1. Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

First Cafe Racer Mod! 1983 XJ750 Maxim

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by May_J_Aaron, Jun 24, 2018.

  1. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
    I'm super excited to get another opportunity at this again, I started one years ago but a dog chewed up the entire wiring and financial times became very hard... but I found a much better bike to start once again!

    I purchased a 1983 XJ750 Maxim (not the Midnight) 14,000 miles, runs great!

    I've been doing a LOT of research and I have a pretty good idea of what I want to do and how but it can be tough to find a few particular accessories that I hope this awesome community can assist with!
    Ultra thin or flat Lithium Ion battery:
    Several years ago I found someone making these to be hidden away on a motorcycle.
    My goal is to create a narrow but long compartment underneath the Cafe seat with the fuse box and everything else that is usually in the "mid section" and tuck them away.
    I will also create air flow to help keep certain components cool such as the rectifier.
    Yes I will have pods, likely with the boots to prevent problems

    I'm also looking for a Seca Gas Tank. (Trade?)

    Does anyone know the difference between the 2 different oil drain plugs?
    There's one underneath the oil filter and another near the center stand.

    I would like to upgrade the wiring and fuse box, I've seen another person who created an entire wiring harness using Marine grade wires and connections.
    Wiring will be my Achilles Heel, does anyone know someone who can do something similar with the wiring harness?? I'm willing to pay!

    Anyone upgrade lights to HID?


    I will sell some parts from this bike if you want them!

    Let me know if you want anything!
    Handlebars, Grips, controls... (right side reservoir and lever are badly damaged)
    Side covers
    Seat
    Everything Seat related!
    Rear shocks are still good!
    Stock exhaust headers
    Airbox and everything attached (except for boots)
    Turn Signals
    Reflectors
    Headlight
    *Will trade Maxim Tank for compatible Seca tank!

    **Speedometer/ Tachometer are damaged and not working

    Maxim stock.jpg Maxim Front.jpg Maxim Left Rear.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2018
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    17,367
    Likes Received:
    5,455
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    City of Seven Hills
    The oil drain plug under the center stand drains the oil from the middle gear. You can pretty well ignore it as there isn't much oil in there, and they tend to want to snap off.
     
  3. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
    Thank you!
    That's good news, I kept finding different opinions on it, I may do it for my first oil change but after that, I'll take your advice!
     
  4. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    17,367
    Likes Received:
    5,455
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    City of Seven Hills
    You have to drop the exhaust to access it (on the 750), which is why they tend to break off; nobody wants to take the exhaust off to do an oil change.
     
  5. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    10,351
    Likes Received:
    2,834
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Great North Woods
    check the wanted for sale forum there are a few looking for the right side cover hard to find.

    member chacal sells fuse box up grades and the wires for it start a conversation with him or go to his web site and send him an email www.xj4ever.com
     
    May_J_Aaron likes this.
  6. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,121
    Likes Received:
    1,673
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Beaver Falls, PA
    sounds like you want the "minimum wiring diagram " that's here somewhere.
    someday you'll hate yourself for losing the air box and filter. consider putting the r/r, tci and fuses in it and painting it to match the tins
     
  7. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
    What do you mean when you say "consider putting the r/r, tci and fuses in it and painting it to match the tins"

    I would like to remove anything that's not needed but mostly ensure it's updated and reliable.
     
  8. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,121
    Likes Received:
    1,673
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Beaver Falls, PA
    well if you look in the air box with the filter in it, i don't think it would be too hard to fit the regulator in it from the inside and the fins outside. the tci isn't very big it would fit in there too and with the minimum wiring, inline fuses could be anywhere.
     
    k-moe likes this.
  9. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
    OH! That's a great idea using stock parts!
    My idea is that hopefully I can find a Lithium battery that is possibly long and thin, create a pan to fit under a Cafe Racer seat between the subframe bars with the fuse, rectifier and anything else in the area and attach it to the pan.
    Depending on size, the pan may show a little bit but it would be minimal as I would like to have a nice open midsection on the motorcycle OR create a fake Oil Canister and store everything inside.
    Here are a couple examples: Maxim transformed.jpg black cafe racer.jpg
     
  10. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,121
    Likes Received:
    1,673
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Beaver Falls, PA
    i don't know if those batteries come in shapes. i have seen them on the top front of the swingarm
    that red bike has a tin can with a hose clamp, he should have kept the airbox
     
  11. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
    In the Red One, "Maxim Transformed", he has the battery, Rectifier and fuses hidden in there!
    He will likely have issues not using boots causing the air to flow past the "bean" on the Carburetor Inlets.
    Someone else in this group mentioned they have K&N Pods on theirs that don't have a lip causing that particular issue, still though, I'd rather just keep the boots on so the air hits the entire unit as it's suppose to!
     
  12. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
    So I'm rebuilding the Calipers with brand new seals and Pistons and I've run into a situation so this is a 3 part question:

    1. Can I buy new Caliper Pins?
    They both have etching that concerns me they may catch and not slide properly and cause uneven wear, 1 of them was a struggle and "almost" stripped!
    (required penetrating oil and 5 hours in Arizona's 105* Sun!)

    2. Caliper piston won't budge!
    Tried using slip joint pliers with teeth to pull them out, am I going at this wrong, do I need to hook up the brake lines again with fluid and squeeze the lever to get them out?

    3.The arm on the Caliper that holds it onto the Forks, What kind of grease should I use?
    Do they have a special function that I'm not aware of such as separating the pads after releasing the brakes.
    Did I create an issue by pulling it apart and need to do something to create pressure back in the system. May seem like an odd question but my mind tries to think of all possibilities as this is a major learning experience for me!
     
