Dads 83 XJ650

Hey guys as the title suggest I've gotten my dads 83 xj650 (Canada model). It last ran when he put it in dry storage what he says was 4 years ago ( I think its been like 10 years). Got the Haynes manual and have been working on it for a little bit. I had to rebuild the starter button before it would turn over. Then when started it would only idle for a min with choke and starter fluid. Installed a new ATO fuse box, cleaned the carb, changed some needles and jets with like for like replacements but she was clean and I was happy (I might be a sinner in the church of clean) . Other photos I've seen on this sub looked similar in cleanliness. I adjusted the idle mixture screws to 3 turns out from seated. I put new fuel intake boots on as I was able to easily remove the bolts (read some people have issues with these) tightened to 7.2 lbs. Benched synced the butterflies. This morning I started the bike after installing the carbs, she didn't start on the first try and I used the started fluid. The bike would run with full choke and bog down without it for the first min, till it would idle. The idle revs up very high leading me to believe there is an air leak, but she is running off fuel and not needing full choke now. I didn't put the vacuum hose back on #3 boot, would this be causing the high rev and if so what should I run the vacuum hose to, as the tank is off and petcock removed. It revs up high enough on idle for me to be concerned and use the kill switch, it about 4000 - 5000 rpm. Just looking for advice and will probably post when I get stumped and what I find fixes my issues. This is my first bike and I'm not very experienced when it comes to carbs, fuel mixtures and engines so sorry if I make obvious mistakes. Thanks for reading!

 

For some reason I can edit the above post cause it says its spam like or contains inappropriate elements?

Anyways like I said I am new to this. I adjusted the idle screw and its sitting about 1200 now. Will have to check recommended rpm from manual. Have to tune based on spark color as I don't have access to a colortube.

 

The hose to from the number three cylinder goes to the vacuum port on the petcock , if you still have it that is. The port needs plugged.

 

Dont mind the mess



If I want to order parts from xj4ever do I message chacal? I am just trying to get this bike road worthy to ride this summer and may do an overhaul in the winter.

 

info@xj4ever.com is how you contact @chacal

 

If you have an aftermarket petcock that does not need the vacuum line, you must somehow plug the line before doing any tuning whatsoever. Some use a golf tee shoved into the line.

 

A more elegant solution is to go to an auto parts store and get their little "Help!" kit of vacuum caps, and put one of those caps on the port of the carb holder.

 

Correct, for a more permanent solution (for riding).

 

Thanks guys. I've got the original petcock.
So some up coming stuff I've got to do for the bike

Install new seals on the forks
Will i be able to use a 19mm hex with extentions as the damping rod tool, I can make the tool but would rather not. Will new seals and oil be enough or will I need other parts for the forks.

Service break peddle
The break peddle does not lift back fully when depressed leaving the break slightly on. Will simply cleaning the pedal and reinstalling it work, or is there something I should be looking for.

Remove gas tank rust
I was looking at using the vinegar and salt method with aquarium rocks for abrasion Followed by electrolysis and a marvel mystery oil rinse followed by a gas rinse.

Currently the left signal is only illuminating solid when engaged, it did signal properly on other tests?

Any help is appreciated, I can grab pictures of anything on the bike if anyone wants.

 

Suggestion, when you clean the tank, instead of aquarium rocks, use #8 by 3/4 wood screws, you will find them MUCH easier to remove, they are magnetic and you can use a stick magnet to remove them.
The rocks don't shake out that easy.

 

19mm hex for damping tool I am sure that is correct. Check the fork bushes worth replacing I don't think they are expensive. It is a drum brake so the lever on the drum is activated by the pedal via the adjustable rod. The bar that goes through the plate that fits into the drum and carries the shoes needs greased, and the pin the brake pedal is connected to needs greased. Push the lever forward which operates the brake shoes. It should return under the tension of the brake shoe springs.

 

More than likely the rear brake shoes are original and need servicing, the below link illustrates it can be a serious safety issue:

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...r-brake-bike-owners-please-take-a-look.15874/

Yours may just need some grease, but if you know those are original or don't know they have been changed then it's worth taking a look

 

I've gotten most of my steps done. Gas tank is mostly clean expect for some flash rust. Rear break pads changed, inspected drum and greased pedal lever. New tires mounted. One front fork removed. The bottom damper rod allen key will not budge. Its been hit with some heat and penetrate to no avail. Tried the torque gun despite being scared of stripping it didn't strip but it didn't budge. I have a extension with a 19mm hex in the rod but it wont turn either. I might try to bolt it to a board tomorrow but the torque gun did give it a good brap. I have the air ride forks. Any tips on getting this bolt out?


Also I cant post a lot of the time cause it keep saying spam, I cant post a picture of the fork taken apart

PPS the oil filter below the large o ring is to small that come with it >:|

 

I got mine out with an Allen key socket and a breaker bar. Where possible use your bike like a vice by slackening bolts with the part still on the bike.

 

I've got the hex socket and I've got a big breaker bar, normally the impact gun breaks bolts better, I think the guns like 250 or 350 lbs . I am going to try and heat it some more and might put it in a board to help stiffen it and try my various methods. I was reading the factory or serivce might loctite this bolt, should I on the reinstall?

 

I just torqued my damper bolt to spec, l have a 900f. You can use Loctite if you want but the bolt cannot go anywhere and it should not slacken. My Haynes manual does not mention using Loctite on the damper bolt.

If you do use thread locker use the blue stuff.

 

Sometime you got to be creative.

 

Hey Guys I've almost got it all buttoned up. The forks and everything seem straight but I would like to align my forks doing the bouncing thing, the video I found said I also need to undo the top center yoke? I thought I read somewhere else to do it you had the bottom loose ish, such as the ; axle, fender, axle pinch, the caliper swivel, and lower yoke pinches all loose. With the top yoke pinches tight lower from the stands/center stand, then bounce weight up and down on the front. Then tighten the lower yokes and everything else?

I am getting pretty close to being ready to ride. Just dealing with getting it papered now
Thanks again for the help!

 

Also can anyone tell me the brake line lengths and Bango size and angle for my xj650 LH
I could take them out later and measure but would like to order asap. Check my brake line dates and they are bad.

Would a 110cm brake line with 28 degree bangos work? I've seen other posts saying 30 or 35 degree