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Simmy's Naked Turbo Project

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Simmy, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    thanks for the info, $325 seems reasonable to me if it includes sandblasting. hopefully my quotes come in similar.
     
  2. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Yes sb and masking plus chemical dip to remove residual oil
     
  3. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Last time I did mine in 2016 it was $416.33 to sandblast and powder the frame, both stands, rear swing, brake bracket bar, and fork components. $175 of that was blasting, now that I look back that part seems a little high.
     
  4. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    Great project....

    The prep labor for powder coating is what drives the price demand for items. I'm fortunate to use a guy that will accept customer prepped parts. In prepping yourself you pretty much void any applicable guarantee for the coating longevity. It easily cuts the price in half or about that much.
    Without an enclosed blasting cabinet, larger parts are a real hassle blasting (what a mess) so the stuff I blast is on the smaller side. I'd leave the bigger items to the powder coating shop. I learned valuable lesson the hard way pushing my blasting boundaries.
    For a complete frame coating including blasting prep, I believe you got the going rate at the price you mentioned. $325 Canadian is about $250 USD, I'd say your getting treated fairly if the coating quality is good.
    When you get your parts back all new looking you'll get charged with a burst motivation to get reassembly going. Been there....
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2019
  5. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    For sure, however the plan shifts to the motor now. I've always found it easier to fit the frame to the motor.
     
  6. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    The overhaul of the turbo unit is complete.
    He said it was in great shape and it had been previously disassembled as I suspected.
    This was my reasoning for getting a turbo pro to look it over, he has a digital balancer (it is not dynamic) that he uses and guaranteed me it is balanced.
    He did say many of the G-pop parts supplied were Chinese crap and he did not use much of this kit.
    The floating bearing supplied was OEM quality, O-rings were not.
    I will see what he didn't use once I get it back.
     
    ZXtasy and sybe like this.
  7. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    remanufactured turbo##.jpg

    re-manufactured turbo, just gorgeous!
    I have a new gasket to install at the waste gate elbow here in the pic.
    There's a skid plate in front of it, it needs some re-paint then this turbo is ready to install.
    remanufactured turbo#.jpg


    This is my Yamaha XJ engine stand.
    Kind of an undignified ending for the Seca donor bike.
    turbo motor in stand.jpg

    cams.jpg
    I verified that the motor is not seized today.
    It actually moved real easy as if it was just running yesterday.
    I sprayed each chamber with WD40 before i did that.
    I'm going to do a compression test, check/set the valves, inspect the oil pump, new Barnet clutch, inspect the alternator
    and just basic tuneup stuff. Looks good so far..
     
    sybe likes this.
  8. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    It finally warmed up enough to spend a few moments in my unheated garage.
    I found #1 intake valve loose actually. A shim I had on hand brought it back in spec.
    All others were in spec.
    Now I need to set up a battery for a compression test.
    There's no oil in the sump but I think there is enough residual oil everywhere turning it over with the starter shouldn't harm it.
     
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  9. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Put oil in her. Better to be safe than to damage the oil pump.
    If you were turning it by hand I wouldn't be concerned at all.
     
  10. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I really wasn't sure, that's why I mentioned it.
    Now I need to consider the oil plumbing to and from the turbo, 2 holes in the oilpan. Can't simply plug them off since one of them leads to the scavenge side of the oil pump.
    Ideally I would need to set up a short circuit loop without the turbo in place.
    Either that or just foresake the compression test until it's back together.
    From what I've seen I have no reason to doubt this motor.
     
  11. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    oil piping.jpg

    I've decided it will be easy enough to install the 2 solid pipe lines attached to the bottom of the motor then just connect them with a jumper hose as I've shown in red.
    Then once I've completed the compression test I can remove the jumper, plug the scavenge inlet (oil pipe 2) and observe how much oil is seeping past the check valve.
    It would be a real shame to discover a problem with the top end after the motor is installed in the frame.
    So much nicer when the motor is on the bench like this.
     
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  12. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    i am really impressed by this build, cant wait to see it finished.
     
  13. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    That is appreciated sybe. Unfortunately I don't have much to update at the moment.
    Last time I checked with the powder coater he still hadn't completed things and I'm not rushing him.
    I'm hoping to get back at it this weekend, looking to do the compression check and if good move on to the motor cosmetics.
    Not planning to be too anal about the motor as I do plan to tear it down at some later date and build a 738 or 853.
    I'm planning to just respray the cylinder block and head black, touch up the lower cases.
    There is a broken fin on the head I think I'll just epoxy in place prior to paint.
    I was planning to powder coat the clutch, shifter and alt covers but they're actually not too bad.
    I still haven't found a nice set of crank caps (oil pump covers). Everything I have now has YICS written on them, I like the original XJ650R blank style, or the XJ700N/FZ600 style that just say Yamaha, I have 2 new FZ600 caps but also an FZ that needs them.
    I have both style alt covers (finned & smooth), undecided which one to go with, probably the smooth.
    I have a non-YICS valve cover at the powder coater.
    I've got another list ready to send Chacal then almost everything should be ready to assemble.
     
  14. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Everything is back from the powder coater. In addition to the frame and wheels I had them do brake discs, 2 sets of passenger peg brackets, top and bottom fork crowns, rear brake lever, rear brake backing plate, headlight frame, valve cover and a few other bits and pieces. $650 for the entire lot. + taxes of course.
     
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  15. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    We need pictures !
     
  16. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Here's a sample of some of the parts, everything turned out real nice.
    I kept it conservative, everything stayed either black or silver.
    powder1.jpg
    I've seen some powder coated stuff done in imitation chrome but these guys do not offer that.
    The silver on the brake backing plate is as close to chrome as they offer.
    I know others have polished the backing plates and they look awesome, I do not have the time or patience for that.

    rear brake pedal.jpg
    This is the original rear Turbo brake pedal. They come in a black chrome and this one was looking shabby.
    The LJ pedal has an additional tab for the brake light that the RJ does not have. The brake light trigger is in a different spot.
    I don't know what other's experiences are but the electroplaters in my area are ridiculously expensive.
    IMG_20190228_214649.jpg
    The silver set go on the Turbo, the black set will go on my sidecar bike.
    I machined metal out of the original set and I was never happy the way they looked, also doubted their integrity after I did that.
    The RJ & LJ are not interchangeable BTW.
     
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  17. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I finally got around to a compression check. The 2 outside cylinders were lower - about 130 psi and the 2 inside cylinders were 140-150.
    The motor has been sitting a long time so I don't know if this will change once up and running.
    My old & cheap compression gauge reads 20 psi at atmospheric so I'm not hung up on the numbers.

    compression check.jpg
    check valve.jpg
    I filled the turbo feed check valve with parts cleaner while sitting on the work bench.
    After sitting like that for several hours no liquid leaked by.
    oil to turbo line.jpg
    I left the check valve line emptying into the oil basin during the compression check and it did flow oil.
    It seems to be working as intended.
    oil to turbo line waiting.jpg
    The motor is sitting with oil in it and I will check in a few days if the check valve leaks and fills this bag.

    scavenge line.jpg
    same thing with the scavenge line. The motor is sitting with oil in it, after a few days I'll see if oil is leaking past the scavenge pump.
     
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  18. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    Does the wife know that you have her good measuring cup?
     
  19. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    No she doesn't, but I did get her a new one.
     
  20. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure what this means but 1 & 4 took a lot of cranking to reach peak pressure, 2 & 3 peaked instantly.
     

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