XJ650 Carburetor rebuild kit

Does anyone have a recommendation for a full rebuild kit that includes the jets and proper floats? (1982 XJ650 Maxim)

I tried fleabay and scamazon without any success.

 

Is that for a Mikuni carb?

This is covered many times, you don't need all that brass. reuse the brass you have after cleaning it up and what you need is:
Bowl gaskets (get kit with paper gaskets)
Float Needle
O ring for the mix screw
6 O rings for cross tubes (I use the Viton kit from Harbor Freight)
8 Vacuum seals (xj4ever) or get Suzuki 13651-51011 from partzilla


I will give my personal opinion that does not match other people's.
BEST bowl gasket is from xj4ever.
I don't like the xj4ever needle. I like the one with 2 wires from each side and the gap at the wire is smaller. xj4ever one is a single wire and the gap is rather big. Just personal preference and that is just maybe me. I think I get something from ebay and JUST use that needle and the O ring for the mix screw

If you just get everything from xj4ever you can't go wrong and he suppports his product. Ebay/Amazon can be a crap shoot and you really gotta know what to use and what not to use..

 

I love the xj4ever needles (but, I am biased!).

The only purpose that the hanger clips provides (on rubber-tipped needles; on all metal-tipped needles, there is no hanger clip) is to allow the weight of the float to pull down on the needle in case of needle seizure within the brass seat. Typically, this will occur if an engine has not been operated in quite some time, and some fuel residue is turning into an adhesive-type substance that holds the needle in a closed (or near-closed) position. It is designed so that, if the carb bowl is empty of fuel, then the floats will drop down (obviously) and the weight of these floats pulling down on the needle (via that clip) will free the needle from its sticky prison........

So really, the "clearance" of the clip to the tang on the float arm makes no real difference, as the floats (without fuel in the bowl) have quite a bit of travel, and will pull the needle free (if it can, depending on how badly stuck it is.....).

Note that in "normal" operation, this clip (and its interaction with the float arm) makes absolutely no difference; the float will go up and down, and the needle will follow the float and the needle will fall down under the influence of both incoming fuel "pressure" and due to gravity.

Metal-tipped needles----stock on many Mikuni carbs, and optional for Hitachi carbs----don't have nor need a clip as they almost never seize (unless the engine hasn't been operated in a long, long time, and the fuel residue has crystallized, in which case no clip is going to help un-seize a needle stuck that badly....think of the crud in the starter jet passage, for instance). SOME aftermarket RUBBER-tipped needles are made of a rubber material that is not really suitable for use with E-85 (ethanol-laced) fuel, and the rubber tip can swell and seize even if operated regularly. In this case, a change of fuels or a change to metal-tipped needles is the real solution.....the clip is a bandaid that will eventually be overcome by the swollen rubber.

 

And ^that^ is why buying from Len is the best way to save frustration and money.

 

Thank you all for your responses.

I find this forum pretty difficult to navigate, can anyone help me out with links?