Converting to a Spin-on Style Oil Filter

Len sells the specially machined socket that you need to install the adapter. It's the same size as you need for the clutch basket nut and a few others, so it's worth getting (unless you have access to a lathe to machine your own socket).

 

Hah, not unless I can make the socket out of wood! Yeah, I'll be asking him for one soon. I just cracked the clutch case open today to try to suss some things out, so I won't be putting oil in until I get a new gasket, so I might as well get the socket too while I can still redo it oil-free. I didn't read the instructions close enough to realize the thin nut needed to be torqued, not just snugged, hence I didn't get it with the kit.

 

To be clear, the only machining required is to thin the outside of the socket wall so it can fit into the recess for that nut. A person with a drill press, a file, and a lot of patience could make one.

 

If they had any 30mm sockets at my local hardware stores (trust me, I checked them all), then I might have the patience to go with my file and press. Alas...

 

Auto parts stores have them.

 

Very nice!

 

the nut holds the adapter plate to the engine, so does the oil filter. All the nut does is hold the pipe out so the filter can screw on to it the proper distance.

 

Nice job.

 

For what it's worth some people suggest pouring some fresh oil in the filter before installing, a little messy but the idea is that you won't get a dry start when you start it the first time after changing the oil.

 

It has been scientifically proven that an XJ can be run at full throttle for almost an hour without any oil at all in the sump.

Well not exactly scientificaly. Some biker trash tried to blow one up at a rally several years ago, and failed.

 

I think I saw that one. Didn't he have to eventually pour gasoline on it or something after like two hours?

 

hey what did that conversion kit cost you? I couldnt find it on Lens page

 

hmm... uh... $80 something? You expect me to keep receipts? God, you're like my CPA.

 

dangit man your supposed to know this stuff! =P

 

Lucky for you, I might not keep receipts, but PayPal keeps a history! After shipping, and including the oil filter (the Purolator one), it was $91.90.

Also, bam:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-e-engine.44640/#post-395169

 

Thanks mate

 

How do I order the conversion kit? I don't see an option anywhere

 

How do I order it?

 

Send me an e-mail at: info@xj4ever.com or use the "Start A Conversation" feature on this website!

 

Awesome Thanks

 

What is better about a spin on oil filter?

 

Faster oil changes, more filter media choices, no fighting a stuck or rounded-off filter housing bolt, no losing the rubber washer. But mainly it's a preference, not a must-do.

 

on a 550 if you use a mac 4 to 1 exhaust the spin on filter will fit between the headers , where the stock filter housing will not come out between them.
you have to roll it to remove filter

 

Just getting started here, so thanks for the reply

 

what bike do you have?
if you click on your user name at top of page , then click signiture you can add your bike there and we will all see it in your posts.
like you can see under my post. this is helpfull to us all

 

Ok thanks, I just bought a 83 XJ 750 Maxim for 500 bucks.. drained the fuel tank, changed oil, new spark plugs, new battery and she fired right up!

 

I got one earlier this year and an 82 as well working on both of them . 82 was running when I picked it up but has a chopped frame
rebuilding the carbs for the 83. 82 has pods bad gas mileage and plugs get black quick can not wait to dig into those carbs to see what po did to rejet for pods..

500 is a good price for a running bike

 

Other than being faster to change the oil filter what is the advantage of this conversion?

Ed

 

Far superior filtration over stock.

 

Any data on this? Just want to know if the initial expense is worth it.

 

Yes.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

Note that even the worst performing filter in this study is about 50% larger, physically, than the stock filter. Larger size equals more surface area for filtration.

 

Also, converting to this style eliminates the oil cleaner cover, the easy-to-strip by-pass bolt, and all the other associated o-rings and seals needed when performing an oil change using a stock system. These are all things that don't come with the stock filter replacement. You lose or damage one of those things, you'll have to order (and wait for) a new one.

 

Makes sense to me. Only thing that kind of bothers me (my paranoia) is that some tweeker will unscrew it a parking lot.
Thanks for the reply and info.
Ed

 

Well, at the risk of making you more paranoid, someone could do all kinds of stuff to your bike in a parking lot. At least with the oil filter, they're likely to burn their hand hitting the headers in the process.

 

I don't have a conversion kit, but have been changing stock oil filter in mine since new. I figure I probably have 60+ filter changes under my belt (about 2x/season).

What makes the conversion attractive to me (other than ease and less mess) is the fact that I have to look at a diagram just about every time I change filter to make sure the washer, spring, filter, etc. are going on in right sequence and correct orientation.

I guess it hasn't been attractive enough to actually modify. I also resist because everything else (except brake lines, brake pads and spark plug caps) are basically what came on the bike off the showroom. I want to keep it as much "survivor" as I can.

 

I have yet to do this, but if one uses a mini oil filer there should be enough room in the facory filter housing to machine it into a cover. There might even be just enough room to make it work with the larger oil filter.

 

If I changed my oil filter that often I would probably go for the conversion.
You can always change it back to stock.

 

He doesn't change the oil too often (excessively). Cgutz bought his bike from a Yamaha dealer when it was brand new.

 

ding, ding, ding.....

I wonder how may Xjer's have "original owner" bikes? I think there was a thread some time back, but not many people joined.

I've posted this picture before, but just for fun....Polaroid of a proud owner of a brand, spankin' new XJ...I had more hair then, and it was brown. Less gut too....

 

I print photos and hang them on my wall with torque specs for oil changes, chain adjustment torque specs ect just a glance away.

 

I'm the third owner of my bike, but I've owed it the longest, 28 years.
Ed

 

I have this same photo on my phone now, but have to make sure I call it up before my hands are oily...

 

And yet, it's the shoes that always make me laugh!

 

Does anyone have a list of spin on filters that are suitable for our bikes?

 

I use the Mann W67/1 which is perfectly adequate, and a bloody good make, but I intend to put a slightly longer one on next change.
https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 67~1
Observe the filter rubber ring seal dimensions and the fixing thread, plus an anti drain-back valve and relief valve pop-off pressure.

This is the longer one...
https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 610~3
If you can be arsed, you can look through the list of equivalents, but Mann filters are available everywhere via Amazon or even your local motor factor.

 

Cheers Dave l have used Mann filters before and had no problems with them.

The Haynes manual states the factory bypass valve setting pressure is 0.8 to 1.2 bar and the relief valve opening pressure is 4.4 to 5.4 bar.