converting lights to LED

Outstanding.
I'd love to have an illustrated version of this Re-lamping w/ LED's Tutorial.
The narrative makes it sound too simple to me.
There has to be quite a lot of finesse involved to get the spacing right and the LED's directed at the center of the instrument from the perimeter of the gauge.

But, the end result is quite dramatic and I do like it quite a lot.

Another reason why the ingenuity of the members of this site amaze me!

 

Sno,

I think woot and 2fast answered your question but, the dash lights in my opinion would definately need to be "Superbrite" as any other low voltage led's seem to be lacking lumens or candella.

As for the turns, I changed over to led units(aftermarket) and changed out the flasher to an electronic and am living without a cancelling unit and a warning on my dash. It's a small price to pay for the power reduction.

 

I have been riding with front and back LED signals for 2 years now. They did not flash when first connected but 15 bucks and a load equalizer from the cycle shop cured that quick. I have not noticed any problem in the elctrical system since that time and my bike starts tip top. Easy to install and way better than a hundred dollar flasher/cancel unit. Well it was for me, I don't always have a hundred bucks. I also run 2 LED running lights on the tail end. Please don't twist connect the new lights!!! Take the time to solder... you'll save yourself hassle later. good luck.

 

ok now, this seems like a lot of trouble for leds. but basically, i need 1157 bulbs for the tail and/or 1156 bulbs for the turn signals in amber or red (whichever is applicable), and either a load equalizer/ load transistor or a blinking module so i can have blinking signals, taillight leds. is that all correct?
wow this is a long post to read in one sitting.

 

After doing a fair amount of research last year on just this subject I came to the conclusion that you can use a microcontroller, some added parts, and some custom programming to replace the auto-canceling turn-signal relay and eliminate the load resistors and other such devices. The problem is that I have yet to come up with a good program and circuit. (Between time eaten by work and our recent house purchase everything in that arena has been put on hold for quite some time now.)

It _is_ possible but you'll be spending the required $100 in parts no matter what direction you take to replace the auto-cancel unit. Regardless I'll still keep working on the problem when I can because I want to get rid of those large gold resistors under my seat.

 

I'm experimenting with CMOS 555 timers right now. They will handle the Vcc and can be rigged to run a astable state for a given period. Why not convert to this?

 

Wow, lots of info in this mega-thread. am copying a query from another thread; fits better here...

Electronic/LED lights sound good; most likely will be changing later. But it's great riding weather so right now want brighter headlight on stock circuit. Advice?

(Halogen is fine but not if I have to also take time now for additional conversions.)

Thanks for any help

 

i am looking at replacing my lights with led i got the numbers for the dash
but when i get to the tailight and license plate lights i am not sure for the taillight there are 12,15,24,and 30 led bulbs i assume 30 would be best but would i save any watts over the stock light
i am also trying to get some running lights on this bike but i need to free up some wattage to get them on there hence the led conversion

 

Because when it comes down to it I'm a sucker for punishment and can't let an idea go easily.

That and you can't attach an accelerometer to a 555 timer. ;-D

I'm still re-organizing from the move but the upside is that now I have a full garage space to set up in so I'll get to more of these projects. I'd love to roll my own speed-sensitive audio amp but that's yet another thing on the back burner at the moment.

 

True, but you can use an A/D converter with an encoder and AND those signals together to get your distance and timing inputs to control the flasher. I haven't quite worked out the logic on it yet but it is do-able.
Hope you get settled in easily. Moving sucks.

 

Has anyone looked into changing the headlight to Super Bright LEDs??

 

I thought about the issues with that and it _could_ be done but you're going to have to construct a complete housing the same size as a round (or square) sealed bulb with said reflector to allow the beam to spread properly.

Second I'm not sure if the beam in question would meet the distance requirements for DOT.

Third and last - LEDs in the quantity you propose would likely use less voltage overall but MORE current. Check into it - it's true. To regulate that many LEDs that are in _constant_ use almost requires a good switching power supply. Also super-bright LEDs actually put out a fair amount of heat and they _do_ burn out over time. Granted not as fast as normal bulbs but still on the edge of consumability. Especially if they are cheaply produced.

The technology is there but in its infancy. I'm not gonna tell you to not try it because hell I've done a bunch of things people told me wouldn't be worthwhile but my advice is wait about 2 years and consider the project again.

 

Doesn't Canadian Tire, NAPA, etc., sell replacement LED's for different stock signal/tail lights? Would that not be an easier option than all of the additional wiring detailed in the thread?

 

Those bulbs are sold many places but due to the size/current requirements for making the mechanical/thermal flashers work they are unlikely to include the necessary load resistors. They're fine if you've got an electronic flasher though.

 

I've been thinking of moving over to LED's on my 83 Maxim for the tail light and front/rear signals...would that be mechanical or electrical?

 

The brake/tail light bulbs should be able to be replaced with LED bulbs without modification.

The turn signals need one of two things done.

Either:

1) Replace the old mechanical/thermal flasher with an electronic one. (Losing the auto-cancel in the process.)

or

2) Add large wattage resistors in series with the new LED turn signals so that they draw the correct amount of current to properly activate the mechanical/thermal flasher. (These resistors are also sold as an assembly online but sometimes if you know how to solder/crimp you can get the resistors cheaper individually.)

 

I have an 83 XJ750 Maxim and the turn signals are round. Will this LED mod work? I can go back through the thread and find all the parts required but does someone have the complete list of parts required and where to get them?

Thanks to all the dedicated people that like to experiment.
Joe
XJs Forever

 

Physical shape/size of the turn signals _does_ _not_ _matter_. Period. What matters is only if you have an electronic or a mechanical flasher.

Mechanical flashers and LED lights require load resistors. If you poke through either this thread or search the forums you'll find notes about what resistors to use.

 

Just a thought.
The reason to go with LED's is to lower the amps pulled.
If you insert resistors inline then aren't you defeating the purpose?

 

Yes and no. The response time for LEDs is much faster and can help quite a bit in an emergency situation so you gain that much. But yes if you want power reduction you'll have to go with an electronic flasher and lose the auto-cancel.