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'82 XJ750 Maxim Build Summary + Links to Tech threads

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by BrosefStalin, Aug 13, 2014.

  1. BrosefStalin

    BrosefStalin Member

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    Thanks k-moe. I'm new-ish to riding on the street so feeling heat off of the engine is new to me. That didn't happen in the woods so much.

    Full disclosure: Last winter, when I tore up the carbs and replaced everything/bench and vacuum synced them, I did not use the YICS tool. I know there's a bit of a debate about its effectiveness, but there's a few other things I didn't do in that big carb post I made, which I will remedy this winter: As stated, I did not use YICS block tool, ill pick one up or make one. I did not polish the slides and bores* and I did not carb/colortune. I wasn't as precise as I could have been with the air screws due to the heads being fairly stripped, so I'll replace them too.

    The exchange rate is good and now is time to buy a carb and colortune kit combo from europe so I'm excited to have these tools in the arsenal.

    My recent posts mentioned a bit of hanging idle. *I pulled the carbs tonight and one & four clunked perfectly, but two and three had a tiny bit of build up and didnlt clunk. I polished all four of the bores and slides for the first time in what I imagine is 30-ish years.*

    We'll see if that cures the hanging idle. The bike is so low mileage and the intake boots look/seem very sound so I'm hoping this was all caused by hanging slides. The perfectionist in me wants to pull the intake boots this winter and soak them in wintergreen oil anyway. I figure if I haven't stripped bolt or screw yet, I should be ok.

    I also know it's time to measure the valve clearances again.

    Will report back tomorrow after a ride.
     
  2. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    Because some people take hours to sync their carbs, they need a fan
     
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  3. BrosefStalin

    BrosefStalin Member

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    Back from the dead, spring has sprung!

    I ended up not doing much riding between my last post in october and just recently, so here's a little update.

    Between lubing the cables, putting on new vacuum port caps, and adding an exhaust, I have solved the hanging idle ordeal, as I came to find out when I started riding two weeks ago.

    The mufflers are your standard emgo shorty's coming off of a seca collector. They came with barely any packing in them when new, so I took the core out and stuffed it with as much stainless steel wool as possible. The bike is certainly not quiet but it's much better than having them open. It runs much better as well.

    Other than that, I haven't really touched the bike. I completely disassembled my CB750 for a complete repaint of the frame/motor, and also took the head off for inspection and new gaskets.

    Once the CB is back together in a month or so, I will be taking this one apart to have the frame/motor and tank painted. Haven't decided what kind of color for the tins. I'm leaning towards white, but I think that looks best with a black motor and I'm not sure I want it to be black, I'd rather keep it a stock-ish silver.

    I'm also strongly considering some sort of wheel conversion. I would love to have two of the same size wheels, so rear to front conversion would be nice, or possibly some sort of custom spoked hubs...We'll see. Anyway, here's a pic from last week with the mufflers on.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    that back brake rod looks wrong, somethings not right there. move the arm clockwise on the shaft and re-adjust. are the shoes any good?
     
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  5. BrosefStalin

    BrosefStalin Member

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    Interesting, that's how it's always been.

    The brakes were changed by the PO (a friend of mine) a bit before I bought it, but I'm changing them here in a week or so.

    Are you thinking the threaded rod looks weird? or the actual rod coming off of the hub?

    How much would you suggest I turn it?
     
  6. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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  7. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    you want to take the adjuster off the rod and set up the pedal first. i like it even with my foot or slightly below it when i'm on the bike, it's faster to get on the brake if you don't have to lift your foot.
    then set the lever so it just stops at or near vertical with finger pressure, now put the rod in and adjust the nut.
    your pulling on the splined shaft now, you want to twist it
     
  8. RumRunner

    RumRunner New Member

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    love it! almost what i see in my head for mine. just want to know about the bar and riser set up you used. im also from the burgh, would be great to see it
     

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