure it and micrometer says 309. ... how much would you rely on the ink stamped number?

 

so my micrometer is not in calibration , but i figured it out. this is what i came up with

clearances:
Cyl 1- I .06mm, E .10mm
Cyl 2- I .10mm, E .20mm
Cyl 3- I .08mm, E .15mm
Cyl 4- I .08mm, E .14mm

Current shims:
Cyl1- I 2.95, E 2.75
Cyl2- I 2.95, E 2.80
Cyl3- I 2.95, E 2.75
Cyl4- I 2.95, E 2.85



these are the shims i need to get according to the chart on fitz's walkthrough.(I think)

Cyl1- I 290, E 265
Cyl2- I 290, E in spec
Cyl3- I 290, E 270
Cyl4- I 290, E 285

Please correct me if i'm wrong. today i will be trying to find somewhere local with them or will probably have to order them.

 

OK, you missed one. Exhaust 4 needs a 280...

I already did your calculations for you...

Leave exhaust #2 alone;

Exhaust #1 will need to come down two sizes, from a 275 to a 265;

and the rest all get one-size smaller shim than what's in there now.

Once you're done, turn the motor over by hand a few revolutions and re-check.

Then I'd recommend you do a compression test.

A good Yamaha shop should have the shims but they may be expensive. Member HogFiddles runs a shim pool, or you can get them from XJ4Ever for about half of what Yamaha gets for them.

 

Yes sir you did. I just wanted to check and make sure I understood correctly. thank you fitz. I was hoping to buy locally , but if yamaha doesnt have what i need i will check out xj4ever. Nothing against shim pools, I would just rather buy new ones and have these old ones as testers and such.. Compression check. will do sir. Thank you

 

E4 should be a 280, you already have a 285 in there.

 

got the valve shims done and checked and rechecked. runs like crap if it even starts.frustrated

 

Good start. That wasn't "the fix" it's a PRE-REQUISITE to being able to properly adjust your freshly serviced carburetors.

Where are you with those?

 

okay i hope so. Carbs are not synced or anything with new valve shims. Im worried i screwed up some wiring or something. It used to start and idle great. but when on the throttle bog down close to dying. now wont even start 95 percent of the time even with starter fluid. I just wanted to hear it sing one time before a carb sync. I feel like something is wrong with the coils sor something IDK. They are aftermarket coils and the wiring under the tank is a mess.

 

Charged battery. Runs great from until warm. Man when it runs its running good! awesome throttle response feels great but when it got warm it jsut bogged with idle and died

 

Maybe the battery ran flat.

Below 2500 rpm or so, the bike is running on ONLY the battery; that is normal. The charging system starts to "come online" about 2200 rpm and should be at full output by 2500.

If you're running it at idle, it can and will run a "marginal" battery stone dead.

Now back to the carbs. I wasn't talking about sync yet; have you thoroughly cleaned them, replaced pilot screw o-rings, accurately wet-set the float levels and bench sync'ed them? Where are your pilot screws set?

If not, the carbs need to be fully serviced; then they can be adjusted. Getting the valves in spec is a prerequisite for that.

This isn't a magical process whereby you touch one thing, and everything suddenly starts working. ALL OF THE ABOVE FACTORS are critical in getting the bike running properly. Any one of them can lead to a lack of success. It all has to be done, carefully and correctly, if you hope to succeed.

Until you have done ALL OF THE ABOVE don't expect it to run correctly. (It won't.)

It sounds to me like you have wonky float levels and one or more cylinders are running way rich as a result. Once it warms up, it's acting as though the choke is on when it's not. Float levels or an enrichment plunger/seal issue.

 

Ok Fitz ill go through the carbs again, i already wet set the floats a few days ago, but i will redo them just in case. this may take me a few days lol

I should mention that the choke cable has be removed becuase the cable cover was breaking. so I was planning just hitting the choke lever on the carbs. Is this a problem?

Thanks!

 

Ok Fitz ill go through the carbs again, i already wet set the floats a few days ago, but i will redo them just in case. this may take me a few days lol

I should mention that the choke cable has be removed becuase the cable cover was breaking. so I was planning just hitting the choke lever on the carbs. Is this a problem?

Thanks!

 

The choke lever at the carbs is "spring loaded" the cable lever is what holds the plungers open when you use the "choke." (Remember that it's not a real choke, it's an enrichening circuit but that won't fit on the label.)

By all means double-check the floats, wet. If they're fine and in spec, then all you need do is check; easy.

You didn't answer in regard to the pilot mixture screws and their tiny o-rings.

Reading back through the whole thread, you said the carbs are clean. How clean? Did you remove the emulsion tubes, and clean them both inside and out? All jets removed and their passages flushed? Float valve seat seals replaced?

And more importantly: Have you re-jetted at all to compensate for the intake and exhaust mods yet?

If you're going to tune for extreme intake and exhaust mods, everything else has to be 100%.

 

still havent went to sleep lol. I took the carbs apart. Cleaned the emulsion tubes some things( that aren't rubber) are soaking in carb cleaner. Ive cleaned the enrichment circuit. and everything else i can see find and read about. Please tell me where the pilot mixture screws are. are they the ones on the top of the carb body by the choke? . I obviously can search with the right words or something. Carbs were jetted when i bought the bike. I kind of know the guy. he is supposedly good with carbs. he said he jetted them for pods and stage 2 cam. But when i wet set the floats were upside down lol.

 

The pilot mixture screws are indeed the ones in the top of the carbs next to the choke plungers.

They need to come out, the passages flushed, and if their tiny o-rings are mashed flat and baked hard they will need to be replaced.