First Cafe Racer Mod! 1983 XJ750 Maxim

I'm super excited to get another opportunity at this again, I started one years ago but a dog chewed up the entire wiring and financial times became very hard... but I found a much better bike to start once again!

I purchased a 1983 XJ750 Maxim (not the Midnight) 14,000 miles, runs great!

I've been doing a LOT of research and I have a pretty good idea of what I want to do and how but it can be tough to find a few particular accessories that I hope this awesome community can assist with!
Ultra thin or flat Lithium Ion battery:
Several years ago I found someone making these to be hidden away on a motorcycle.
My goal is to create a narrow but long compartment underneath the Cafe seat with the fuse box and everything else that is usually in the "mid section" and tuck them away.
I will also create air flow to help keep certain components cool such as the rectifier.
Yes I will have pods, likely with the boots to prevent problems

I'm also looking for a Seca Gas Tank. (Trade?)

Does anyone know the difference between the 2 different oil drain plugs?
There's one underneath the oil filter and another near the center stand.

I would like to upgrade the wiring and fuse box, I've seen another person who created an entire wiring harness using Marine grade wires and connections.
Wiring will be my Achilles Heel, does anyone know someone who can do something similar with the wiring harness?? I'm willing to pay!

Anyone upgrade lights to HID?


I will sell some parts from this bike if you want them!
Let me know if you want anything!
Handlebars, Grips, controls... (right side reservoir and lever are badly damaged)
Side covers
Seat
Everything Seat related!
Rear shocks are still good!
Stock exhaust headers
Airbox and everything attached (except for boots)
Turn Signals
Reflectors
Headlight
*Will trade Maxim Tank for compatible Seca tank!

**Speedometer/ Tachometer are damaged and not working

 

The oil drain plug under the center stand drains the oil from the middle gear. You can pretty well ignore it as there isn't much oil in there, and they tend to want to snap off.

 

Thank you!
That's good news, I kept finding different opinions on it, I may do it for my first oil change but after that, I'll take your advice!

 

You have to drop the exhaust to access it (on the 750), which is why they tend to break off; nobody wants to take the exhaust off to do an oil change.

 

check the wanted for sale forum there are a few looking for the right side cover hard to find.

member chacal sells fuse box up grades and the wires for it start a conversation with him or go to his web site and send him an email www.xj4ever.com

 

sounds like you want the "minimum wiring diagram " that's here somewhere.
someday you'll hate yourself for losing the air box and filter. consider putting the r/r, tci and fuses in it and painting it to match the tins

 

What do you mean when you say "consider putting the r/r, tci and fuses in it and painting it to match the tins"

I would like to remove anything that's not needed but mostly ensure it's updated and reliable.

 

well if you look in the air box with the filter in it, i don't think it would be too hard to fit the regulator in it from the inside and the fins outside. the tci isn't very big it would fit in there too and with the minimum wiring, inline fuses could be anywhere.

 

OH! That's a great idea using stock parts!
My idea is that hopefully I can find a Lithium battery that is possibly long and thin, create a pan to fit under a Cafe Racer seat between the subframe bars with the fuse, rectifier and anything else in the area and attach it to the pan.
Depending on size, the pan may show a little bit but it would be minimal as I would like to have a nice open midsection on the motorcycle OR create a fake Oil Canister and store everything inside.
Here are a couple examples:

 

i don't know if those batteries come in shapes. i have seen them on the top front of the swingarm
that red bike has a tin can with a hose clamp, he should have kept the airbox

 

In the Red One, "Maxim Transformed", he has the battery, Rectifier and fuses hidden in there!
He will likely have issues not using boots causing the air to flow past the "bean" on the Carburetor Inlets.
Someone else in this group mentioned they have K&N Pods on theirs that don't have a lip causing that particular issue, still though, I'd rather just keep the boots on so the air hits the entire unit as it's suppose to!

