What did you do to your Yamaha today?

Had my shoulder done 6 years ago and I can't believe the difference it made. I know the PT hurts like f@&$ but keep pushing and it'll all be worth it. Cheers!

 

I'm going to give a plug for the Viking 4 amp trickle charger from Harbor freight, yesterday I installed the connector , this charger has settings to charge standard, AMG battery as well as cold settings . With the supplies connector you can plug to this cord rather than using the clamp connectors on the battery posts . Once battery is charged display turns green . Not bad for less than 30$ I has a 20% discount from flyer ... give this product 2 thumbs up. Cheers

 

Representing bike week.

 

I finished the valve adjustment and buttoned her up and then SHE STARTED! So this means my new rectifier, coils, plug wires, fuse box, and like seven other new parts all work as they should! Hell, even the tach on my new gauge worked! I’m euphoric and beside myself with glee

 

Got it all set up on the lift table to remove the carbs(for some checking over and possible one size over stock jetting) and for front end removal for new fork seals and tapered roller bearings for the neck. I can only hope the other two Yamaha's sitting next to it dont get jealous it was the first on the table.

 

So much gratification from "fixing stuff". I'm addicted to rustorizing and flipping motorized objects. So far I've done a 1974 vette (mostly engine and suspension), a Dinli quad, an electric golf cart, numerous small 2 and 4-stroke garden tools. The 2013 Genesis Coupe 3.8 Turbo R&D project was my most expensive biz flop, though. KDM peeps are even cheaper than JDM.

 

Taper bearings will be ordered soon for the XJ550 rebuild.
What's a typical upgrade jet size for the 550? I'm going with original to get it ready for a title app first, but want to plan ahead.

 

Most bikes of the era were jetted slightly lean from the factory. They will obviously perform just fine as equipped but if you look at the carb specs for the US market machines versus the ones shipped to Canada or elsewhere they are different. I plan to go only one size bigger on the main and possibly up to 2 sizes bigger on the pilot. Mostly because my pilot mix screws are out further than I'd like(and according to the colortune), I suspect due to the modified exhaust I have.

 

Took the Maxim out for the first ride of the year. Primed the bowls and tried the starter. Cranked and cranked. Acted like it wanted to catch a few times. Figured I flooded it. Pulled the plugs (they were black/sooty and smelled slightly of fuel) cleaned them off and reinstalled. Bike started within 15 seconds. Ran a little rough for the first 30 seconds and then smoothed out. Took it out for a good hour and ran like a top the whole time. My bike just does not like to sit for any extended time whatsoever. I have a feeling its running a little on the rich side. I just need to convince someone to do a little carb clinic in my neck of the woods lol. It's good to be riding again!

 

Ordered the parts I need to replace steering bearings and rebuild the forks. I'm betting XJ4Ever gets the parts to me before I can get my garage door open (thaw + freezing rain = door frozen shut).

Can't even bring home the new-to-me fjr1300 I picked up last weekend.

 

Hi there. I am new here.

 

Hi welcome which bike do you have?

 

the parts are already sitting on your bench now you need to get the door open

 

Welcome aboard! Don't worry about them, they're all nuts. I'm sane and will be looking after you Cheers!
PS: Wouldn't happen to have a right side muffler for an '84 XJ750RL would ya?

 

60 MPH wind gusts kept me from doing a thing with her.
At least Spring is here, finally.

 

Checked valve clearances and snapped a valve cover bolt off tightening it back up. Tomorrow will be fun. Anybody have any advice?

 

Don't wring off the stub with pliers. If it won't come out easy, don't force it. I usually just TIG weld a ball on the top and use that. If you can't do that or there is not enough screw exposed you will have to pull the head. You can try a left-hand drill bit but I would let a machine shop do it.

 

Don't do that?


How far down is the break?
Which bolt position?

Can you sneak the valve cover back off to get at the stub?

 

I went for a short 30min ride in the sun.
and now I know that the speedometer is not working right. Top gear at 4000 rpm said I was going 40mph.

repeat the mantra .... it's a 37 year old bike, what did you expect

 

This weather is Bi Polar ...it just will not give up, this high winds make it colder than it is . To the xj family PLEASE be careful after our extended long winter , already heard on radio a motorcyclist was killed hit by a car not seeing ridder be aware of chuck holes and loose sand and gravel and idiot drivers .( know you already do this but good to remind you lol) I care for all of us !!! Cheers

 

It was broken inside the cylinder head. I'm sure everyone thinks this, but it had to have been the bolt. I know I didn't over torque it. Drilled and extracted it today and it came out like butter. First time ever using an extractor. I'm pretty sure the bleeder screw that was broken off when I bought it won't be as pleasant an experience.

I also changed the oil and filter today.

 

I believe you. If the bolt wasn't the problem you would have either stripped the threads out or cracked the head. Shuldered bolts can tend to have a stress riser at the thread root next to the shoulder.

 

I like to put a notch in my belt when I successfully remove a seized or broken off fastener from alum.

 

Speaking of alum (the spice).
A service to those who don't know.
dissolving-broken-bolt-with-alum.110415

 

If I have to resort to dissolving the screw I will just drill it out and put in a Time-Sert.

