'82 XJ750 Maxim Build Summary + Links to Tech threads

Same! It's a 73 CB750, and the color is called Candy Buccus Olive. Though I will be powdering the frame and other various bits, I'm not touching the original paint. For being 42 years old it's in great shape despite it's "character" involving various scratches and whatnot, but I like the "patina." I have yet to clay, buff/wax which ill do this winter to make it pop a little more; It's fantastic in the sun, and since I wanted to do brown leather for the seats (and grips, they'll be wrapped in matching brooks) the color matches very well. The seat I have now was something I made/upholstered just in case I got to ride it before winter. I'll be having it done by the same guy who did my XJ seat.

Really can't speak for the performance/fun factor, however. I've only taken it around the block!

I digress from the point of this post, however. The seca exhaust collector came in and I threw it on a moment ago, then took it for a 5 minute ride.

HANDS. DOWN. The best thing I've done for the bike. It idles better, runs better, and it may have actually cured that hanging idle, but I won't really know until I ride it long enough to have it at normal operating temperature. I'm thinking that crosspipe is really the key, considering that Ted was able to have his old maxim run well with pods and shorty exhausts, but not with an aftermarket 4-2 that didn't have the crosspipe.

I used his suggested jetting setup by using two small washer shims on the needle, and bumping up to 124 mains.

I also think that meat under the frame makes the bike look way better than when the headers were open. Function AND Form!




I believe will be chopping it up a little to run two shorty cones directly under the frame as opposed to them jutting out the side, but that's a winter project. I guess I'm just highly advocating using the stock collector and running custom pipe behind it. Therefore, please excuse the sloppy wrap job on the pipes, no sense in fixing it now. Lastly, these side profile shots realllly make me want to do a wheel conversion this winter.

 

I don't know what "Candy Buccus Olive" means, but it sounds gross! If my kid got some for Halloween, he'd be pissed! Looks great though.

 

It's said that Candy Buccus Olive is what comes out of someone who eats too much Candy on Halloween.

I look forward to much more XJ fun this winter.

 

Does anyone here have any experience with these oil temperature gauges that replace your oil filler cap on the case? They look nice.

http://www.mandp.co.uk/index.php/de...ge-xjr1300-fz750-xj550-xj650-xj750-xj900.html

 

You're right but that's about it. What can you do about the oil temperature?

 

Look at it.

 

Eh, take a peek here and there; I'm curious to see the temp at which I'm running anyway. Wouldn't that help me determine the engine overheating if I'm sitting in traffic?

 

Your engine will not overheat while sitting in traffic. The finning is designed to allow the engine to idle at a standstill without overheating.

 

Then why am I instructed to place a large fast fan in front of the bike when syncing the carbs (since the bike is sitting dormant idling)? Not being condescending or anything, just curious to hear your thoughts.

 

The idea is that you will likely be working inside of a garage where there is no significant airflow. The other issue is that the YICS blocking tool can get stuck inside of the YICS passage once the engine gets hot enough to melt the rubber seals. The fan buys you working time (not using the tool buys you even more working time).

For some perspective: I did 30 minutes of freeway riding last summer in KC. 30 minutes at an average speed of 1.2 MPH (sitting for several minutes was welcome as working the clutch in that sort of traffic really sucks). I had not a single sign of overheating (typicaly resulting in sluggish throttle response as the pistons begin to soft-seize and the valves begin to burn, or pinging as the combustion chamber temperatures rise).

Now then, if you're waiting on the longest train ever....just shut the engine off and wait; it'll save gas.

 

Thanks k-moe. I'm new-ish to riding on the street so feeling heat off of the engine is new to me. That didn't happen in the woods so much.

Full disclosure: Last winter, when I tore up the carbs and replaced everything/bench and vacuum synced them, I did not use the YICS tool. I know there's a bit of a debate about its effectiveness, but there's a few other things I didn't do in that big carb post I made, which I will remedy this winter: As stated, I did not use YICS block tool, ill pick one up or make one. I did not polish the slides and bores* and I did not carb/colortune. I wasn't as precise as I could have been with the air screws due to the heads being fairly stripped, so I'll replace them too.

The exchange rate is good and now is time to buy a carb and colortune kit combo from europe so I'm excited to have these tools in the arsenal.

My recent posts mentioned a bit of hanging idle. *I pulled the carbs tonight and one & four clunked perfectly, but two and three had a tiny bit of build up and didnlt clunk. I polished all four of the bores and slides for the first time in what I imagine is 30-ish years.*

We'll see if that cures the hanging idle. The bike is so low mileage and the intake boots look/seem very sound so I'm hoping this was all caused by hanging slides. The perfectionist in me wants to pull the intake boots this winter and soak them in wintergreen oil anyway. I figure if I haven't stripped bolt or screw yet, I should be ok.

I also know it's time to measure the valve clearances again.

Will report back tomorrow after a ride.

 

Because some people take hours to sync their carbs, they need a fan

 

Back from the dead, spring has sprung!

I ended up not doing much riding between my last post in october and just recently, so here's a little update.

Between lubing the cables, putting on new vacuum port caps, and adding an exhaust, I have solved the hanging idle ordeal, as I came to find out when I started riding two weeks ago.

The mufflers are your standard emgo shorty's coming off of a seca collector. They came with barely any packing in them when new, so I took the core out and stuffed it with as much stainless steel wool as possible. The bike is certainly not quiet but it's much better than having them open. It runs much better as well.

Other than that, I haven't really touched the bike. I completely disassembled my CB750 for a complete repaint of the frame/motor, and also took the head off for inspection and new gaskets.

Once the CB is back together in a month or so, I will be taking this one apart to have the frame/motor and tank painted. Haven't decided what kind of color for the tins. I'm leaning towards white, but I think that looks best with a black motor and I'm not sure I want it to be black, I'd rather keep it a stock-ish silver.

I'm also strongly considering some sort of wheel conversion. I would love to have two of the same size wheels, so rear to front conversion would be nice, or possibly some sort of custom spoked hubs...We'll see. Anyway, here's a pic from last week with the mufflers on.

 

that back brake rod looks wrong, somethings not right there. move the arm clockwise on the shaft and re-adjust. are the shoes any good?

 

Interesting, that's how it's always been.

The brakes were changed by the PO (a friend of mine) a bit before I bought it, but I'm changing them here in a week or so.

Are you thinking the threaded rod looks weird? or the actual rod coming off of the hub?

How much would you suggest I turn it?

 

The adjustment nut is waaaaaay too far up the rod, and the cam arm is at the wrong angle.
Check FItz's pic in this thread.
http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/setting-rear-brakes-81-xj650.36166/

And check the brake shoes.

 

you want to take the adjuster off the rod and set up the pedal first. i like it even with my foot or slightly below it when i'm on the bike, it's faster to get on the brake if you don't have to lift your foot.
then set the lever so it just stops at or near vertical with finger pressure, now put the rod in and adjust the nut.
your pulling on the splined shaft now, you want to twist it

 

love it! almost what i see in my head for mine. just want to know about the bar and riser set up you used. im also from the burgh, would be great to see it