 

So I'm rebuilding the Calipers with brand new seals and Pistons and I've run into a situation so this is a 3 part question:

1. Can I buy new Caliper Pins?
They both have etching that concerns me they may catch and not slide properly and cause uneven wear, 1 of them was a struggle and "almost" stripped!
(required penetrating oil and 5 hours in Arizona's 105* Sun!)

2. Caliper piston won't budge!
Tried using slip joint pliers with teeth to pull them out, am I going at this wrong, do I need to hook up the brake lines again with fluid and squeeze the lever to get them out?

3.The arm on the Caliper that holds it onto the Forks, What kind of grease should I use?
Do they have a special function that I'm not aware of such as separating the pads after releasing the brakes.
Did I create an issue by pulling it apart and need to do something to create pressure back in the system. May seem like an odd question but my mind tries to think of all possibilities as this is a major learning experience for me!

 

A grease gun threaded into the caliper where the banjo fitting threads in. Pump it full of grease piston will move out of bore. You will have to clean it out completely. Under no circumstances should any plyers be used on the pistons grooves from the jaws will cause problems with the seals.

 

YES!! And the other items below would also need to be inspected and replaced as necessary:

HCP3501 OEM front brake pad-to-caliper RETAINING PIN, threaded, fits either side caliper. Fits all XJ650 Turbo models, and 1981-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Use 1 per caliper. NOTE and BEWARE!: these screws can be a beast to remove! Each:
$



HCP3296 OEM brake pin slider BOOT, for the large slider pin. Use 1 per caliper on all XJ650 Turbo models, and 1981-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Each:
$

HCP22144 Aftermarket brake pin slider BOOT, for the large slider pin. Use 1 per caliper on all XJ650 Turbo models, and 1981-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Each:
$


HCP3297 OEM brake pin slider BOOT, for the small slider pin. Use 1 per caliper on 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, all XJ650 Turbo, and XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Each:
$

HCP22145 Aftermarket brake pin slider BOOT, for the small slider pin. Use 1 per caliper on 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, all XJ650 Turbo, and XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Each:
$


HCP9814SET2 Aftermarket brake pin slider DUAL-RINGS, for the small slider pin. This is the specially formed "molded dual-ring" with an air relief port that is used on the very end of the small slider pin only. Use 1 per caliper on all XJ650 Turbo models, and 1981-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Set of two rings does both calipers:
$

Brake System Chemicals:

bst18) Aftermarket brake caliper and master cylinder ASSEMBLY GREASES, these "ultimate" greases are what professionals use when performing component re-assembly.

Our HCP10736 or HCP24612 ultra-high temp (2800-F) melting point insures that grease will remain in place and not melt. Smear a ultra thin coating of this ultra-viscous grease on the caliper slider pins and the back of the caliper anti-rattle shims to insure a smooth, chatter-free system. Also high recommended for re-assembly of all master cylinder metal-to-metal contact components.

The HCP24613 red grease for rubber seals is a castor-lime based lubricant made specifically for hydraulic braking systems, and which allows for the free movement of the seals, ease of assembly, and will prevent water entry It’s safe for use with all natural and synthetic rubber materials, will not cause rubber to swell or dissolve as other types of grease can, and is both water- and solvent-resistant.

The HCP24592 copper anti-seize is for use on mounting bolts and any threaded fasteners used in caliper or master cylinder mounting, brake lever pivot bolts, etc.