You should check out the sway bar adapter torture test I did on my genesis coupe subframe adapter thread inserts. CNC 6061 and I install 20mm SS Time-Serts for the sway bar to bolt to. If you ever were concerned about strength of a SS time-sert in aluminum;

 

Dissolution is a good option for people who aren't experienced with precision drilling, or for fasteners that would require more disassembly to access with a drill.
No commentary about you, just seemed like a good opportunity to remind people about it.

 

I got my replacement lens for the Turbo. I fixed the last bit of damage from an earthquake in November caused a ton of crap to land on it in the garage.

 

Buttoned a few covers back up and slapped the head on the 550 motor so I could degrease the crank case bits. Shop crane tipped on me rolling out to the driveway and dropped it on the driveway. Luckily it was low but still managed to smack a corner of the oil pan and broke off a few oil filter cover fins. Nice solid thud. No case cracks that I can see. Might need a new pan. Hope not because I just glued that one on with a new gasket.

 

Recently as in last week had my xj700x seat recovered and in doing so I had a gel pad put in.
Got it back and went for 100 +- ride and was pleased with the result. I will upload photos later today or tomorrow.
Will also be taking the passenger seat in today to have the same operation done lol. not ad 300 bucks for both.

 

Put in a new starter relay.Fire in the hole,she runs again,ready to ride.

1985 Maxim-X XJ-750 XNC 20,00 KM's.

 

Pulled both muffles as they are shot. Still looking for another set and or 4 into 1.

 

Finally made some progress on spring maintenance items. Right now fork seals and tapered neck bearings. Carbs are off currently as well for some rejetting and adjusting/checking over.

 

Got into the bike shed finally! Got the Triumph started right away, it's fuel injected, but the XJ didn't want to go. I let the battery charge an hour then finally got it started and he ran like shit! Absolutely terrible, I could barely keep it running. I shut him down and put the charge back on. Had to head to work so tomorrow I'll see if I can figure out why Brother Seca is running so rough.

 

Did you run it dry before you put it up?

 

Did you put any Stabil in tank ? I run a 50/50 mix of stabil and marvel mystery oil to full tank ,let it run thru , and run it a few times over winter till engine heats up , a week ago pulled bike out , rode around the block a few times , ran great.

 

I didn't run it dry.

I filled the tank and put stabilizer in then took if for a ride to get it through the system. I did the same last year and all was great.

 

Mounted headlight today.

 

You should always run it dry until the carbs empty out for storage. Otherwise you'll end up with sticky carb bits, horrible idle and all kinds of throttle fun.

 

Damn, so what's the solution to screwing up the winter storage?

 

Clean the carbs probably. Let it run a bit if you can, even on full choke, and see if it will clear up. If not, I'd start with pulling the carb bowls and checking jets, floats and needle/seats. All 4-stroke and 2-stroke small engines should be run dry if you do not plan on running them for several months. Unless, you enjoy carb cleaning.

 

I knew you were going to say that! It's gonna be the beginning of a lot of work I have to do on Brother Seca. That's why I bought the Sprint ST, I'm gonna need a bike to ride while it's in pieces and I'm figuring how to get the body work painted correctly. I'm planning on going with the stock paint job, but I'm debating taking off the engine guards and putting on the belly spoiler I have from the 750S. Either way it'll be looking good when done. Hello spring, welcome back!

 

Replaced the fuel line and installed an inline fuel filter. Also determined the bolt to my oil filter case is FUBAR so I'm stepping away before the neighbors report a crazy man screaming obscenities at a bike.

 

Threads or head?

 

You are not the first with this issue.
There are various threads on best way to extract that bugger.
Before you begin, order the aftermarket one with the larger hex head to install.

 

Head. It's so buggered and rounded I can spin an 11mm around it relatively freely (It was originally 12mm I believe).

Once I get this off I'm converting over to spin-ons. Currently trying to source a dremel or angle grinder to grind it down. Vice grips were just chewing it up and for awhile I was able to hammer on a 11mm spanner but couldn't get it to budge.

 

Mig weld a bolt onto the tip? Try cinching it tight just a tad and then back off with the vice grips. I've also had luck with using a small pipe wrench when things get that bad.

 

I keep one of these lil guys around for naughty bolts.
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-steel-pipe-wrench-39641.html
I prevail either by releasing the threads or releasing the head from the shank. LOL

 

No welding equipment/experience to speak of but the pipe wrench might be a quicker fix than grinding everything down til it pops. Thanks!

 

Both my girls passed their NYS inspection today. 2019 riding season, here we come!

 

Update: I did it! I finally got the f***ing oil filter loose. Reluctant shout out to Harbor Freight.

Standard socket failed, hammering on 11mm spanner failed, vise grips failed, chisel and hammer failed, and pipe wrench failed.

Went to Harbor Freight and picked up a 9 piece bolt extractor set (24.99 I believe), and immediately worked (did use the 11mm bit rather than the 12mm due to how shredded it was)

It's 8:30pm and I'm living in an apartment so that will be the extent of it today, but I think this may be the most satisfaction I've gotten from my bike (stationary) to date. Spin-on conversion to follow. If anyone else has this issue, please try to cheapo Harbor Freight option, it's cheap and it actually worked.

Victory beers to follow.