starter clutch issues

I love the idea of cuting the frame and creating a quick access frame member. It'd be really cool if you did that and posted the pictures and a write up of lessons learned. Which side do you think you could get away with doing that on? How far down the front of the frame would you cut? How far back? Questions, questions, I'm eager now!

 

It was on a vulcan 750. Alternator had died, and needed the motor out to get that left case off. Its got a removable right side frame leg, but that didn't help me ... So I decided that the left frame needed to be sliced open.
So I picked a nice and bright morning in CA ensuring I'll have the whole day to saw and saw and saw with my little sawzall ... and ... and ... 20 mins its done. BTW That included a run to walmart to get steel cutting blades for my jig saw ... the rear section needed a jig saw instead of a sawzall ... Oh yea ... the frame was all of a 32nd of an inch thick. I have been conked on the head by thugs with pipe that was made of better steel than that one. I dont have pics ... cos it was over before we could click :lol: .
I then lay the damn thing over and used a 1 1/8th hole saw to remove the welded in sleeves for motor mounts. Then I used a 1 inch hex rod, drilled it on the corners and knocked that in, welded the frame to it, ran the motor mount bolts through that and on the bottom sliced that rod into a lap joint and welded it to the 2 ends. I had to cut an inch gap and make it bolt on.
I can see now ... my idler gear is going to come right off the top of the case. My dremel tool is itching ... 5 mins and its done I think. The hard part will be to make sure its the problem and not the starter clutch.
I'll keep y'all posted.
Cool.
Srinath.

 

Is there any way (other than the way posted) to remove the generator from the shaft so that I can get at the starter clutch??

 

Other than the big bolt screwed into the middle of the generator stator, no. Sorry, this is one where your better off just doing it the right way. I wouldn't want to dork up my alternator, they are just too expensive to futz.

 

An interesting point ...

"Starter Clutch Replacement Shortcut"

First appeared on the Internet: May 19th, 2005 ... '05 ~~ Five

In an Yahoo Group Forum which no longer exists.

The main reason I'd like to bring this to your attention is because:

I wrote it!

And, at least three people I know, who read it ... did it! Back then.

 

What would you guys suggest using to get the three Torx screws out. They are in there really friggen tight. Firstly, are they supposed to be that tight?? Cause I can't get them out with a hand drive, you think that I might have to use air power??

 

You need the Torx Socket, a 6-Inch long, 1/2 Inch extension and a Hand Held Impact Tool.

They will loosen upon Impact.
They are installed with Thread Locker on the fittings and you need to put Thread Locker on them when they are reinstalled and torqued back down.

I sometimes use the Torx Socket, a 6-Inch Extention and a 1/2 Inch Drive Pry Bar ... which I give a firm whack too with a Hammer Handle.

 

I have gotten as far as getting the stator and mag off, but when it comes to the three torx screws, they won't budge. tried heat, screw extractors, etc...would it be feasable to simply drill them out and then re-tap the holes to allow for new screws?? Please let me know, I am at the end of my chain and fresh out of ideas....I need to get it working. I just don't want to completly screw it up. PLEASE HELP

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No.
Those screws will successfully be extracted by using an Impact tool to loosen them.

If you make a mistake of any kind drilling them out, you'll have difficulty you cannot imagine ... reassembling the engine.

(Email Karl and have him tell you how he got them out. You should invest in a Hand Held Impact Tool, now that you're this far into the job.)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... act+driver

You need one of those and a Torx Drive Socket to fit the Tool!

 

The only thing I can add to the starter clutch issue is...do it right or spend twice as much time sorting out the problems from not doing it right.

Getting the torx screws out can be a pain but there is one correct way only - with a torx bit and an impact driver.

Other suggestions may work but also may cause significant problems in the process. Nothing worse that getting into the starter clutch, fixing it and then have problems with re-assembly after you have completed the one job on the XJ which is rated in degrees of difficulty at 11 on a scale of 10.

KH

 

Don't fight those Torx Screws.
You can damage them and then you'll make the job miserable if not impossible to continue without resorting to the "Long Form"

The Impact Tool is on sale.
It will be the best 20-Bucks you'll ever spend.

A couple of whacks on the Impact Tool and you'll be done with those Torx Screws that went in there with a generous amount of Thread Locker.

 

Plus two on the hand held impact tool! I have removed countless tough screws with mine. One of my favorite tools in my box!

 

If you can find one cheap enough, these are the be-all and end-all of manual impact wrenches:

The Swench!

How does 2000 lb/ft from a manual wrench grab you. Of course, at $3000 for a 1" drive unit, they aren't for everybody. The 1/2" is good for 500 lb/ft (adjustable) which would be a bit more practical.

 

I've already one.
No. Two.
I use them every week.
I mean; every day.
Minute.
Second.
Constantly using it!

SNL Chic - LOL

 

Looks like my starter clutch is gone too, so from viewing the posts, it looks like it's over haul time ... rats... only got a couple of rides in since I bought the bike.

 

Wow good reading as i was /am having this problem,(read 3 pages to get a good idea of it) but it kicks in and out but often just starts right up. i have Mobil 1 20w50 in it and am wondering if the synthetics is the problem? just regular ol plain a## oil huh? i so love the mobil 1.....(has worked well over the years for me),what about an additive like maybe PROLONG thats supposed to TREAT THE METAL not the oil??? thanks in advance!

 

I rebuilt the engine completely, changed the starter clutch , and have just over 500 miles on it now. I'm using Mobil 1, and it seems to run better every time I get on it. Mobil 1 was recommended to me by several small engine machanics as a break in oil. But if the bike is happy, I continue to use it. Several threads in here about chaps using a heavier oil ...W40 or W50.

 

That Mobil-1, 20W/50 says it's made for Bikes.
I don't know.

The Trans-Clutch and the Starter-Clutch are two different mechanisms.
The Starter Clutch has some "Moving Parts" that replace worn-down parts that engage to start the Bike.

You get a handful of Springs and Pins that replace the ones in the Starter Clutch that's gone bad. Reasonably priced; too!
That's the GOOD News.

The BAD News is:
How many pages of Workshop Manual Engine tear-down instructions it takes to illustrate the removal of the Engine and it's complete dismantling to gain access to the Starter Clutch and it's tiny parts.

There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man.
It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the cases of your Engine and the pit of your stomach.

This is the dimension of imagination and the realization of being totally screwed and in denial about it.
It is an area which we call "The Twilight Zone".

 

these bikes were built before synthetics and I have yet to see one that didnt have problems with either the trans clutch or starter clutch when running it.

 

What parts of the starter clutch will need replacing, is it just the 3 pins, springs, gismos?