HCP10736 Aftermarket packet of CERAMIC ULTRA-TEMP ASSEMBLY GREASE, This 4-gram packet is enough for one caliper (or two, if you're very frugal!) or one master cylinder. NOTE: not for use on rubber fluid seals, piston cups, etc. For those items, we recommend our HCP24613 brake seal installation grease. Each:
$

HCP24612 Aftermarket tub of CERAMIC ULTRA-TEMP ASSEMBLY GREASE. This 1/8-ounce tub will do many a brake job! Use on metal-to-metal contact points, including slider pins, fasteners, etc. Can also be used on the back of the brake pads/shims as a basic “anti-squeak” lubricant. NOTE: not for use on rubber fluid seals, piston cups, etc. For internal parts, use the HCP24613 brake seal installation grease. Each:
$

HCP24613 Aftermarket tub of RED RUBBER BRAKE ASSEMBLY GREASE. This 1/8-ounce tub will do many a brake job! Specially designed for use on internal pistons, rubber seals, etc. Each:
$

HCP24592 Aftermarket tub of COPPER ANTI-SEIZE PASTE. This 1/8-ounce tub will do many a brake job! For use on mounting bolts, threaded fasteners, etc. Each:
$


HCP24599KIT Aftermarket caliper and master cylinder BRAKE ASSEMBLY GREASES SET, contains more than enough for a full brake system rebuild: 1/8 ounce tub of red rubber grease for the rubber seals and pistons, and 1/8 ounce tub of copper grease for threaded fasteners, and a 1/8 ounce tube of ceramic high-temp grease for the slider pins, etc. A lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
$

 

I had a rebuild kit so the seals and pistons are going to be trash afterwards, I just need them out so I can repaint and rebuild!!
Thank for that suggestion! I gotta “squeeze” them out!

 

Make sure its pointing away from your face, piston may POP out!

 

Ahahahaha as funny as that is, it’s more great advice!
Btw, what kind of metal are the Calipers made out of?

 

Cast aluminum I believe

 

I'm going to be repainting the Calipers soon. Primer, Paint, Clear Coat...
~I've seen that Aluminum requires some sort of "Etching"
~I've seen an Aluminum ready Self etching Primer, not High heat though....
~I've seen Caliper Primer, not sure if it's for Aluminum...

Is there a Primer Paint you recommend that will be both High Heat and work on the Aluminum???

I have VHT Caliper Paint (900* degree) already and VHT Engine level High Heat(1200* degree) clear coat that's chip resistant

 

You won't need high heat paint on the calipers. They don't get that hot.

 

Even in Arizona?! We already almost at boiling!
I know the engine Clearcoat is a bit extreme, but brakes are known to reach 400°...

 

Nevermind. I'm off in my thinking.

 

Chacal has the correct Yamaha colors in stock.
Scroll down about halfway.
xj-parts-catalog-section-o-emblems-stripes-decals-paint.44631

 

get your calipers anodized and be done with it

 

Are the bolts that mount the Calipers to the forks stainless steel or not?
Caswell has 2 kits for turning metals black, zinc oxide or stainless steel blackener.
I’m likely going to do this to a lot of bolts in the bike!

 

None of the fasteners are stainless. Stainless steel was quite expensive at the time.

 

i never had a coating or treatment last once it met a wrench

 

Do you know of a way that would stand up to a wrench?My calipers and lower Forks are going to be black, kind of want those to blend in.

 

Maybe black oxide fasteners that match the same specs as the original fasteners and be very carefully tightening them to spec?

 

Paint the heads black with model paint and a fine brush. Touch them up whenever you need to wrench on them.
That's what I do

 

I noticed a few posts above, you mentioned wanting to upgrade the fusebox. I'd say your best bet is to get the upgrade kit that Chacal sells. It comes with two extra circuits for extra equipment and has fuses that glow if they've blown. I just installed it a month or so ago - simple to do: Drill two holes into plastic for mounting the fusebox, wire and solder appropriately!

P.S., Good to see I'm not the only desert rat on here. Salutations from 20 miles down the road!

 

P.S., Good to see I'm not the only desert rat on here. Salutations from 20 miles down the road![/QUOTE]

Great suggestion!
I'm in Ahwatukee, if you needs stock parts, let me know!