  13. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
  14. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,218
    Likes Received:
    920
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Nothern Indiana
    A grease gun threaded into the caliper where the banjo fitting threads in. Pump it full of grease piston will move out of bore. You will have to clean it out completely. Under no circumstances should any plyers be used on the pistons grooves from the jaws will cause problems with the seals.
     
  15. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

    Messages:
    7,958
    Likes Received:
    1,206
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    At My Computer
    YES!! And the other items below would also need to be inspected and replaced as necessary:

    HCP3501 OEM front brake pad-to-caliper RETAINING PIN, threaded, fits either side caliper. Fits all XJ650 Turbo models, and 1981-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Use 1 per caliper. NOTE and BEWARE!: these screws can be a beast to remove! Each:
    $



    HCP3296 OEM brake pin slider BOOT, for the large slider pin. Use 1 per caliper on all XJ650 Turbo models, and 1981-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Each:
    $

    HCP22144 Aftermarket brake pin slider BOOT, for the large slider pin. Use 1 per caliper on all XJ650 Turbo models, and 1981-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Each:
    $


    HCP3297 OEM brake pin slider BOOT, for the small slider pin. Use 1 per caliper on 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, all XJ650 Turbo, and XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Each:
    $

    HCP22145 Aftermarket brake pin slider BOOT, for the small slider pin. Use 1 per caliper on 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II, all XJ650 Turbo, and XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Each:
    $


    HCP9814SET2 Aftermarket brake pin slider DUAL-RINGS, for the small slider pin. This is the specially formed "molded dual-ring" with an air relief port that is used on the very end of the small slider pin only. Use 1 per caliper on all XJ650 Turbo models, and 1981-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and XJ750 Police (37H) models. Set of two rings does both calipers:
    $




    Brake System Chemicals:

    bst18) Aftermarket brake caliper and master cylinder ASSEMBLY GREASES, these "ultimate" greases are what professionals use when performing component re-assembly.

    Our HCP10736 or HCP24612 ultra-high temp (2800-F) melting point insures that grease will remain in place and not melt. Smear a ultra thin coating of this ultra-viscous grease on the caliper slider pins and the back of the caliper anti-rattle shims to insure a smooth, chatter-free system. Also high recommended for re-assembly of all master cylinder metal-to-metal contact components.

    The HCP24613 red grease for rubber seals is a castor-lime based lubricant made specifically for hydraulic braking systems, and which allows for the free movement of the seals, ease of assembly, and will prevent water entry It’s safe for use with all natural and synthetic rubber materials, will not cause rubber to swell or dissolve as other types of grease can, and is both water- and solvent-resistant.

    The HCP24592 copper anti-seize is for use on mounting bolts and any threaded fasteners used in caliper or master cylinder mounting, brake lever pivot bolts, etc.


    HCP10736 Aftermarket packet of CERAMIC ULTRA-TEMP ASSEMBLY GREASE, This 4-gram packet is enough for one caliper (or two, if you're very frugal!) or one master cylinder. NOTE: not for use on rubber fluid seals, piston cups, etc. For those items, we recommend our HCP24613 brake seal installation grease. Each:
    $

    HCP24612 Aftermarket tub of CERAMIC ULTRA-TEMP ASSEMBLY GREASE. This 1/8-ounce tub will do many a brake job! Use on metal-to-metal contact points, including slider pins, fasteners, etc. Can also be used on the back of the brake pads/shims as a basic “anti-squeak” lubricant. NOTE: not for use on rubber fluid seals, piston cups, etc. For internal parts, use the HCP24613 brake seal installation grease. Each:
    $

    HCP24613 Aftermarket tub of RED RUBBER BRAKE ASSEMBLY GREASE. This 1/8-ounce tub will do many a brake job! Specially designed for use on internal pistons, rubber seals, etc. Each:
    $

    HCP24592 Aftermarket tub of COPPER ANTI-SEIZE PASTE. This 1/8-ounce tub will do many a brake job! For use on mounting bolts, threaded fasteners, etc. Each:
    $


    HCP24599KIT Aftermarket caliper and master cylinder BRAKE ASSEMBLY GREASES SET, contains more than enough for a full brake system rebuild: 1/8 ounce tub of red rubber grease for the rubber seals and pistons, and 1/8 ounce tub of copper grease for threaded fasteners, and a 1/8 ounce tube of ceramic high-temp grease for the slider pins, etc. A lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
    $
     
  16. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
    I had a rebuild kit so the seals and pistons are going to be trash afterwards, I just need them out so I can repaint and rebuild!!
    Thank for that suggestion! I gotta “squeeze” them out!
     
  17. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

    Messages:
    3,690
    Likes Received:
    1,654
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    America's friendly hat
    Make sure its pointing away from your face, piston may POP out!
     
  18. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
    Ahahahaha as funny as that is, it’s more great advice!
    Btw, what kind of metal are the Calipers made out of?
     
  19. Chitwood

    Chitwood Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    849
    Likes Received:
    358
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Fort Atkinson, Wisconsin
    Cast aluminum I believe
     
    k-moe likes this.
  20. May_J_Aaron

    May_J_Aaron Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Chandler, Arizona
    I'm going to be repainting the Calipers soon. Primer, Paint, Clear Coat...
    ~I've seen that Aluminum requires some sort of "Etching"
    ~I've seen an Aluminum ready Self etching Primer, not High heat though....
    ~I've seen Caliper Primer, not sure if it's for Aluminum...

    Is there a Primer Paint you recommend that will be both High Heat and work on the Aluminum???

    I have VHT Caliper Paint (900* degree) already and VHT Engine level High Heat(1200* degree) clear coat that's chip resistant
     

Share This Page