14a Fuse in ignition

So after fighting some engine battles with this bike I finally got it running. Its a 1982 Xj750j. When I first went to fire up the bike I stuck the fuses back in the fuse box. Tried to start it up, starter didnt even click. I opened the fuse box back up wondering if I blew something and I didnt. All the fuses were right except for the signal, it had a 14a fuse. These were the fuses that came with the bike. I swapped ignition with signal out of curiosity. The bike turned right over and ran well. On the maiden voyage, I was easy on the throttle. About 5 mins into the ride I started to climb a hill, downshifted into 2nd gear, and gassed it. Once the rpms hit around 5.5-6k, the headlight shut off. I blew the headlight fuse. I had to pullover and sacrifice my signals and dash for the ride home. Im curious if this fuse blew because of something related to the reason it only runs with a 14 in the ignition. The battery is a 12v but only 12ah which I know the owners manual says 14ah required. Any insight is appreciated

 

correction 30 amp main fuse
10 amp for the other 3 fuses

battery charges through the main fuse
you should get the correct battery.

any extra lights on the bike?

still have the original fuse box with glass fuses

 

Original fuse box. No extra lights. 30a main fuse is what it takes, the fuse box and owners manual say so, I guess I’ll start with a new battery

 

I doubt it is your battery unless the main fuse was the one blowing.
could be the fuse box I would change it to a new box or inline fuse holders.
the fuse clips get brittle and crusty the additional resistance will cause extra current draw.

start by replacing the headlight fuse with an inline fuse see if the issue goes away.
I would also look in the headlight bucket to see if a wire has been trapped or cut open .
always look where you did work rule applies here. you did open the bucket.

 

Replace fuse box with a 4 -6 fuse block from Napa.....then use 30 amp msin fuse.....10 amp fuse for the other 3

 

To clarify. I already have a 30a main. When there is a 10 in ignition nothing happens, starter won’t click only works with 14 in ignition spot

 

Is it a clear tube fuse or white. Does it blow the 10A when it is in ignition circuit?

 

14A fuse....very odd fuse to me

 

Something is wrong then. Since you have the original fusebox it's likely that the clips are cracked and only providing contact when you move them as you change fuses, or the 10A fuse you have is blown (you can't always tell by just looking because of the metal caps blocking part of the filament from view).
Upping the amperage will have no effect other than making it more likely for the wires to catch fire when they draw an excessive amount of current for their rating.

 

So they are the clear fuses. I have multiple. Replaced all the old ones now. Nothing blows when I put a 10 a in ignition. The starter just doesnt even click! There has to be a 14a in ignition in order for the starter to work. Also k-moe, if the 10a fuses I had were blown, no lights would work, neither would the signals when I swapped fuses. The fuses are fine and not blown. It does blow the headlight when I get into high rpms. I have multiple replacements. Im going to take it for a longer ride today and see how it goes.

 

Sounds like your voltage regulator may be acting up?

 

The starter probably needs new brushes.

 

fuse size is not the issue
see what the voltage is at the battery at 2k rpm then 3 k rpm

 

is the 14 amp fuse longer than 10 amp fuse?
do you have a meter , test probe? it is time to chase voltage.
also make one of these set ups
put a 10 amp fuse in it and hook it to the crimps of the clips at the wires

pull fuse and use meter to see if you have voltage at input of fuse again at crimp then install fuse test at both fuse ends then output crimp.

key switch supplies voltage to the fuse which supplies voltage goes to run/kill switch (make sure it is on) then to the starter cutoff relay and side stand relay .
when you turn on the key with bike in neutral you should hear both relays click.
if both relays work as they are supposed to you should be able to measure voltage at the red/white wire at the connector to the solenoid do you get 12 volts at this wire?

if you do unplug connector to solenoid, hook meter to battery and to blue wire in the harness connector for the solenoid. press starter button see if you get 12 volts.
you may need to clean starter switch.

if you get 12 volts in the button test reconnect the connector, hook meter to battery negative the other end to the starter wire connection on the solenoid press starter button do you get 12 volts? if not your solenoid is bad.
I just replaced the solenoid on my xj750j some times it would work some times it would not when button pressed replaced solenoid starter works every time.