 

I'm considering purchasing this LED Lamp/Bucket + Mount combo, will I have any issues?
Connectors, wattage, unexpected explosions....
Shows 45w High Beam, 30 W Low Beam.
My bike seems to have the typical 3 prong Headlight setup, not sure if there's a size or electrical load difference I should be aware of.
Yes I am wanting to go with the smaller 5.75"

https://www.amazon.com/HOZAN-Headli...SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail&th=1#customerReviews

 

do the words "beam pattern" or "D.O.T. approved" appear anywhere on that page or in any reviews?

 

They do not...
I’ve seen that quite a few times on others, I certain DOT is a safety standard but is there other concerns I should worried about when it doesn’t appear?

 

Your safety is on you. No car out there sees you. I'd play it safe and only get certified lighting, and not poke the proverbial bear.

 

certified means they have a beam pattern that doesn't blind oncoming traffic. pull a car 15 feet from a wall, notice how the light pattern has a cutoff at the top. now try a flashlight, big round pattern, not good for driving. or it might make a ten foot circle 50 feet away, also not good. forget the lumen ratings, there's too many ways to measure it to be any use.
none of the reviews mention beam pattern, that's because they were probably written by that guys friends who ride skateboards

 

I asked the seller and he stated it is DOT approved!
I saw it in the photo but I wanted have them make the statement.

 

A ticket for using nonapproved equipment.

 

Now that I know it’s DOT approved, it’s a sealed unit with the 3 prong setup, should I be ok?
I’ve seen MANY LED Headlights with the same 3 prong plug but state it’s for Harley’s and a list of specific bikes... and some that they would not fit, could they be referring to fitting within a bucket size and style?
My concern at this point is just the plug which “appears” like it would connect.

 

I can't speak for that specific unit, but generally the plug will be correct, but clearance in the bucket may be an issue. Another thing that sometimes comes up is the retention tabs on the bulb not being correct for the socket.

 

1. Clearance for wires?
2. Good to know about the clips, I will probably put a zip tie on just in case!

 

Clearance for the whole thing, with enough air space so the wiring doesn't get cooked.
From the few instances I've had to deal with it, either the bulb tabs, or the bucket slots might need to be trimmed (mind you, that was just on an aftermarket LED bulb). A zip-tie would just end up melting, and not provide a secure hold.

 

Oh! So the heat from the Bulbs could melt everything... never thought of that!
Does LED get drastically hotter than the stock incandescent?

 

The LED lights that are good do generate a quite a bit of heat, and require quite a large heat sink to get rid of it.

 

Uh oh,I forgot to take a picture....
What is the orientation of these shims?
I can’t find anything in the group or online.

1. The long shim has a mid area that is wider than the other side, which one is closest to the Caliper piston.
2. I think the C-shaped one goes on the side of a brake pad but I have no idea which side and the way it’s orientated!

 

The c shape one should go on the fork leg where the inner pad sits. Put a thin layer of brake grease on it where the pad will ride, the other goes inside the caliper to put a little pressure on the top sides of the pads. As to it's correct orientation I'm unsure but possible it only fits one way?

 

The Maxim 750 brakes are quite a bit different from the Maxim 650 brakes (and there are two types of Maxim 750 brakes for some special bonus fun). That "c" shaped shim acts as the bearing surface between the caliper and the caliper support bracket. It only fits on one way.

The anti-rattle shim (lowest in the photo) does fit above the pads in that hollow. It doesn't quite look like it's the correct one, but if it fits it should work fine.

There should also be an anti-squeal shim that goes on the back of the pad the contacts the piston.

 

Ah Ha!
Thanks K-more! That C shaped one does go on the bracket, totally made sense after you mentioned it!

The long one on the bottom does fit, but from an analytical point of view, I would think that the skinny side would be towards the piston to encourage the brake pad to pull away from the rotor but only the thick side fits towards the piston.... could it be the thickness of the paint or just not meant to go in that way??? @chacal

I have 1 anti rattle shim on a brake pad, shucks I just put in an order with a Chacal too, I may have to include it in my next one...